Hello everyone,
Over the past few years, I’ve gradually made our rental apartment a bit smarter. Tado for heating and air conditioning, Hue for the lights, Nuki for the front door, Eve for the garden, some smart plugs and window sensors, and Netatmo to stay informed. Everything is integrated with Apple’s HomeKit, and almost everything can also be controlled via multiple Alexas.
Overall, we are very satisfied with our setup. So far, we have no problems running automations that, for example (where desired), turn on the lights via motion sensors. Geofencing controls many things (cameras, heating, lighting, etc.), so for us, almost all needs are covered. Since we already have a lot of hardware, we want to keep all of it and implement it in our new house. Of course, there are also some things to improve here.
Just this past weekend, I discovered that Philips has a collaboration with Gira offering switches that require no wiring, no batteries, and look great as well. Although we enjoy almost everything automated, there are always some situations or rooms where a simple switch is still faster and better. That’s why we are currently considering installing these switches alongside the existing wired light switches where they already sit. Weberhaus also offers this solution for their houses, so it can’t be too bad. Still, it would be quite a drastic step to completely give up the “old” switches and thus wiring as well.
Here is question 1:
Who has already implemented this solution with the Hue switches and can share their experience?
I have, of course, imagined some worst-case scenarios and have tested a few things at home. Lights MUST always be able to be turned on somehow—that is my basic requirement.
Case 1: Internet connection fails (Wi-Fi still active).
Apple HomeKit is offline, as is Alexa (both perfectly manageable since these are luxury features, not basic requirements). Hue devices still communicate and can be controlled both with the switches and the app.
Case 2: Router (FritzBox) total failure.
Same as Case 1.
Case 3: Hue Bridge breaks.
Lights can no longer be controlled by either the switches or the app. BUT the emergency solution still works: cutting power to the lamp and restoring it. Hue bulbs are, by default, ALWAYS on when powered.
The catch with the new Gira switches is that they also stop working, meaning you really have to remove the bulb and put it back. For me, that’s okay in such an exceptional situation—it has never happened to me in all these years, and one night can be managed like that.
So, the Hue solution with their switches is basically acceptable to me even in an emergency. Test passed!
Please point out any cases I haven’t thought of (and please don’t just say power outage 😀).
Now, as a new feature for my new house, I will have roller shutters everywhere, which will be controlled wirelessly with Somfy motors, so I need your help again since I can’t test these yet.
The question here is: are there wireless solutions that allow the roller shutters to be lowered even in exceptional situations?
Theoretically, radio motors don’t need switches anymore, but are there similar wireless switches that require no wiring?
What’s really important to me is: if all standard equipment fails (the associated bridge, Wi-Fi router…), is there any way to still lower the roller shutters without installing a wired backup solution?
That’s it for now 😀.
A quick clarification: I’m just a user, so if I have described things incorrectly (like calling a switch a button or vice versa—I’ve never been able to keep that straight), please overlook it 🙂
Best regards
From a smart home enthusiast who doesn’t really have a proper smart home yet 😉
Over the past few years, I’ve gradually made our rental apartment a bit smarter. Tado for heating and air conditioning, Hue for the lights, Nuki for the front door, Eve for the garden, some smart plugs and window sensors, and Netatmo to stay informed. Everything is integrated with Apple’s HomeKit, and almost everything can also be controlled via multiple Alexas.
Overall, we are very satisfied with our setup. So far, we have no problems running automations that, for example (where desired), turn on the lights via motion sensors. Geofencing controls many things (cameras, heating, lighting, etc.), so for us, almost all needs are covered. Since we already have a lot of hardware, we want to keep all of it and implement it in our new house. Of course, there are also some things to improve here.
Just this past weekend, I discovered that Philips has a collaboration with Gira offering switches that require no wiring, no batteries, and look great as well. Although we enjoy almost everything automated, there are always some situations or rooms where a simple switch is still faster and better. That’s why we are currently considering installing these switches alongside the existing wired light switches where they already sit. Weberhaus also offers this solution for their houses, so it can’t be too bad. Still, it would be quite a drastic step to completely give up the “old” switches and thus wiring as well.
Here is question 1:
Who has already implemented this solution with the Hue switches and can share their experience?
I have, of course, imagined some worst-case scenarios and have tested a few things at home. Lights MUST always be able to be turned on somehow—that is my basic requirement.
Case 1: Internet connection fails (Wi-Fi still active).
Apple HomeKit is offline, as is Alexa (both perfectly manageable since these are luxury features, not basic requirements). Hue devices still communicate and can be controlled both with the switches and the app.
Case 2: Router (FritzBox) total failure.
Same as Case 1.
Case 3: Hue Bridge breaks.
Lights can no longer be controlled by either the switches or the app. BUT the emergency solution still works: cutting power to the lamp and restoring it. Hue bulbs are, by default, ALWAYS on when powered.
The catch with the new Gira switches is that they also stop working, meaning you really have to remove the bulb and put it back. For me, that’s okay in such an exceptional situation—it has never happened to me in all these years, and one night can be managed like that.
So, the Hue solution with their switches is basically acceptable to me even in an emergency. Test passed!
Please point out any cases I haven’t thought of (and please don’t just say power outage 😀).
Now, as a new feature for my new house, I will have roller shutters everywhere, which will be controlled wirelessly with Somfy motors, so I need your help again since I can’t test these yet.
The question here is: are there wireless solutions that allow the roller shutters to be lowered even in exceptional situations?
Theoretically, radio motors don’t need switches anymore, but are there similar wireless switches that require no wiring?
What’s really important to me is: if all standard equipment fails (the associated bridge, Wi-Fi router…), is there any way to still lower the roller shutters without installing a wired backup solution?
That’s it for now 😀.
A quick clarification: I’m just a user, so if I have described things incorrectly (like calling a switch a button or vice versa—I’ve never been able to keep that straight), please overlook it 🙂
Best regards
From a smart home enthusiast who doesn’t really have a proper smart home yet 😉
K
karl.jonas3 Dec 2021 19:56“If you know wireless, you choose cable” is an old saying among engineers. Wireless should only be used when cabling is not possible or too expensive (e.g., for retrofitting).
netuser schrieb:Could you please explain that a bit? What exactly did you dislike about the Shellys (or what didn’t work)?
Compared to that, Shellys (which I also had) are a mess with even more disadvantages.
karl.jonas schrieb:
Could you explain that a bit? What exactly did you dislike about the Shellys (or what didn’t work)? Necessary “tinkering” inside the junction box with 6 cables, which can become rather awkward even with deep boxes...
Of course, this is a general issue with such actuators and not a specific flaw of the Shellys themselves.
Still, it was a relief to install the flush-mounted switches from Bosch/Homematic in just 3 minutes using only 3 wires, while also gaining more features (e.g., a percentage display for open/closed status). For me, the twice-as-high price (Bosch 40-50 / Shelly approx. 20 EUR) was definitely worth it.
The Shelly app was not user-friendly, and the (unofficial) integration into HomeKit was only possible through complicated workarounds with an “imperfect result.”
I was certainly unhappy and later glad that with alternatives it is much simpler, more reliable, and better overall.
@netuser
Your post eventually convinced me, but the preliminary work done by the rest of you was also great and necessary, so thanks to everyone!
I was also considering the Bosch system because of the smoke detectors and window contacts, and using it for everything would simply be a logical next step. However, I still have a little dilemma about starting mostly without switches. (With the Hues, my idea is to run all the cables to where switches might make sense later on, but initially not install any switches—just the back boxes and then wallpaper over them. That way, I could easily add switches later since the wiring would already be in place.) Bosch switches are only available as actual switches, right? So I couldn’t do the same thing with Bosch by just roughing in the back box, wiring, and a Bosch device, then closing it up discreetly without a visible switch, could I?
Can you also set the slat angle with the Bosch solution? For example, in HomeKit, can you save two different end positions (slats open and closed)? Does that work with Alexa as well?
The Bosch system operates purely over Wi-Fi (to HomeKit), correct? Does that mean the potential range issue I was worried about with Somfy is not a problem here, since I plan to equip the house so that Wi-Fi is available even in the farthest corners of the basement?
Best regards
Your post eventually convinced me, but the preliminary work done by the rest of you was also great and necessary, so thanks to everyone!
I was also considering the Bosch system because of the smoke detectors and window contacts, and using it for everything would simply be a logical next step. However, I still have a little dilemma about starting mostly without switches. (With the Hues, my idea is to run all the cables to where switches might make sense later on, but initially not install any switches—just the back boxes and then wallpaper over them. That way, I could easily add switches later since the wiring would already be in place.) Bosch switches are only available as actual switches, right? So I couldn’t do the same thing with Bosch by just roughing in the back box, wiring, and a Bosch device, then closing it up discreetly without a visible switch, could I?
Can you also set the slat angle with the Bosch solution? For example, in HomeKit, can you save two different end positions (slats open and closed)? Does that work with Alexa as well?
The Bosch system operates purely over Wi-Fi (to HomeKit), correct? Does that mean the potential range issue I was worried about with Somfy is not a problem here, since I plan to equip the house so that Wi-Fi is available even in the farthest corners of the basement?
Best regards
Nixwill schrieb:
@netuser
Your post ultimately convinced me, but the preliminary work by the others was just as great and necessary, so thanks to everyone! I didn’t mean to convince you 🙂
I just had the same thoughts as you and ended up with this so far satisfactory result. Mainly because 1.) HomeKit integration was important to me and 2.) I wanted to use the Bosch TwinGuards anyway. Not only for their smoke detector functionality but also to monitor air quality (temperature, humidity, air purity).
By the way, without wanting to make a big advertisement here (which it might look like), I recently came across a Bosch promotion (purchase value > 250 EUR) where you get a TwinGuard for free. Check it out if you’re interested.
Nixwill schrieb:
The Bosch switches are only available as switches, right? So I couldn’t do the same trick with Bosch, just setting the orientation of the box, putting the cables and a Bosch device inside, and then closing it up just as discreetly? Yes, unfortunately, they are only available as complete flush-mounted switches. However, I can’t fully understand the desire to hide them completely.
At least for us, having the physical switches near the windows still proves to be a frequently used feature...
Nixwill schrieb:
Can you also set the slat angle with the Bosch solution? For example, pre-program two different end positions in HomeKit (slats open and closed). Does this also work with Alexa? They are apparently compatible with Alexa (which I don’t use). The switches are officially suitable for venetian blinds as well, but I can’t comment due to lack of personal experience.
Nixwill schrieb:
The Bosch solution works purely via Wi-Fi (for HomeKit), right? Does that mean the possible range problem I feared with Somfy is eliminated since the house will definitely be equipped by me so that Wi-Fi is available even in the furthest corner of the basement?
Regards For HomeKit, yes, it uses Wi-Fi, but the internal communication between the controller and the switch works on 868 MHz.
Nixwill schrieb:
I would like to ask how to integrate wind sensors and outdoor light sensors into such a solution? I don’t use this personally, but it should be possible without issues via a "HomeKit hub." Whether Bosch offers suitable products directly, you would need to check. Otherwise, Rademacher might be interesting—they definitely have some, are also HomeKit compatible, and they also offer "concealable" actuators that are installed behind the switches inside the wall box.
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