Dear forum community,
The electrical subcontractor from my general contractor has now reached out, saying he would like to finally discuss the electrical planning on site (at the construction site). I know that normally it is recommended to plan this trade from the very beginning, but that was not possible with my general contractor and the subcontractor; they explicitly wanted to do it only once the shell is finished.
Now, I would like to tap into the forum’s knowledge and your experience for general tips regarding electrical planning.
First, the standard equipment from my general contractor:
[QUOTE=Scope of work from the general contractor]
You will receive the complete electrical installation according to VDE standards including
meter cabinet, distribution panel, equipotential bonding, circuit breakers, and residual-current devices in the building.
Standard switch program and sockets (Elso, Berker, Jung or Busch/Jaeger) — white. Connected load of the
house: 14.5 kW. Battery-powered smoke detectors will be installed in all required rooms.
For underfloor heating, all rooms will have room temperature sensors. CAT 7 network cabling consisting
of one RJ45 double socket in the living and bedrooms and a patch panel in the utility room.
Hallway
1 lighting point
1 two-way switch
1 double socket outlet
1 doorbell system with chime in the hallway
1 external lighting point
House connection room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
1 connection for outdoor temperature sensor
1 socket for the washing machine
Kitchen
1 lighting point
1 off switch
4 double socket outlets
1 socket for the refrigerator
1 socket for the dishwasher
1 cooker connection outlet
1 socket for the extractor hood
Living room
2 lighting points
2 two-way switches
4 double socket outlets
1 antenna empty conduit
1 telephone empty conduit
1 lighting point for the terrace
Guest WC
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
Each additional room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
3 double socket outlets
Bathroom
2 lighting points
2 off switches
4 socket outlets
[/QUOTE]
Furthermore, it is clear from my side that I need deep flush-mounted boxes for the blinds and shutters. I plan to equip these with Shellys for centralized control (probably at a later stage).
Other thoughts we have already considered:
- We do not want spotlights
- If in doubt, rather one double socket outlet and a power strip than banks of quadruple outlets
- We have already purchased square and rectangular LED panels (a total of 7) which will provide basic lighting, but we have absolutely no idea about specialized lighting concepts. Indirect lighting is already a familiar term.
- We cannot afford professional lighting consultation.
- I am interested in automatic lighting control with motion/presence sensors. Is this easily retrofit-able in a conventional electrical installation? Can such systems be time-controlled? For example, in the hallway, the light turns on via motion sensor, but after 10 p.m. (22:00) only dimmed and after midnight (0:00) not at all? Additionally, overridable by a switch?
- My wife likes cold, very bright light, while I prefer cozy, warm light. The aforementioned LED panels are adjustable. Are there alternative options for this?
From your perspective, what are the most important things to consider? What practical solutions have you implemented beyond the standard equipment that you would not want to miss?
Anyone is welcome to make concrete proposals. My floor plans can be found here (please ignore the furniture shown):
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/lage-stadtvilla-oder-efh-auf-500-m2-rechteck.33505/post-409926
Thanks and best regards,
Tolentino
The electrical subcontractor from my general contractor has now reached out, saying he would like to finally discuss the electrical planning on site (at the construction site). I know that normally it is recommended to plan this trade from the very beginning, but that was not possible with my general contractor and the subcontractor; they explicitly wanted to do it only once the shell is finished.
Now, I would like to tap into the forum’s knowledge and your experience for general tips regarding electrical planning.
First, the standard equipment from my general contractor:
[QUOTE=Scope of work from the general contractor]
You will receive the complete electrical installation according to VDE standards including
meter cabinet, distribution panel, equipotential bonding, circuit breakers, and residual-current devices in the building.
Standard switch program and sockets (Elso, Berker, Jung or Busch/Jaeger) — white. Connected load of the
house: 14.5 kW. Battery-powered smoke detectors will be installed in all required rooms.
For underfloor heating, all rooms will have room temperature sensors. CAT 7 network cabling consisting
of one RJ45 double socket in the living and bedrooms and a patch panel in the utility room.
Hallway
1 lighting point
1 two-way switch
1 double socket outlet
1 doorbell system with chime in the hallway
1 external lighting point
House connection room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
1 connection for outdoor temperature sensor
1 socket for the washing machine
Kitchen
1 lighting point
1 off switch
4 double socket outlets
1 socket for the refrigerator
1 socket for the dishwasher
1 cooker connection outlet
1 socket for the extractor hood
Living room
2 lighting points
2 two-way switches
4 double socket outlets
1 antenna empty conduit
1 telephone empty conduit
1 lighting point for the terrace
Guest WC
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
Each additional room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
3 double socket outlets
Bathroom
2 lighting points
2 off switches
4 socket outlets
[/QUOTE]
Furthermore, it is clear from my side that I need deep flush-mounted boxes for the blinds and shutters. I plan to equip these with Shellys for centralized control (probably at a later stage).
Other thoughts we have already considered:
- We do not want spotlights
- If in doubt, rather one double socket outlet and a power strip than banks of quadruple outlets
- We have already purchased square and rectangular LED panels (a total of 7) which will provide basic lighting, but we have absolutely no idea about specialized lighting concepts. Indirect lighting is already a familiar term.
- We cannot afford professional lighting consultation.
- I am interested in automatic lighting control with motion/presence sensors. Is this easily retrofit-able in a conventional electrical installation? Can such systems be time-controlled? For example, in the hallway, the light turns on via motion sensor, but after 10 p.m. (22:00) only dimmed and after midnight (0:00) not at all? Additionally, overridable by a switch?
- My wife likes cold, very bright light, while I prefer cozy, warm light. The aforementioned LED panels are adjustable. Are there alternative options for this?
From your perspective, what are the most important things to consider? What practical solutions have you implemented beyond the standard equipment that you would not want to miss?
Anyone is welcome to make concrete proposals. My floor plans can be found here (please ignore the furniture shown):
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/lage-stadtvilla-oder-efh-auf-500-m2-rechteck.33505/post-409926
Thanks and best regards,
Tolentino
M
motorradsilke3 Apr 2021 09:25kbt09 schrieb:
Twilight switches can of course be combined with timers and motion sensors. Using a twilight switch is useful so that lights turn on as early as 5 PM (17:00) in winter and only at 10 PM (22:00) on June 21.Motion sensors already have a built-in setting for twilight. Ours at least don’t turn on during the day when it’s too bright.
H
hampshire3 Apr 2021 09:43Dusk-to-dawn switches with motion sensors are available from €20. An electrician should handle the wiring – outdoor installation is straightforward and saves a lot of money. The dusk-to-dawn switch with motion sensor only requires an appropriate detection range and a clear line of sight to the area that is, quite literally, "crucial."
Tolentino schrieb:
Where is the logic for something like this usually located? In the light fixture? Or inside the switch?It depends. Ask your electrician. We can’t know what you need or want outside.H
hampshire3 Apr 2021 09:55The logic can be integrated within the detector itself. This is the simplest approach.
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