Dear forum community,
The electrical subcontractor from my general contractor has now reached out, saying he would like to finally discuss the electrical planning on site (at the construction site). I know that normally it is recommended to plan this trade from the very beginning, but that was not possible with my general contractor and the subcontractor; they explicitly wanted to do it only once the shell is finished.
Now, I would like to tap into the forum’s knowledge and your experience for general tips regarding electrical planning.
First, the standard equipment from my general contractor:
[QUOTE=Scope of work from the general contractor]
You will receive the complete electrical installation according to VDE standards including
meter cabinet, distribution panel, equipotential bonding, circuit breakers, and residual-current devices in the building.
Standard switch program and sockets (Elso, Berker, Jung or Busch/Jaeger) — white. Connected load of the
house: 14.5 kW. Battery-powered smoke detectors will be installed in all required rooms.
For underfloor heating, all rooms will have room temperature sensors. CAT 7 network cabling consisting
of one RJ45 double socket in the living and bedrooms and a patch panel in the utility room.
Hallway
1 lighting point
1 two-way switch
1 double socket outlet
1 doorbell system with chime in the hallway
1 external lighting point
House connection room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
1 connection for outdoor temperature sensor
1 socket for the washing machine
Kitchen
1 lighting point
1 off switch
4 double socket outlets
1 socket for the refrigerator
1 socket for the dishwasher
1 cooker connection outlet
1 socket for the extractor hood
Living room
2 lighting points
2 two-way switches
4 double socket outlets
1 antenna empty conduit
1 telephone empty conduit
1 lighting point for the terrace
Guest WC
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
Each additional room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
3 double socket outlets
Bathroom
2 lighting points
2 off switches
4 socket outlets
[/QUOTE]
Furthermore, it is clear from my side that I need deep flush-mounted boxes for the blinds and shutters. I plan to equip these with Shellys for centralized control (probably at a later stage).
Other thoughts we have already considered:
- We do not want spotlights
- If in doubt, rather one double socket outlet and a power strip than banks of quadruple outlets
- We have already purchased square and rectangular LED panels (a total of 7) which will provide basic lighting, but we have absolutely no idea about specialized lighting concepts. Indirect lighting is already a familiar term.
- We cannot afford professional lighting consultation.
- I am interested in automatic lighting control with motion/presence sensors. Is this easily retrofit-able in a conventional electrical installation? Can such systems be time-controlled? For example, in the hallway, the light turns on via motion sensor, but after 10 p.m. (22:00) only dimmed and after midnight (0:00) not at all? Additionally, overridable by a switch?
- My wife likes cold, very bright light, while I prefer cozy, warm light. The aforementioned LED panels are adjustable. Are there alternative options for this?
From your perspective, what are the most important things to consider? What practical solutions have you implemented beyond the standard equipment that you would not want to miss?
Anyone is welcome to make concrete proposals. My floor plans can be found here (please ignore the furniture shown):
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/lage-stadtvilla-oder-efh-auf-500-m2-rechteck.33505/post-409926
Thanks and best regards,
Tolentino
The electrical subcontractor from my general contractor has now reached out, saying he would like to finally discuss the electrical planning on site (at the construction site). I know that normally it is recommended to plan this trade from the very beginning, but that was not possible with my general contractor and the subcontractor; they explicitly wanted to do it only once the shell is finished.
Now, I would like to tap into the forum’s knowledge and your experience for general tips regarding electrical planning.
First, the standard equipment from my general contractor:
[QUOTE=Scope of work from the general contractor]
You will receive the complete electrical installation according to VDE standards including
meter cabinet, distribution panel, equipotential bonding, circuit breakers, and residual-current devices in the building.
Standard switch program and sockets (Elso, Berker, Jung or Busch/Jaeger) — white. Connected load of the
house: 14.5 kW. Battery-powered smoke detectors will be installed in all required rooms.
For underfloor heating, all rooms will have room temperature sensors. CAT 7 network cabling consisting
of one RJ45 double socket in the living and bedrooms and a patch panel in the utility room.
Hallway
1 lighting point
1 two-way switch
1 double socket outlet
1 doorbell system with chime in the hallway
1 external lighting point
House connection room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
1 connection for outdoor temperature sensor
1 socket for the washing machine
Kitchen
1 lighting point
1 off switch
4 double socket outlets
1 socket for the refrigerator
1 socket for the dishwasher
1 cooker connection outlet
1 socket for the extractor hood
Living room
2 lighting points
2 two-way switches
4 double socket outlets
1 antenna empty conduit
1 telephone empty conduit
1 lighting point for the terrace
Guest WC
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
Each additional room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
3 double socket outlets
Bathroom
2 lighting points
2 off switches
4 socket outlets
[/QUOTE]
Furthermore, it is clear from my side that I need deep flush-mounted boxes for the blinds and shutters. I plan to equip these with Shellys for centralized control (probably at a later stage).
Other thoughts we have already considered:
- We do not want spotlights
- If in doubt, rather one double socket outlet and a power strip than banks of quadruple outlets
- We have already purchased square and rectangular LED panels (a total of 7) which will provide basic lighting, but we have absolutely no idea about specialized lighting concepts. Indirect lighting is already a familiar term.
- We cannot afford professional lighting consultation.
- I am interested in automatic lighting control with motion/presence sensors. Is this easily retrofit-able in a conventional electrical installation? Can such systems be time-controlled? For example, in the hallway, the light turns on via motion sensor, but after 10 p.m. (22:00) only dimmed and after midnight (0:00) not at all? Additionally, overridable by a switch?
- My wife likes cold, very bright light, while I prefer cozy, warm light. The aforementioned LED panels are adjustable. Are there alternative options for this?
From your perspective, what are the most important things to consider? What practical solutions have you implemented beyond the standard equipment that you would not want to miss?
Anyone is welcome to make concrete proposals. My floor plans can be found here (please ignore the furniture shown):
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/lage-stadtvilla-oder-efh-auf-500-m2-rechteck.33505/post-409926
Thanks and best regards,
Tolentino
For photovoltaic systems, you should plan for two conduits.
Also, run a LAN cable to the doorbell.
Likewise, consider running cables to the locations where you might want to install cameras in the future.
Place an access point in the living room and one in each office. Although one on the upper floor would be sufficient, it would only support 2.4 GHz and lower data transfer rates. Don’t save on LAN wiring.
You can, of course, install the LAN cables in the utility room yourself. Be sure to inform the electrician that you want a patch panel with keystone jacks. Additionally, get a network cabinet (not too small), a switch, and a power strip.
Also, run a LAN cable to the doorbell.
Likewise, consider running cables to the locations where you might want to install cameras in the future.
Place an access point in the living room and one in each office. Although one on the upper floor would be sufficient, it would only support 2.4 GHz and lower data transfer rates. Don’t save on LAN wiring.
You can, of course, install the LAN cables in the utility room yourself. Be sure to inform the electrician that you want a patch panel with keystone jacks. Additionally, get a network cabinet (not too small), a switch, and a power strip.
It’s not immediately obvious from the work specifications, since it’s not listed under the rooms but mentioned in the introduction, but a double RJ45 socket is included in every living area. Apart from the two access points, I can’t think of any additional LAN connections I would need. I would probably install a switch at the media wall in the living room for all the devices, which would then be hidden in the lowboard.
How large are the conduits for the photovoltaic system? And what should I say as a reason, since the electrician wants to lay the cables right away...?
How large are the conduits for the photovoltaic system? And what should I say as a reason, since the electrician wants to lay the cables right away...?
H
hampshire3 Apr 2021 08:04Tolentino schrieb:
How large should the conduits be for photovoltaic? And what should I say as a reason, since the electrician wants to lay the cables right away...One size larger than the electrician recommends. Cable thickness depends on system size and wiring configuration. Reason: Because I feel more comfortable with that.
Place the switch centrally and have several LAN outlets in the living room. This way, you get full 1 Gbit speed and only need to buy and manage one switch.
2x DN40 conduits for photovoltaics (different strings, grounding, possibly weather station/wind sensor...).
Don’t forget the access point for the terrace/garden.
2x DN40 conduits for photovoltaics (different strings, grounding, possibly weather station/wind sensor...).
Don’t forget the access point for the terrace/garden.
T
T_im_Norden3 Apr 2021 08:07My electrician has also pre-installed cables. Since our house doesn’t have a conduit shaft to the upper floor, installing empty conduits would not have been possible. Does your wife want the currently popular up/down outdoor lights? Then you will need more lighting points.
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