ᐅ Floor Plan Optimization for Urban Villa + Considerations for Land Elevation
Created on: 31 Jan 2020 13:29
S
Shiny86
Plot size 492 sqm (5293 sq ft)
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?
Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage
House design
Who designed it?
-Architect
What do you particularly like? Why?
Large living area, master bathroom
What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large
Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes
What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
What do you think about the floor plans?
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?
Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage
House design
Who designed it?
-Architect
What do you particularly like? Why?
Large living area, master bathroom
What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large
Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes
What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
- Where could it still be optimized? Would you recommend different window dimensions or sill heights?
- What do you think is poor or what would you do differently?
- A partition wall will be added in the walk-in closet. That would theoretically allow watching TV from the bed. I am considering a lightweight wall. I plan to place a 211cm (83 inches) Pax combination wardrobe in the closet. The closet is planned with a raw width of 218cm (86 inches). Do you think 218cm is enough for the Pax once the walls are plastered, or how wide should the rough dimensions preferably be?
- Is the hallway on the ground floor too narrow?
- Would you raise the ground level? The house would be 40cm (16 inches) below street level. If I build a terrace into the garden, it would be about 1m (3 ft) difference. You could raise only the house level, resulting in approximately 1.6m (5 ft) difference between terrace and garden. I don’t know anyone living below street level. Raising the garden would probably not be allowed without permits, and affected neighbors likely wouldn’t agree. On the sides of the house adjacent to neighbors, raising is permitted only up to certain limits. I am overwhelmed with the decision.
- Do you have any ideas for arranging the sofa differently and placing the TV sensibly? My husband doesn’t want the sofa back facing a window. I still need to get used to placing the sofa in the middle of the room.
- Is the kitchen size sufficient for a nice kitchen with an island?
What do you think about the floor plans?
Going through the rough construction phase with the electrician is too late because the upper floor structure relies on the ground floor ceiling. Without controlled residential ventilation and if standard electrical work means having an outlet for a ceiling lamp in the center of the room, that might be acceptable—but otherwise, not really considered adequate today.
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11ant schrieb:
It’s too late to review with the electrician once the shell of the upper floor is complete because the upper floor structure rests on the ceiling of the ground floor. Without a mechanical ventilation system and if by basic electrical work you mean just having a ceiling outlet for a central light fixture, then that’s possible—but otherwise, not really practical nowadays.Well, that’s exactly what we did. However, beforehand we discussed with the electrician where the ceiling penetrations would be. I guess that’s what you’re getting at?I had assumed that based on the floor plan, a design would be presented and you would just add any special requests. That’s why I’m asking if the furniture layout in the floor plan is important.
Why is it no longer possible to plan much due to ceiling openings? @11ant could you explain this in more detail? Is it because nowadays it’s not done anymore, since you then lose flexibility with the lighting outlets?
I’m always worried about missing some important decision somewhere.
For example, if I want to have lighting in the garden shed later on, should I mention that before the groundwork for empty conduits, or only during the electrical planning with the electrician?
Or if I’m planning an awning… should I take care of this during the electrical planning or already before the shell construction, so it can be taken into account somehow?
Why is it no longer possible to plan much due to ceiling openings? @11ant could you explain this in more detail? Is it because nowadays it’s not done anymore, since you then lose flexibility with the lighting outlets?
I’m always worried about missing some important decision somewhere.
For example, if I want to have lighting in the garden shed later on, should I mention that before the groundwork for empty conduits, or only during the electrical planning with the electrician?
Or if I’m planning an awning… should I take care of this during the electrical planning or already before the shell construction, so it can be taken into account somehow?
Tarnari schrieb:
However, it was discussed in advance with the electrician where the ceiling openings would be. You probably want to get to that point? Basically, yes. Once the recesses for ceiling spotlights, etc., are settled and the wiring runs to all rooms, details like the exact positions of switches and outlets can of course be clarified later on at the shell stage. At this planning level, it’s fine to "wait" (and understandably preferred from a tradesperson’s perspective, especially since first-time homeowners usually only develop a realistic 3D, full-scale understanding on site and would likely want to change everything multiple times if discussed earlier).
Shiny86 schrieb:
I was actually thinking that you get presented with a plan based on the floor plan and just add any special requests. That’s why I asked whether the furniture layout in the floor plan is important. Why can’t you plan much more because of the ceiling openings? @11ant, could you explain? Is it because nowadays this is no longer done and you lose flexibility with lamp outlets? A lighting inventory drawn into the floor plan is an extra service and is typically done by a specialized “lighting planner.” If you have a basic contract without extras, you won’t get such detailed visualization—instead, a specified number of fixtures per the building specifications are roughly placed somewhere according to the electrician’s current workload. A ceiling light has a ceiling outlet, and if you want to place it somewhere else, the wiring is extended — but ceiling spots need to be planned in advance before the concrete ceiling is poured. I’m not referring to the ceiling openings (CO) in the design drawings, but rather to the mixed bundle of ventilation pipes, heating pipes, and cables routed through those openings, which nowadays require more complex planning tools and coordination than in a low-tech house from the 1970s.
Shiny86 schrieb:
For example, if I want lighting later in the garden house, should I mention that before groundwork for empty conduits / ducting, or only during electrical planning with the electrician?
Or if I plan a sunshade (awning)... do I wait until electrical planning, or mention it before the shell is built so it can be considered somehow? You should discuss underground empty conduits well before the electrician comes on site. Also, installing a sunshade in an energy-efficient house with external insulation (ETICS) and a cable entry that meets airtightness requirements is no easy task to be sorted casually while someone else sets up the barbecue. You really ask refreshingly good questions.
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A
Alessandro5 Oct 2020 07:49For the electrician, the kitchen layout is usually the only important detail in advance, especially if you want a kitchen island.
When it comes to ceiling outlets, they will drill the hole exactly where you want it.
However, if you plan to install recessed spotlights (halogen sockets), both the electrician and your builder will need the exact positions beforehand.
Everything else is typically marked on the walls during the on-site measurement.
You obviously need to be clear about which devices you want to control from which positions. For example, if you want to control the lights from your bed, you will need the bed’s dimensions and exact location.
It’s better to plan for one power outlet too many than too few.
Think, for example, about vacuuming. If you have a cordless vacuum cleaner, consider a power outlet for the charging station, which is usually installed at about 1.5m (5 feet) height (the device where you clip the vacuum cleaner in).
Also, think about Christmas lights or decoration on the window sill (an outlet in the window reveal).
You should also consider an electric vehicle (EV) charging station or at least have it prepared. The same applies to a future photovoltaic system or satellite dish. The cables cost very little but should already be run up to the attic.
Consider underground cables for outdoor areas (I have one on every side of my house).
A high-current power supply (such as a 3-phase connection) is also recommended. You will need this at the latest when the plasterers arrive.
It’s best to mentally go through the floor plan and ask yourself from where you want to control which lights.
For example, when you go upstairs before going to bed, you don’t want to have to go back to the living room or dining room just to turn off the lights there.
When it comes to ceiling outlets, they will drill the hole exactly where you want it.
However, if you plan to install recessed spotlights (halogen sockets), both the electrician and your builder will need the exact positions beforehand.
Everything else is typically marked on the walls during the on-site measurement.
You obviously need to be clear about which devices you want to control from which positions. For example, if you want to control the lights from your bed, you will need the bed’s dimensions and exact location.
It’s better to plan for one power outlet too many than too few.
Think, for example, about vacuuming. If you have a cordless vacuum cleaner, consider a power outlet for the charging station, which is usually installed at about 1.5m (5 feet) height (the device where you clip the vacuum cleaner in).
Also, think about Christmas lights or decoration on the window sill (an outlet in the window reveal).
You should also consider an electric vehicle (EV) charging station or at least have it prepared. The same applies to a future photovoltaic system or satellite dish. The cables cost very little but should already be run up to the attic.
Consider underground cables for outdoor areas (I have one on every side of my house).
A high-current power supply (such as a 3-phase connection) is also recommended. You will need this at the latest when the plasterers arrive.
It’s best to mentally go through the floor plan and ask yourself from where you want to control which lights.
For example, when you go upstairs before going to bed, you don’t want to have to go back to the living room or dining room just to turn off the lights there.
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