Hello everyone,
We are currently planning our home’s technical systems. We will be installing an air-to-water heat pump, and my husband saw these Nest thermostats at his brother-in-law’s place and now absolutely wants them. Setting aside that these devices are quite expensive… how much do typical thermostats usually cost? Of course, there are probably all kinds of price ranges, but I mean the standard white or gray control units. Does anyone have experience with Nest? Do they just look good, or are these thermostats also effective? Can you tell the heating specialist, “Hey, skip your usual thermostats and install these ones instead?”
Thanks in advance for your help.
We are currently planning our home’s technical systems. We will be installing an air-to-water heat pump, and my husband saw these Nest thermostats at his brother-in-law’s place and now absolutely wants them. Setting aside that these devices are quite expensive… how much do typical thermostats usually cost? Of course, there are probably all kinds of price ranges, but I mean the standard white or gray control units. Does anyone have experience with Nest? Do they just look good, or are these thermostats also effective? Can you tell the heating specialist, “Hey, skip your usual thermostats and install these ones instead?”
Thanks in advance for your help.
S
Sebastian7920 Oct 2015 13:12There are sample letters available online – just try searching for them.
Or simply don’t do it – which of course is prohibited.
Or simply don’t do it – which of course is prohibited.
Mycraft schrieb:
Small variations in room sizes are also possible; I have a difference of about 3K in the house depending on the room location. Just adjust (or have adjusted) the volume flows accordingly. One more silly question about this. Doesn’t a ERR also regulate the volume flow at the distributor? What is the difference then, other than the fact that the ERR consumes a bit of electricity?
I still find it far too general to dismiss ERR without considering each individual case. In particular, opponents argue inconsistently, alternating between describing the underfloor heating as slow, then again as "fast" (for example: adjusting at the ERR is said to be insufficient for adapting a child’s room to the weather because it is considered too short-term, yet weather-compensated control with the only input being the "current temperature," which is an even more short-term input, is considered adequate for regulation).
Also, my bedroom is usually a few degrees cooler than my bathroom, which is not a problem in a building envelope. I also do not believe this causes construction damage; such damage may occur with condensing water, but that requires higher humidity or a larger temperature difference.
It is certainly true that for more than 60% of single-family homes, ERR is not necessary, but it must not be claimed that it is generally wrong. And, when correctly implemented (e.g., with a differential pressure controlled pump), it does not restrict anything and allows the hydraulic balancing to continue functioning, so no disadvantage arises.
Also, my bedroom is usually a few degrees cooler than my bathroom, which is not a problem in a building envelope. I also do not believe this causes construction damage; such damage may occur with condensing water, but that requires higher humidity or a larger temperature difference.
It is certainly true that for more than 60% of single-family homes, ERR is not necessary, but it must not be claimed that it is generally wrong. And, when correctly implemented (e.g., with a differential pressure controlled pump), it does not restrict anything and allows the hydraulic balancing to continue functioning, so no disadvantage arises.
Musketier schrieb:
One more silly question about this. Doesn’t an ERR also regulate the flow rate at the manifold? So what’s the difference, besides the fact that the ERR consumes some electricity?No, a "standard ERR" can only switch fully on or off, so it doesn’t really regulate anything. The flow rates are set manually at the manifold, and then the valve controlled by the ERR is either fully open or fully closed. There is no “real” control happening... the heating system simply oscillates due to hysteresis and, in addition to the heating energy, unnecessarily consumes electricity.
Without an ERR, you get something like this:
S
Sebastian7920 Oct 2015 14:43Saruss isn’t quite sure what he wants anymore – but taking a step back? No, rather a bit of an offensive approach combined with knowledge he picked up from bosy.
Of course, you have a larger temperature difference between the bedroom and bathroom – most likely because you are one of those whose heating system is designed primarily for the warmest room, which many companies tend to do (the homeowner’s wish for a cozy bathroom). And if 23–24°C (73–75°F) are maintained there, 19°C (66°F) without ventilation in the bedroom is possible.
Please next focus on a weather-compensated heating system, and how the relationship between the heating curve and outdoor temperature including hysteresis works.
Oh, do you have a differential-pressure controlled pump? Probably not... like many others as well.
We’re talking about a single-family house here, so from an efficiency perspective, you can generally call that nonsense.
Of course, you have a larger temperature difference between the bedroom and bathroom – most likely because you are one of those whose heating system is designed primarily for the warmest room, which many companies tend to do (the homeowner’s wish for a cozy bathroom). And if 23–24°C (73–75°F) are maintained there, 19°C (66°F) without ventilation in the bedroom is possible.
Please next focus on a weather-compensated heating system, and how the relationship between the heating curve and outdoor temperature including hysteresis works.
Oh, do you have a differential-pressure controlled pump? Probably not... like many others as well.
We’re talking about a single-family house here, so from an efficiency perspective, you can generally call that nonsense.
Mycraft schrieb:
No, the "standard ERR" can only be 1 or 0, meaning on or off... there is no real control... the volume flow rates are adjusted at the manifold, and then the valve is either fully open or fully closed by the ERR. There is no "true" regulation... the heating system simply oscillates through the hysteresis... and on top of the heating energy, it unnecessarily consumes electricity...First of all, thanks for the detailed explanation a few pages back. A lot has developed in this thread since then.
I think I need to ask our heating technician tomorrow exactly how ERRs work now... I had understood that the thermostats regulate the volume flow and not just switch "off" or "on." But maybe that was wishful thinking.
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