ᐅ Constructing a Cost-Effective Retaining Wall / Slope Stabilization
Created on: 27 Feb 2019 13:50
A
abc12345
Hello everyone,
The weather is steadily improving, so it’s time to start planning the outdoor area. Parts of the property will need to be filled in. The site has already been surveyed, and leveling at the lowest point would require approximately 2 meters (6.5 feet) of fill soil.
There are gardens adjacent to the property on all sides, so I will need to build a retaining wall accordingly.
I have already spoken with the local building materials supplier. He suggested simply making a foundation by excavating 1 meter (3.3 feet) deep, then adding a 20 cm (8 inches) layer of crushed stone, followed by 80 cm (31.5 inches) of reinforced concrete. On top, concrete blocks would be placed, reinforced with rebar and filled with concrete. He recommended using blocks sized 26 cm or 29 cm (10 or 11.5 inches), but said he could not provide structural calculations or any official advice. He quoted me a material cost of about 3,500 euros.
Nothing was mentioned about installing drainage. I’m also unsure where the water would be directed since all sides border neighboring properties. Or did I misunderstand the purpose of drainage—is it to carry water away from the retaining wall to somewhere else?
Now my question is whether there might be other, possibly more cost-effective ways to do this? Precast L-shaped concrete elements are available here, but they cost about three times as much and require a mini-excavator for installation.
Another option I considered is to reduce the wall height to 1 meter (3.3 feet) and create a steep slope up to the fill level. However, I’m not sure how steep the slope can be without causing sliding. The property will later be enclosed with a dense hedge for privacy. As far as I understand, the wall must be set back 2 meters (6.5 feet) from the property boundary to avoid problems with height restrictions, especially because the ground has already been raised by 2 meters (6.5 feet).
I want to minimize the amount of space lost to make the most of the property, but I also want to keep costs relatively low since there are many other projects planned.
Since I can’t see the wall from my side and the neighbor is a daycare center, appearance is not a major concern for me.
Maybe you have some ideas or tips on the best way to approach this.
Thank you in advance for your help.
The weather is steadily improving, so it’s time to start planning the outdoor area. Parts of the property will need to be filled in. The site has already been surveyed, and leveling at the lowest point would require approximately 2 meters (6.5 feet) of fill soil.
There are gardens adjacent to the property on all sides, so I will need to build a retaining wall accordingly.
I have already spoken with the local building materials supplier. He suggested simply making a foundation by excavating 1 meter (3.3 feet) deep, then adding a 20 cm (8 inches) layer of crushed stone, followed by 80 cm (31.5 inches) of reinforced concrete. On top, concrete blocks would be placed, reinforced with rebar and filled with concrete. He recommended using blocks sized 26 cm or 29 cm (10 or 11.5 inches), but said he could not provide structural calculations or any official advice. He quoted me a material cost of about 3,500 euros.
Nothing was mentioned about installing drainage. I’m also unsure where the water would be directed since all sides border neighboring properties. Or did I misunderstand the purpose of drainage—is it to carry water away from the retaining wall to somewhere else?
Now my question is whether there might be other, possibly more cost-effective ways to do this? Precast L-shaped concrete elements are available here, but they cost about three times as much and require a mini-excavator for installation.
Another option I considered is to reduce the wall height to 1 meter (3.3 feet) and create a steep slope up to the fill level. However, I’m not sure how steep the slope can be without causing sliding. The property will later be enclosed with a dense hedge for privacy. As far as I understand, the wall must be set back 2 meters (6.5 feet) from the property boundary to avoid problems with height restrictions, especially because the ground has already been raised by 2 meters (6.5 feet).
I want to minimize the amount of space lost to make the most of the property, but I also want to keep costs relatively low since there are many other projects planned.
Since I can’t see the wall from my side and the neighbor is a daycare center, appearance is not a major concern for me.
Maybe you have some ideas or tips on the best way to approach this.
Thank you in advance for your help.
HilfeHilfe schrieb:
Well, how I would decide. If I still had a 500 square meter (5382 square feet) plot, I wouldn’t care about the slope… and it would be stress-free. But if you only have about 150 square meters (1615 square feet) of lawn left, every bit of space counts! That was our situation! Everything mixed well! And mowing was easier too.So, the plot behind the house and on the side, which could be freely used, we would then have about 800 square meters (8611 square feet) plus a generous terrace.
Garten2 schrieb:
@Webmaster-uk
I brought the thread about the 105 m (345 feet) garden wall back up for you further down under Garden. Maybe the threshold wall could also be an option for you.Thank you very much for that. I took a look and it’s generally a good solution. What immediately came to mind, however, is the children’s urge to climb. Since there is a kindergarten playground directly behind, I’m not sure how it would work if children are climbing on it daily, and planting wouldn’t be possible either, unless the kindergarten took care of it.
I’m bringing this thread back up... Over the last few days, I’ve built a 20 m (65.6 ft) wall using formwork blocks: a foundation 0.8 m (2.6 ft) deep and 0.4 m (1.3 ft) wide, with 4 rows of formwork blocks on top (50 x 25 x 24 cm (20 x 10 x 9.5 inches)). I would now like to backfill this 1 m (3.3 ft) high wall on my side with soil up to about 0.8–0.9 m (2.6–3 ft).
Would you recommend doing anything additional to protect against moisture damage? Bitumen coating and a dimpled membrane (damp-proof membrane) for the part of the wall that will be backfilled, as well as a capping slab to protect against water from above?
Would you recommend doing anything additional to protect against moisture damage? Bitumen coating and a dimpled membrane (damp-proof membrane) for the part of the wall that will be backfilled, as well as a capping slab to protect against water from above?
Did you build the wall and foundation with steel reinforcement? I believe a 1-meter (3.3 feet) wall can generally be backfilled, if I remember correctly. It’s best to check the guidelines from your stone manufacturer in this case.
Otherwise, apply bitumen and that’s it. A dimpled membrane is supposed to improve water drainage, but I’ve often heard that it’s unnecessary for a garden wall. The bitumen is waterproof, and as long as you don’t backfill and compact large sharp stones directly against the wall, the bitumen layer won’t be damaged either.
Just put capping stones on top and you’re done.
Otherwise, apply bitumen and that’s it. A dimpled membrane is supposed to improve water drainage, but I’ve often heard that it’s unnecessary for a garden wall. The bitumen is waterproof, and as long as you don’t backfill and compact large sharp stones directly against the wall, the bitumen layer won’t be damaged either.
Just put capping stones on top and you’re done.
I always use 2K bitumen sealant from the local hardware store from MEM.
I’m not sure if there are significant differences, but I don’t think so.
As mentioned, dimpled membrane is a matter of design preference and, in my opinion, not necessary for a garden wall.
For a basement, it is recommended due to insulation, but since it’s not living space, it’s less critical.
I’m not sure if there are significant differences, but I don’t think so.
As mentioned, dimpled membrane is a matter of design preference and, in my opinion, not necessary for a garden wall.
For a basement, it is recommended due to insulation, but since it’s not living space, it’s less critical.
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