Dear forum community,
The electrical subcontractor from my general contractor has now reached out, saying he would like to finally discuss the electrical planning on site (at the construction site). I know that normally it is recommended to plan this trade from the very beginning, but that was not possible with my general contractor and the subcontractor; they explicitly wanted to do it only once the shell is finished.
Now, I would like to tap into the forum’s knowledge and your experience for general tips regarding electrical planning.
First, the standard equipment from my general contractor:
[QUOTE=Scope of work from the general contractor]
You will receive the complete electrical installation according to VDE standards including
meter cabinet, distribution panel, equipotential bonding, circuit breakers, and residual-current devices in the building.
Standard switch program and sockets (Elso, Berker, Jung or Busch/Jaeger) — white. Connected load of the
house: 14.5 kW. Battery-powered smoke detectors will be installed in all required rooms.
For underfloor heating, all rooms will have room temperature sensors. CAT 7 network cabling consisting
of one RJ45 double socket in the living and bedrooms and a patch panel in the utility room.
Hallway
1 lighting point
1 two-way switch
1 double socket outlet
1 doorbell system with chime in the hallway
1 external lighting point
House connection room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
1 connection for outdoor temperature sensor
1 socket for the washing machine
Kitchen
1 lighting point
1 off switch
4 double socket outlets
1 socket for the refrigerator
1 socket for the dishwasher
1 cooker connection outlet
1 socket for the extractor hood
Living room
2 lighting points
2 two-way switches
4 double socket outlets
1 antenna empty conduit
1 telephone empty conduit
1 lighting point for the terrace
Guest WC
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
Each additional room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
3 double socket outlets
Bathroom
2 lighting points
2 off switches
4 socket outlets
[/QUOTE]
Furthermore, it is clear from my side that I need deep flush-mounted boxes for the blinds and shutters. I plan to equip these with Shellys for centralized control (probably at a later stage).
Other thoughts we have already considered:
- We do not want spotlights
- If in doubt, rather one double socket outlet and a power strip than banks of quadruple outlets
- We have already purchased square and rectangular LED panels (a total of 7) which will provide basic lighting, but we have absolutely no idea about specialized lighting concepts. Indirect lighting is already a familiar term.
- We cannot afford professional lighting consultation.
- I am interested in automatic lighting control with motion/presence sensors. Is this easily retrofit-able in a conventional electrical installation? Can such systems be time-controlled? For example, in the hallway, the light turns on via motion sensor, but after 10 p.m. (22:00) only dimmed and after midnight (0:00) not at all? Additionally, overridable by a switch?
- My wife likes cold, very bright light, while I prefer cozy, warm light. The aforementioned LED panels are adjustable. Are there alternative options for this?
From your perspective, what are the most important things to consider? What practical solutions have you implemented beyond the standard equipment that you would not want to miss?
Anyone is welcome to make concrete proposals. My floor plans can be found here (please ignore the furniture shown):
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/lage-stadtvilla-oder-efh-auf-500-m2-rechteck.33505/post-409926
Thanks and best regards,
Tolentino
The electrical subcontractor from my general contractor has now reached out, saying he would like to finally discuss the electrical planning on site (at the construction site). I know that normally it is recommended to plan this trade from the very beginning, but that was not possible with my general contractor and the subcontractor; they explicitly wanted to do it only once the shell is finished.
Now, I would like to tap into the forum’s knowledge and your experience for general tips regarding electrical planning.
First, the standard equipment from my general contractor:
[QUOTE=Scope of work from the general contractor]
You will receive the complete electrical installation according to VDE standards including
meter cabinet, distribution panel, equipotential bonding, circuit breakers, and residual-current devices in the building.
Standard switch program and sockets (Elso, Berker, Jung or Busch/Jaeger) — white. Connected load of the
house: 14.5 kW. Battery-powered smoke detectors will be installed in all required rooms.
For underfloor heating, all rooms will have room temperature sensors. CAT 7 network cabling consisting
of one RJ45 double socket in the living and bedrooms and a patch panel in the utility room.
Hallway
1 lighting point
1 two-way switch
1 double socket outlet
1 doorbell system with chime in the hallway
1 external lighting point
House connection room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
1 connection for outdoor temperature sensor
1 socket for the washing machine
Kitchen
1 lighting point
1 off switch
4 double socket outlets
1 socket for the refrigerator
1 socket for the dishwasher
1 cooker connection outlet
1 socket for the extractor hood
Living room
2 lighting points
2 two-way switches
4 double socket outlets
1 antenna empty conduit
1 telephone empty conduit
1 lighting point for the terrace
Guest WC
1 lighting point
1 off switch
1 double socket outlet
Each additional room
1 lighting point
1 off switch
3 double socket outlets
Bathroom
2 lighting points
2 off switches
4 socket outlets
[/QUOTE]
Furthermore, it is clear from my side that I need deep flush-mounted boxes for the blinds and shutters. I plan to equip these with Shellys for centralized control (probably at a later stage).
Other thoughts we have already considered:
- We do not want spotlights
- If in doubt, rather one double socket outlet and a power strip than banks of quadruple outlets
- We have already purchased square and rectangular LED panels (a total of 7) which will provide basic lighting, but we have absolutely no idea about specialized lighting concepts. Indirect lighting is already a familiar term.
- We cannot afford professional lighting consultation.
- I am interested in automatic lighting control with motion/presence sensors. Is this easily retrofit-able in a conventional electrical installation? Can such systems be time-controlled? For example, in the hallway, the light turns on via motion sensor, but after 10 p.m. (22:00) only dimmed and after midnight (0:00) not at all? Additionally, overridable by a switch?
- My wife likes cold, very bright light, while I prefer cozy, warm light. The aforementioned LED panels are adjustable. Are there alternative options for this?
From your perspective, what are the most important things to consider? What practical solutions have you implemented beyond the standard equipment that you would not want to miss?
Anyone is welcome to make concrete proposals. My floor plans can be found here (please ignore the furniture shown):
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/lage-stadtvilla-oder-efh-auf-500-m2-rechteck.33505/post-409926
Thanks and best regards,
Tolentino
What I immediately noticed was the lack of exterior landscaping.
Did you need outdoor lighting, lighting for the carport/house facade, or power supply in the garden?
We had discussions about the cost of the larger distribution board (which was ultimately covered by the builder) and the installation of CAT cables in protective conduit (which seemed ridiculous).
We paid extra for a separate circuit for our home office, motion detectors in the hallway (which I quite like), extra LAN cables (in every room except the bedroom), preparation for satellite TV (the cable is installed) just in case, numerous additional power outlets, and several more light switches and ceiling outlets.
Also, we had the oven connection separately protected and installed an in-wall cable duct for the TV (a gimmick for 70€ that I never want to miss again).
We skipped KNX. If we had a bottomless budget, we probably would have invested more in smart home technology.
What I do miss is electric roller shutter control. We went with the classic option. They have some advantages (in my view), but unfortunately, the downside is that they look unattractive. With the knowledge I have now, I might have done that differently.
Did you need outdoor lighting, lighting for the carport/house facade, or power supply in the garden?
We had discussions about the cost of the larger distribution board (which was ultimately covered by the builder) and the installation of CAT cables in protective conduit (which seemed ridiculous).
We paid extra for a separate circuit for our home office, motion detectors in the hallway (which I quite like), extra LAN cables (in every room except the bedroom), preparation for satellite TV (the cable is installed) just in case, numerous additional power outlets, and several more light switches and ceiling outlets.
Also, we had the oven connection separately protected and installed an in-wall cable duct for the TV (a gimmick for 70€ that I never want to miss again).
We skipped KNX. If we had a bottomless budget, we probably would have invested more in smart home technology.
What I do miss is electric roller shutter control. We went with the classic option. They have some advantages (in my view), but unfortunately, the downside is that they look unattractive. With the knowledge I have now, I might have done that differently.
The equipment is very minimal. You still need 20-40 additional power outlets, LAN connections in the ceilings for access points, several in the living room, office, etc.
Presence detectors can be conventional, but for logical control, it tends more toward a BUS system...
You can discuss this on the construction site, but make sure to get the plan and review it carefully. Power outlets should be wired with 5-conductor cables. This way, they can also be made switchable.
Presence detectors can be conventional, but for logical control, it tends more toward a BUS system...
You can discuss this on the construction site, but make sure to get the plan and review it carefully. Power outlets should be wired with 5-conductor cables. This way, they can also be made switchable.
O
Osnabruecker2 Apr 2021 18:09I can only agree with Kati.
Outdoor areas, terrace (e.g. electric awning, lighting...), barbecue area, carport/garage...
Outdoor areas, terrace (e.g. electric awning, lighting...), barbecue area, carport/garage...
Here are some thoughts:
- Is a simple doorbell enough, or do you want something else? If you choose an intercom system with a camera, make sure to consider the mounting height for the camera. All cables to that spot should definitely be installed in conduits so they can be easily replaced later.
- Prepare for an electric vehicle charging station plus LAN connection, or have it installed properly right from the start.
- As Rick already mentioned, don’t forget the access points. Additionally, consider installing an outdoor access point for the terrace or garden.
- How should the telecommunications equipment be set up in the utility room? Should the router, patch panel, etc. simply be mounted on the wall, or should everything go into a network cabinet? If the network cabinet will be installed later, have the patch panel set up with keystone jacks and make sure to include sufficiently long cables. That way, you can install the network cabinet afterward yourself. Please discuss with the electrician how to implement the equipotential bonding for the network cabinet, or better yet, have them do it directly. Don’t forget a power outlet in the area around the network cabinet.
- Is a simple doorbell enough, or do you want something else? If you choose an intercom system with a camera, make sure to consider the mounting height for the camera. All cables to that spot should definitely be installed in conduits so they can be easily replaced later.
- Prepare for an electric vehicle charging station plus LAN connection, or have it installed properly right from the start.
- As Rick already mentioned, don’t forget the access points. Additionally, consider installing an outdoor access point for the terrace or garden.
- How should the telecommunications equipment be set up in the utility room? Should the router, patch panel, etc. simply be mounted on the wall, or should everything go into a network cabinet? If the network cabinet will be installed later, have the patch panel set up with keystone jacks and make sure to include sufficiently long cables. That way, you can install the network cabinet afterward yourself. Please discuss with the electrician how to implement the equipotential bonding for the network cabinet, or better yet, have them do it directly. Don’t forget a power outlet in the area around the network cabinet.
rick2018 schrieb:
You can discuss this on the construction site, but make sure to get the plans and review them calmly afterwards. Use 5-core wiring for outlets. This way, you can also make them switchable if needed. I am a firm believer in keep it simple – KNX, bus systems, smart home, etc. seem unnecessary for a regular single-family house… but Rick’s advice above is really valuable! Definitely take your time!!!
Besides that, external connections (including LAN), plenty of LAN ports (especially in the utility room: heating, ventilation, photovoltaic & storage… everything needs to be networked), externally controllable shutters/blinds isn’t a bad idea either (we use radio motors), and a conduit for photovoltaic system wiring.