Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
P
pagoni202027 Aug 2020 14:24neo-sciliar schrieb:
Would an opaque roof not prevent condensation? :-oYou might think so, but then you're sitting in the dark, or the room behind becomes darker. I prefer sitting under a glass roof; it feels nicer than being under a "regular" roof. neo-sciliar schrieb:
We're still deciding between glass or something darker....you did ask that already. neo-sciliar schrieb:
I'm considering whether the shading (venetian blinds) should be installed directly on the window or possibly on the outer edge of the terrace... The effect inside the house is the same, as the sun is kept out, but the effect on the terrace is different.I can’t quite picture what you mean here. I would usually put the standard venetian blinds directly on the window. But if your roof extends far enough to block sunlight from entering the house, then you naturally don’t need blinds on the window. Though then you will have to use artificial lighting. Looking forward to your further innovations.N
neo-sciliar27 Aug 2020 14:29pagoni2020 schrieb:
However, if your roof extends so far that sunlight doesn’t enter the house, you obviously don’t need external blinds at the window. Then, of course, you’ll rely on artificial lighting.
Looking forward to your next innovations Quote from another thread (well known to you ): the windows are not only for light but also for the sense of space... The fact is, this one window will let in little light, which could be a reason for glazing in the roof.
I have seen sliding elements at the terrace edge from Baufritz that allow for targeted shading. I really liked that.
I still have many ideas.
Hello,
is there any reason against pouring a concrete foundation for the ground source heat pump in the utility room? I’ve seen or read about this here in the forum before. Does anyone remember which user mentioned this specifically? Or maybe even several users? You could do this about a month before laying the screed, so the ground source heat pump is already securely placed on a dry spot/foundation, and you don’t lose time during the screed heating process.
In the summer, without any time pressure, is it really necessary to run the screed heating program using the ground source heat pump, or can you just wait longer? 🙄 Or is it mandatory/recommended to do so to allow the underfloor heating pipes to expand a bit, preventing cracks in the screed later on?
Thanks a lot and best regards 🙂
is there any reason against pouring a concrete foundation for the ground source heat pump in the utility room? I’ve seen or read about this here in the forum before. Does anyone remember which user mentioned this specifically? Or maybe even several users? You could do this about a month before laying the screed, so the ground source heat pump is already securely placed on a dry spot/foundation, and you don’t lose time during the screed heating process.
In the summer, without any time pressure, is it really necessary to run the screed heating program using the ground source heat pump, or can you just wait longer? 🙄 Or is it mandatory/recommended to do so to allow the underfloor heating pipes to expand a bit, preventing cracks in the screed later on?
Thanks a lot and best regards 🙂
So the one square meter where the heat pump is installed probably doesn’t matter. You can definitely tile over it.
But why do you want to wait longer in summer instead of using the heat pump?
First of all, I would say that 30 degrees Celsius (86°F) outdoor temperature doesn’t equal 35 degrees Celsius (95°F) in the screed. And if you’re concerned about electricity costs, of course, you should deactivate the electric heating element immediately after the system is put into operation, if the installer doesn’t do it.
But why do you want to wait longer in summer instead of using the heat pump?
First of all, I would say that 30 degrees Celsius (86°F) outdoor temperature doesn’t equal 35 degrees Celsius (95°F) in the screed. And if you’re concerned about electricity costs, of course, you should deactivate the electric heating element immediately after the system is put into operation, if the installer doesn’t do it.
It is less about drying. The heating phase, specified by the manufacturers and screed installers, is intended to relieve stresses in the screed to prevent consequential damage. During this heating phase, the temperature is not constant but follows a precisely defined cycle of higher and lower levels. For example, our flooring installer has detailed instructions on how this must be carried out to provide a warranty on the floor.
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