Hello, I am looking for a solution to a tiling problem.
I want to install new tiles (slate) myself in my 30-year-old house.
The tiles measure 40 x 60 cm (16 x 24 inches) and are to be laid on the floor in a third-bond pattern.
In the old tiles, there are three movement joints in the middle of the room.
The room has a U-shape. The old tiles will be removed down to the screed.
The room has underfloor heating.
Two of the joints run perpendicular to the tile pattern.
Problem: movement joints running straight across the third-bond tile pattern.
My idea is to bond a thin waterproofing membrane with silicone over the movement joints directly onto the screed.
I would grind (mill) the screed slightly in the 1–2 mm (0.04–0.08 inch) area where the movement joint will be covered to avoid any raised areas.
After laying the tiles on the waterproofing membrane using C2FT S1 tile adhesive, I would cut through the membrane again along the tile joints near the movement joint.
My hope is that this approach will transfer the straight movement joint to the zigzag (third-bond) movement joint of the tiles.
The tiles spanning the movement joint in the screed would then “float” on a thin silicone bedding.
What are the possible disadvantages of this method, apart from the shear forces in the movement joint that might not be properly absorbed in the tile joint?
Are there any other alternatives to covering the entire floor with expensive uncoupling mats?
I appreciate any constructive feedback.
I want to install new tiles (slate) myself in my 30-year-old house.
The tiles measure 40 x 60 cm (16 x 24 inches) and are to be laid on the floor in a third-bond pattern.
In the old tiles, there are three movement joints in the middle of the room.
The room has a U-shape. The old tiles will be removed down to the screed.
The room has underfloor heating.
Two of the joints run perpendicular to the tile pattern.
Problem: movement joints running straight across the third-bond tile pattern.
My idea is to bond a thin waterproofing membrane with silicone over the movement joints directly onto the screed.
I would grind (mill) the screed slightly in the 1–2 mm (0.04–0.08 inch) area where the movement joint will be covered to avoid any raised areas.
After laying the tiles on the waterproofing membrane using C2FT S1 tile adhesive, I would cut through the membrane again along the tile joints near the movement joint.
My hope is that this approach will transfer the straight movement joint to the zigzag (third-bond) movement joint of the tiles.
The tiles spanning the movement joint in the screed would then “float” on a thin silicone bedding.
What are the possible disadvantages of this method, apart from the shear forces in the movement joint that might not be properly absorbed in the tile joint?
Are there any other alternatives to covering the entire floor with expensive uncoupling mats?
I appreciate any constructive feedback.
I want to lay the tiles parallel to the central wall.
That means placing the longer side of the tile from left to right.
The room should appear longer from left to right.
Or is that a mistaken assumption?
No sliding door.
I could also keep the small joint (about 2m (6.5 ft)) as it is.
That means placing the longer side of the tile from left to right.
The room should appear longer from left to right.
Or is that a mistaken assumption?
No sliding door.
I could also keep the small joint (about 2m (6.5 ft)) as it is.
I am also considering stabilizing the top and bottom expansion joints with epoxy and fiberglass lamination, but even if I only keep the middle (small) expansion joint, I still have an area of 51.5m² (555 sq ft) without an expansion joint. How can I incorporate an expansion joint into the tile layout?
As an electrician, I also sometimes say:
- Electricity can’t just jump...
- We’ll just have to cut open the wall...
- If you want it to look better, it’s going to get really expensive...
But as my own builder, I want a good solution that costs nothing and doesn’t require repairs every two years (every ten years would be acceptable).
As an electrician, I also sometimes say:
- Electricity can’t just jump...
- We’ll just have to cut open the wall...
- If you want it to look better, it’s going to get really expensive...
But as my own builder, I want a good solution that costs nothing and doesn’t require repairs every two years (every ten years would be acceptable).
What does the wall, or cutting into it, have to do with this? I don’t understand.
Why do you want to lay it parallel to the wall? Is it because you think it looks better visually in a narrow room, or do you believe it’s technically easier or that tiling will be simpler that way?
Why do you want to lay it parallel to the wall? Is it because you think it looks better visually in a narrow room, or do you believe it’s technically easier or that tiling will be simpler that way?
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