ᐅ Are there any installation tips for assembling Ikea Platsa units on tiled floors?

Hello everyone,

I am currently planning to install the Ikea Platsa system in my apartment. The issue is that my floor is fully tiled, and I am unsure about the best way to mount it on this surface. Are there any specific installation tips or experiences on how to securely and stably attach the Platsa system to tiled floors without causing problems with stability or damage later on?

I have already considered whether to use additional rubber pads or backing plates, or if certain wall plugs or screws are recommended. I would also like to know if installing the individual modules on a tiled floor requires different preparations compared to wood or carpeted floors.

If anyone has experience with installing this system on tiled floors, I would be very grateful for detailed tips or advice on pitfalls to avoid.

Thank you in advance!

Hey Lepaxton38, great question, I recently did exactly that myself!

First of all: don’t worry, the Ikea Platsa cabinets can be mounted on tiles really well, you just need to keep a few things in mind. I attached small rubber furniture pads under the feet, which has several advantages:
- protects the floor
- absorbs vibrations and compensates for slight unevenness
- provides more grip and reduces slipping risk

Also, I recommend carefully leveling the feet of the units (using a spirit level!) and positioning the holes for the wall plugs as precisely as possible. Drilling into tiles can be tricky, so definitely use the right drill bit (ideally a glass/tile bit).

One more tip: if you’re worried about screws damaging the tiles, use plastic wall plugs instead of metal ones—they offer some flexibility.

Good luck, it’ll turn out great! Feel free to ask if you want to know more!

Hello Lepaxton38,

I like to go into a bit more technical detail because when installing on tiled floors, several points are crucial to ensure a stable construction in the long term.

First of all, I recommend carefully checking the condition of your tiles before drilling – some tiles are relatively thin or porous. You need to be very cautious here, as too much pressure or using a drill bit that is too large can cause the tile to crack.

My recommendations:
- Use a suitable tile drill bit (e.g., with a diamond tip)
- Start with a small diameter and carefully enlarge the holes
- Use a drill stand or guide to prevent the drill bit from slipping

Furthermore, it might make sense to use special heavy-duty anchors designed for tiled walls instead of regular screws and wall plugs. Even though the furniture is standing on the floor, the connection to the floor tiles should be very secure – this may also depend on the load in the specific room.

If you cannot or do not want to screw the modules directly, definitely place a thin impact sound insulation layer made of rubber or foam panels under the feet. This prevents slipping as well as the transfer of vibrations and protects the floor.

Finally, during installation, repeatedly check the exact alignment of the modules relative to each other and the floor to avoid any tipping or gaps later on.

I’m curious: What type of tile do you have? Porcelain stoneware, ceramic, or something else?

Good luck!

NUGRANT schrieb:
Also, I would recommend carefully leveling the bases of the modules (using a spirit level!) and positioning the holes for the anchors as precisely as possible.

Interesting, but it’s important to consider that drilling into tiles can not only damage the tiles themselves if done carelessly, but also harm the underlying screed or floor build-up layers if you don’t know exactly what is underneath. This is especially critical if there are heating pipes or cables running below.

TEBILO schrieb:
If you don’t want or can’t screw the modules directly, definitely place a thin impact sound insulation made of rubber or foam sheets under the feet.

I agree with this point, as mounting should not necessarily involve drilling and anchoring into tiles. Systems like Ikea’s Platsa are generally designed for stability by standing alone. So it’s worth asking whether the security gained by screwing really justifies the effort and potential risk.

Personally, the option to equip the elements with sturdy rubber buffers and possibly stabilize them further by snapping or locking the modules together afterwards seems like a less invasive and often sufficient solution.

How do others here see this?