ᐅ Constructing a Cost-Effective Retaining Wall / Slope Stabilization
Created on: 27 Feb 2019 13:50
A
abc12345
Hello everyone,
The weather is steadily improving, so it’s time to start planning the outdoor area. Parts of the property will need to be filled in. The site has already been surveyed, and leveling at the lowest point would require approximately 2 meters (6.5 feet) of fill soil.
There are gardens adjacent to the property on all sides, so I will need to build a retaining wall accordingly.
I have already spoken with the local building materials supplier. He suggested simply making a foundation by excavating 1 meter (3.3 feet) deep, then adding a 20 cm (8 inches) layer of crushed stone, followed by 80 cm (31.5 inches) of reinforced concrete. On top, concrete blocks would be placed, reinforced with rebar and filled with concrete. He recommended using blocks sized 26 cm or 29 cm (10 or 11.5 inches), but said he could not provide structural calculations or any official advice. He quoted me a material cost of about 3,500 euros.
Nothing was mentioned about installing drainage. I’m also unsure where the water would be directed since all sides border neighboring properties. Or did I misunderstand the purpose of drainage—is it to carry water away from the retaining wall to somewhere else?
Now my question is whether there might be other, possibly more cost-effective ways to do this? Precast L-shaped concrete elements are available here, but they cost about three times as much and require a mini-excavator for installation.
Another option I considered is to reduce the wall height to 1 meter (3.3 feet) and create a steep slope up to the fill level. However, I’m not sure how steep the slope can be without causing sliding. The property will later be enclosed with a dense hedge for privacy. As far as I understand, the wall must be set back 2 meters (6.5 feet) from the property boundary to avoid problems with height restrictions, especially because the ground has already been raised by 2 meters (6.5 feet).
I want to minimize the amount of space lost to make the most of the property, but I also want to keep costs relatively low since there are many other projects planned.
Since I can’t see the wall from my side and the neighbor is a daycare center, appearance is not a major concern for me.
Maybe you have some ideas or tips on the best way to approach this.
Thank you in advance for your help.
The weather is steadily improving, so it’s time to start planning the outdoor area. Parts of the property will need to be filled in. The site has already been surveyed, and leveling at the lowest point would require approximately 2 meters (6.5 feet) of fill soil.
There are gardens adjacent to the property on all sides, so I will need to build a retaining wall accordingly.
I have already spoken with the local building materials supplier. He suggested simply making a foundation by excavating 1 meter (3.3 feet) deep, then adding a 20 cm (8 inches) layer of crushed stone, followed by 80 cm (31.5 inches) of reinforced concrete. On top, concrete blocks would be placed, reinforced with rebar and filled with concrete. He recommended using blocks sized 26 cm or 29 cm (10 or 11.5 inches), but said he could not provide structural calculations or any official advice. He quoted me a material cost of about 3,500 euros.
Nothing was mentioned about installing drainage. I’m also unsure where the water would be directed since all sides border neighboring properties. Or did I misunderstand the purpose of drainage—is it to carry water away from the retaining wall to somewhere else?
Now my question is whether there might be other, possibly more cost-effective ways to do this? Precast L-shaped concrete elements are available here, but they cost about three times as much and require a mini-excavator for installation.
Another option I considered is to reduce the wall height to 1 meter (3.3 feet) and create a steep slope up to the fill level. However, I’m not sure how steep the slope can be without causing sliding. The property will later be enclosed with a dense hedge for privacy. As far as I understand, the wall must be set back 2 meters (6.5 feet) from the property boundary to avoid problems with height restrictions, especially because the ground has already been raised by 2 meters (6.5 feet).
I want to minimize the amount of space lost to make the most of the property, but I also want to keep costs relatively low since there are many other projects planned.
Since I can’t see the wall from my side and the neighbor is a daycare center, appearance is not a major concern for me.
Maybe you have some ideas or tips on the best way to approach this.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Just google "concrete formwork block instructions," the PDF in the third link should be useful for you. It basically contains all the information.
I only built a 20m (65 feet) long wall, 1m (3 feet) high, and mixed the concrete myself in the mixer. I wouldn’t want to do that again. It’s better to have it delivered ready-mixed, it’s not much more expensive.
I only built a 20m (65 feet) long wall, 1m (3 feet) high, and mixed the concrete myself in the mixer. I wouldn’t want to do that again. It’s better to have it delivered ready-mixed, it’s not much more expensive.
I would also get a concrete mixer; that would be the least of the problems. It can always come in handy.
I had already looked at the instructions, but thanks anyway for the tip.
The issue with ready-mix concrete for us would be that we would need a separate crane pump, as the truck cannot get closer than 40m (130 feet) to the wall. Because of that, I will have no choice but to mix it myself.
The question is which masonry thickness is required to ensure stability and whether the wall could possibly be built more cost-effectively. We do not want to just stack planting rings with a setback and plant on top.
I had already looked at the instructions, but thanks anyway for the tip.
The issue with ready-mix concrete for us would be that we would need a separate crane pump, as the truck cannot get closer than 40m (130 feet) to the wall. Because of that, I will have no choice but to mix it myself.
The question is which masonry thickness is required to ensure stability and whether the wall could possibly be built more cost-effectively. We do not want to just stack planting rings with a setback and plant on top.
Webmaster-uk schrieb:
The question is which wall thickness is required to ensure safety and whether the wall could possibly be built more cost-effectively. We don’t want just plant rings set back and planted.It’s stated: 30cm (12 inches) stones backfilled without traffic load, maximum height 2.35m (7.7 ft). 25cm (10 inches) stones, maximum height 1.80m (5.9 ft).
Webmaster-uk schrieb:
The question is which wall thickness needs to be installed to ensure safety and whether the wall could possibly be built more cost-effectively. Don’t you happen to have a structural engineer available whom you can easily ask about this? It should be quite simple and quick, and hardly cost anything (if the engineer is “straightforward”). It doesn’t really require much calculation or drawing... Then at least you could build towards the goal of “minimal material use.”
Why would you always need to ask a structural engineer? Every manufacturer provides instructions—just follow those, as they generally allow for reasonable tolerances.
But if the concrete mixer can’t get close enough, how do you plan to get sand to a 45m x 2m x approximately 0.25m (about 820 ft x 6.5 ft x 10 inches) area? By hand? Good luck with that.
We built about 50 meters (160 ft) of wall with Dad, partly right on the property line with the neighbor. It’s really hard work, but we did it in stages spread over the year.
For the foundation, we had concrete delivered. For filling, depending on the location on the plot, we had dry concrete mix delivered with a 4 to 5-hour delay to fill the hollow blocks, roughly. It only makes sense for volumes of 5m³ (about 6.5 cubic yards) or more; otherwise, you end up paying extra.
But if the concrete mixer can’t get close enough, how do you plan to get sand to a 45m x 2m x approximately 0.25m (about 820 ft x 6.5 ft x 10 inches) area? By hand? Good luck with that.
We built about 50 meters (160 ft) of wall with Dad, partly right on the property line with the neighbor. It’s really hard work, but we did it in stages spread over the year.
For the foundation, we had concrete delivered. For filling, depending on the location on the plot, we had dry concrete mix delivered with a 4 to 5-hour delay to fill the hollow blocks, roughly. It only makes sense for volumes of 5m³ (about 6.5 cubic yards) or more; otherwise, you end up paying extra.
S
sichtbeton8228 Feb 2019 12:09Alternatively, gabions can be used. They are generally quite affordable. The filling material then determines the final cost. If you can obtain filling material cheaply, for example from your own rocky excavation elsewhere or at good prices from a local quarry, it can become cost-effective.
Additional advantages: shelter for many animal species. No issues with water pressure.
Additional advantages: shelter for many animal species. No issues with water pressure.
Similar topics