Hello everyone,
I have another question that’s been on my mind. We are currently having a semi-detached house built through a developer. On the top floor, there is currently a knee wall with a rough construction height of 50 cm (20 inches) as standard. The roof itself rests directly on the floor, so there is no knee wall, if I understand correctly. But somehow, it feels incomplete like this. The drywall contractor has now offered to move the knee wall forward to 1 m (3 feet). The cost is 280 euros net for just under 6 meters. He needs to know soon for some reason.
I thought this would come after the underfloor heating and screed installation. Or how does that usually work? What would be behind the wall then? The floor without screed? That would be quite dirty for storage space.
Wouldn’t it be more practical to leave the knee wall out completely and do it myself later? I imagine it all being a bit “cleaner” regarding the flooring and so on. But then the roof would meet the floor at an angle. That could be an issue in terms of appearance.
Maybe you have some tips for me. What makes sense, what is worthwhile?
Thanks a lot!
I have another question that’s been on my mind. We are currently having a semi-detached house built through a developer. On the top floor, there is currently a knee wall with a rough construction height of 50 cm (20 inches) as standard. The roof itself rests directly on the floor, so there is no knee wall, if I understand correctly. But somehow, it feels incomplete like this. The drywall contractor has now offered to move the knee wall forward to 1 m (3 feet). The cost is 280 euros net for just under 6 meters. He needs to know soon for some reason.
I thought this would come after the underfloor heating and screed installation. Or how does that usually work? What would be behind the wall then? The floor without screed? That would be quite dirty for storage space.
Wouldn’t it be more practical to leave the knee wall out completely and do it myself later? I imagine it all being a bit “cleaner” regarding the flooring and so on. But then the roof would meet the floor at an angle. That could be an issue in terms of appearance.
Maybe you have some tips for me. What makes sense, what is worthwhile?
Thanks a lot!
C
C.beckmann198630 Dec 2020 09:10I have actually been thinking about this as well. Would you then reduce the planned 50cm (20 inches) knee wall? Or use the space between 50-100cm (20-39 inches) later on?
Sorry if I’m expressing myself in a complicated way.
Sorry if I’m expressing myself in a complicated way.
H
hampshire30 Dec 2020 09:11Sliding doors between 75cm (30 inches) and 1m (39 inches) high, with built-in shelves or cabinets behind them with appropriate usable depth.
Have the 50 cm (20 inch) knee wall professionally constructed, as planned.
If you are doing the interior finishing yourself, such as installing the flooring, I would suggest building a wooden stud frame at around 1 meter (or adjust as needed based on the layout, use, or requirements) and covering it with sliding doors. The area below 50 cm (20 inches) can only support weight without insulation and offers little benefit for storage. For a hobby area or guest room, the low space can add a sense of openness if the room is otherwise quite small.
If you are doing the interior finishing yourself, such as installing the flooring, I would suggest building a wooden stud frame at around 1 meter (or adjust as needed based on the layout, use, or requirements) and covering it with sliding doors. The area below 50 cm (20 inches) can only support weight without insulation and offers little benefit for storage. For a hobby area or guest room, the low space can add a sense of openness if the room is otherwise quite small.
C.beckmann1986 schrieb:
Would you reduce the planned 50cm (20 inches) knee wall? Or use the area between 50-100cm (20-39 inches) later on? As mentioned before, clearly: a closed ("dead" / "sealed") knee wall should only be used as a drywall skirting or a pure dust gap, with a maximum height of 20cm (8 inches). Under no circumstances would I extend the underfloor heating beyond a future knee wall into the very last corner where dust accumulates. Keep in mind, with a knee wall height of 0 and a roof pitch of 33°, you only reach a full meter (3.3 feet) in height after 1.54m (5 feet) in. If you are considering a knee wall at this height, leave that strip—about 1.6m (5.2 feet)—free of heating loops.
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