ᐅ Floor Plan Optimization for Urban Villa + Considerations for Land Elevation

Created on: 31 Jan 2020 13:29
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Shiny86
Plot size 492 sqm (5293 sq ft)
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?

Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage


House design
Who designed it?
-Architect

What do you particularly like? Why?

Large living area, master bathroom

What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large

Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes

What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors


What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?

  • Where could it still be optimized? Would you recommend different window dimensions or sill heights?
  • What do you think is poor or what would you do differently?
  • A partition wall will be added in the walk-in closet. That would theoretically allow watching TV from the bed. I am considering a lightweight wall. I plan to place a 211cm (83 inches) Pax combination wardrobe in the closet. The closet is planned with a raw width of 218cm (86 inches). Do you think 218cm is enough for the Pax once the walls are plastered, or how wide should the rough dimensions preferably be?
  • Is the hallway on the ground floor too narrow?
  • Would you raise the ground level? The house would be 40cm (16 inches) below street level. If I build a terrace into the garden, it would be about 1m (3 ft) difference. You could raise only the house level, resulting in approximately 1.6m (5 ft) difference between terrace and garden. I don’t know anyone living below street level. Raising the garden would probably not be allowed without permits, and affected neighbors likely wouldn’t agree. On the sides of the house adjacent to neighbors, raising is permitted only up to certain limits. I am overwhelmed with the decision.
  • Do you have any ideas for arranging the sofa differently and placing the TV sensibly? My husband doesn’t want the sofa back facing a window. I still need to get used to placing the sofa in the middle of the room.
  • Is the kitchen size sufficient for a nice kitchen with an island?


What do you think about the floor plans?

Floor plan of a single-family house: living/dining area, kitchen, hallway, storage room, cloakroom, WC.


Floor plan of a family home: CHILD 1, CHILD 2, PARENTS, WALK-IN CLOSET, BATHROOM, SHOWER/BATHROOM, HALLWAY.


Architectural drawing: two-story residential house with garage; southwest and northeast views.


Two facade views of a house: northwest and southeast with roof, windows, terrace, and garage.
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Shiny86
10 Apr 2020 18:00
Ok, for a wall opening for a double-leaf door, I have seen 151 and 152. But is 151cm (60 inches) enough?
11ant10 Apr 2020 18:06
Shiny86 schrieb:

Why 151 and not 150 clear opening width? What difference does that make?
It’s basically the same—I just don’t differentiate between exterior and interior walls and always refer to the nominal dimension including the joint gap.
Shiny86 schrieb:

I’ve seen door openings for double-leaf doors as 151 and 152.
? ? ? ? ?
Shiny86 schrieb:

Would you also build the wardrobe niche 70cm deep in the rough construction phase?
We are probably talking about a non-load-bearing interior wall here, but without a decision yet on whether it’s made of sand-lime brick, gypsum panel, or drywall. For brick, I would go with 75cm (30 inches); for the other options, you can be flexible. You’re making a mountain out of a molehill here—any sensible person would make this call easily on their own.
Shiny86 schrieb:

Parapet height 87cm (34 inches) for 1.26m (4 feet 2 inches) high windows. I’m trying to get the windows to 1.01/1.26m (3 feet 4 inches / 4 feet 2 inches) or 2.01/1.26m (6 feet 7 inches / 4 feet 2 inches) for the double-leaf ones. Looks good, right?
I just answered that recently. You don’t have to apply the golden ratio—4:3, 16:9, or just approximate is fine. But if every window is different, then instead of a mixed salad, you’ll end up with a big mess.
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C
Curly
10 Apr 2020 18:26
I would always plan the windows to be as tall as possible, meaning just high enough for the roller shutter box to fit above. It doesn’t look good when there is a wide section of masonry above the window, and it also makes the room brighter when the window is taller.

Best regards,
Sabine
S
Shiny86
10 Apr 2020 18:35
11ant schrieb:

It’s the same thing – I just don’t differentiate between outer and inner walls and always refer to the nominal dimension including the mortar joint.

So 150 and 151 cm (59 and 59.4 inches) are not the same. One is definitely better for fitting doors later on, isn’t it?
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Shiny86
10 Apr 2020 18:37
@Curly
I think your windows are 138 cm (54 inches) high because you raised the ceiling. How high are your ceilings again?
C
Curly
10 Apr 2020 19:09
Shiny86 schrieb:

@Curly
I think your windows are 138m (453 feet) high because you raised the ceiling. How high are your ceilings again?

The ceilings are 2.70m (8 ft 10 in) and the floor-to-ceiling windows are approximately 2.35m (7 ft 9 in) high. There is no standard size for windows anyway. For us, it didn’t matter at all; the window installer came, measured everything to the centimeter, delivered, and installed it. He also told us that nowadays, the measurements are always taken on site to ensure a perfect fit.

Best regards,
Sabine