Hello everyone,
We are now in the fortunate/unfortunate position of inheriting my parents’ house from 1988/89. Most likely, my parents will move into a rental apartment around December, and then we can start renovation and remodeling work. Overall, the house is in good condition, and we will soon receive a brief report needed for the payout among the siblings.
As usual, you start small and then it grows.
The bathrooms are about 5 years old, so nothing will be done there. The gas heating system is from 2013, I believe, and will be sufficient for now.
What is set in stone:
1) Remove the complete flooring on the ground floor and first floor and install underfloor heating. We want to install a wood-burning stove with a heat exchanger in the living room, possibly water-cooled. At a minimum, we will lay the water pipes when breaking up the floor, so it can be retrofitted later if needed.
Manifold 1 will be placed in the hallway behind the front door, and manifold 2 upstairs in the hallway between the children’s rooms.
1.1) Hallway, kitchen, storage room: I can get tiles at a reasonable price through an acquaintance, including tile installation.
1.2) Living room: Parquet flooring, still to be selected.
1.3) Upper floor: Probably cork flooring.
1.4) In the course of this, I also want to install a proper network cabling. Two network outlets in each children’s bedroom plus one for an access point, 2 x 2 ports in the living room, and four ports in the basement. The basement will include the future home office.
2) If structurally feasible, a wall opening will be created between the kitchen and living room. The maximum width will be determined by the structural engineer and will be around 1.5-2 meters (approximately 5-6.5 feet), not 3 meters (about 10 feet) as shown in the plan.
3) All doors and frames will be replaced. Possibly a sliding door will be installed from the entrance hall to the kitchen.
5) Painting.
6) New carpet in the basement.
Where I am still working and uncertain about the scope of work (and will need your advice):
7) All windows will be replaced. They are original from 1988 with double-glazed PVC frames. All have a Helima muntin bar, if I remember correctly. We don’t like them and want new ones. What exactly should I pay attention to in order to keep the effort and disturbance as low as possible? Basically, we don’t want extensive chipping work on the masonry. No additional or new wall insulation is planned. Keyword here: mold prevention.
I don’t have a better picture at hand right now, but I will provide detailed photos later.
8) The front door will also be replaced at the same time. Same considerations as point 7. I cannot estimate the extent of the work.
9) The electrical distribution cabinet probably needs work as well, as it is still from 1988.
Nice to have:
10) New staircase, if the costs are not too high.
11) Drywall partition in the basement/stairwell due to “cold drafts” going up (according to my wife).
I have attached the plans and the project description.
Thank you very much and have a great day.
We are now in the fortunate/unfortunate position of inheriting my parents’ house from 1988/89. Most likely, my parents will move into a rental apartment around December, and then we can start renovation and remodeling work. Overall, the house is in good condition, and we will soon receive a brief report needed for the payout among the siblings.
As usual, you start small and then it grows.
The bathrooms are about 5 years old, so nothing will be done there. The gas heating system is from 2013, I believe, and will be sufficient for now.
What is set in stone:
1) Remove the complete flooring on the ground floor and first floor and install underfloor heating. We want to install a wood-burning stove with a heat exchanger in the living room, possibly water-cooled. At a minimum, we will lay the water pipes when breaking up the floor, so it can be retrofitted later if needed.
Manifold 1 will be placed in the hallway behind the front door, and manifold 2 upstairs in the hallway between the children’s rooms.
1.1) Hallway, kitchen, storage room: I can get tiles at a reasonable price through an acquaintance, including tile installation.
1.2) Living room: Parquet flooring, still to be selected.
1.3) Upper floor: Probably cork flooring.
1.4) In the course of this, I also want to install a proper network cabling. Two network outlets in each children’s bedroom plus one for an access point, 2 x 2 ports in the living room, and four ports in the basement. The basement will include the future home office.
2) If structurally feasible, a wall opening will be created between the kitchen and living room. The maximum width will be determined by the structural engineer and will be around 1.5-2 meters (approximately 5-6.5 feet), not 3 meters (about 10 feet) as shown in the plan.
3) All doors and frames will be replaced. Possibly a sliding door will be installed from the entrance hall to the kitchen.
5) Painting.
6) New carpet in the basement.
Where I am still working and uncertain about the scope of work (and will need your advice):
7) All windows will be replaced. They are original from 1988 with double-glazed PVC frames. All have a Helima muntin bar, if I remember correctly. We don’t like them and want new ones. What exactly should I pay attention to in order to keep the effort and disturbance as low as possible? Basically, we don’t want extensive chipping work on the masonry. No additional or new wall insulation is planned. Keyword here: mold prevention.
I don’t have a better picture at hand right now, but I will provide detailed photos later.
8) The front door will also be replaced at the same time. Same considerations as point 7. I cannot estimate the extent of the work.
9) The electrical distribution cabinet probably needs work as well, as it is still from 1988.
Nice to have:
10) New staircase, if the costs are not too high.
11) Drywall partition in the basement/stairwell due to “cold drafts” going up (according to my wife).
I have attached the plans and the project description.
Thank you very much and have a great day.
I have now received a quote for a complete replacement:
Total window area approximately 17.7m² (190.5 sq ft)
Door 1.1m x 2.2m (3.6 ft x 7.2 ft) + 0.621m (2 ft) window.
9 windows + front door (door alone about $4,000) with triple glazing from Gayko Compact Classic V82 AD, U-value of 0.6. Total cost including installation and disposal: €16,500.
This would result in savings of around €1,000 per year.
Through a colleague’s brother, only replacing the glass panes with warm edge spacer, approximately €1,900.
With a U-value of about 1.5, this yields savings of around €650 per year.
Am I missing something? Based purely on the numbers, replacing just the glass panes seems to make much more sense.
Total window area approximately 17.7m² (190.5 sq ft)
Door 1.1m x 2.2m (3.6 ft x 7.2 ft) + 0.621m (2 ft) window.
9 windows + front door (door alone about $4,000) with triple glazing from Gayko Compact Classic V82 AD, U-value of 0.6. Total cost including installation and disposal: €16,500.
This would result in savings of around €1,000 per year.
Through a colleague’s brother, only replacing the glass panes with warm edge spacer, approximately €1,900.
With a U-value of about 1.5, this yields savings of around €650 per year.
Am I missing something? Based purely on the numbers, replacing just the glass panes seems to make much more sense.
Window installers often prefer to promote the option that generates more business, which is usually a full replacement. Replacing just the glass panes doesn’t create more mess than can be easily cleaned up, and especially with warm edge spacers, it can already bring a noticeable improvement. Innovations in PVC frames are mostly limited to design features (rounded edges, narrower visible frame width). However, upgrading from double- to triple-glazed units typically results in a glass package about 2cm (0.8 inches) thicker, so the glazing beads need to allow for that extra thickness. After so many years, replacing the seals is likely to bring a significant improvement as well. The biggest advantage is that glass replacement can be done gradually, literally pane by pane. That means you could start by replacing the glass on the north side and treat this expense as an initial test. If the results are not satisfactory, you can still opt for the complete replacement later.
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dertill schrieb:
Additional wall insulation is not cost-effective anyway, as only savings corresponding to a reduction of the U-value by 0.3 can be achieved, which equals about 20 kWh/m² (6.3 kBTU/ft²) per year at around 200€/m² cost.I’m quoting myself because I just saw the construction specification. Since the wall consists of 17.5 cm (7 inches) (or maybe 24 cm (9.5 inches)?) load-bearing masonry + 5 cm (2 inches) insulation (probably mineral wool with a thermal conductivity of 0.040 W/mK) + 4 cm (1.6 inches) air gap + outer leaf masonry, one measure would make sense here: filling the air gap with loose mineral wool fibers, provided that the exterior wall is rainproof.
ElEnrico schrieb:
Am I missing something? Based on the numbers alone, replacing the glazing clearly makes more sense.If your frames are still in good condition and have a sufficient remaining service life, replacing the glazing makes sense. Replacing windows with triple glazing is subsidized with a 15% grant, whereas glazing replacement is not.Similar topics