ᐅ Log Cabin with Half-Hipped Roof by the Forest – How to Improve the Design?

Created on: 11 Jun 2018 19:45
K
keychain
Hello everyone,

We have been planning and actively reading for over a year now. As our plans become more concrete, we would like to present our design and get your feedback.
First of all: Yes, the house is big. It is our dream, we are doing a lot of the work ourselves, and we know that we cannot extend it further — the situation here is a bit unusual, as strictly speaking this is only officially buildable land for a short time window.

A brief introduction: I am 36 years old and co-owner of an IT company. My partner is 31 and works as a lecturer. About two years ago, we found our dream plot — a little over 2800sqm (about 0.7 acres), with direct forest access and located in the third row. All neighboring plots are, as far as possible, already built on, mostly with former weekend houses or residential homes.

First, the questionnaire:

Building plan / restrictions?
No, there is no building plan, so we are following common local building standards. The neighboring house has two full stories, which we are using as a reference.

Plot size
2800sqm (about 0.7 acres)

Slope
Slight slope; we are on a ridge of the Ore Mountains. The building site has a height difference of max. 60cm (about 2 feet) from northeast to southwest. The entire plot slopes about 1.80m (6 feet) downward to the south along the west boundary. Rocky ground starting at 2.5m (8 feet) depth.

Plot ratio / floor area ratio
No exact figures known; according to the lawyer from the building permit office, we are well within limits.

Building envelope, building line and boundary
None

Boundary setbacks
Do you mean setback distances and boundary construction? If so: 3m (10 feet) all around; boundary construction for sheds and garages is theoretically permitted.

Number of parking spaces
1–2 under the porch + double garage.

Number of floors
2

Roof type
Half-hipped roof (Dutch hip roof).

Architectural style
Hmm... not sure?

Orientation
South-southwest

Maximum height/limits
None

Other requirements

Homeowners’ needs
We want our house to welcome us. Warm wood, natural building materials, lots of light and air — high ceilings, large beams. It should blend well with the environment, be warm and cozy.

Style, roof type, building type
Log house made from glue-laminated beams (probably Finnlog).

Basement, floors
Fully basemented with two full floors.

Number of residents, age
Currently 2 people. Children may come, parents as well.

Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor
Currently about 300sqm (about 3200 sqft). This seems quite large, but looking at individual rooms (living/dining area) I don’t know where else to put the sound system. Maybe the planning is off or our space expectations are. We don’t have a TV; the fireplace is the central element.

Office: family use or home office?
An office is planned, but only as a fallback. I don’t want to work from home and only need space for private files and a desk.

Guest bedrooms per year
Variable, currently very few. Hopefully many more with the house — then we can accommodate them.

Open or closed architecture
Mixed. I prefer open, but an open void above the living area is not possible if you don’t want all cooking smells in the bedroom.

Traditional or modern construction
Hmm... solid wood house? Traditional.

Open kitchen, cooking island
An open, large kitchen with a big island where more than two people can cook comfortably. No seating in the kitchen, but a huge workspace.

Number of dining seats
10

Fireplace
Yes, a large soapstone stove.

Music / stereo wall
I am considering installating a Sonos system with a music room in the basement.

Balcony, roof terrace
No; we have a garden for that.

Garage, carport
Both; at least the entrance canopy is large enough for one car.

Vegetable garden, greenhouse
We want a greenhouse, a swimming pond, and a fire pit.

Other wishes / special features / daily routine, including reasons why or why not

House design
Who designed it:
The design was created with an architect, based on our drafts.

What do you particularly like? Why?
High ceilings and visible ceiling beams on the upper floor, separated area upstairs for us, the fireplace room as a second retreat, the single-story “extension” for the dining room, the large kitchen, the fireplaces... and especially the abundant wood.

What don’t you like? Why?
The gable windows should get an added triangular top to maximize light. The current window layout feels a bit outdated. We actually wanted an open void, but this can’t be sensibly integrated. Heating is a constant issue and never fully resolved.
The worst: the master bathroom fixtures. We want a large bathtub and a double shower. Either the bathroom is too small or we lack imagination. It doesn’t look cozy...

Preferred heating system: currently unfortunately natural gas. Solid fuel heating is out for various reasons: a wood gasifier is too expensive and labor-intensive; pellet or woodchip stoves are not economical, plus we can’t reliably get deliveries in winter when the road is snowed in. Natural gas is about 100m (330 feet) away; we are still waiting for connection cost estimates. Heat pumps only make financial sense with geothermal; however, installation and technology would then be more expensive than a current compact car. We do not want oil heating or liquefied gas tanks.

If you have to omit something, which details/extensions
-can you omit:
-can you not omit:

Why is the design like it is now? For example:
The architect received a draft from us, every room was discussed beforehand (use, size, contents), and the design was revised multiple times. We like that it implements nearly everything we wanted and that the house does not look too bulky — due to the half-hipped roof and the gables, it does not seem so on the plans at least.

What is your most important / basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
Apart from the effort for plastering: is the floor plan practical? For example: washing machine on the first floor where laundry occurs, bathroom for the children...

Now some free text — our notes:

Some things are already different from the plans:
  • All windows can be opened.
  • Sliding doors open outwards, not inwards.
  • All dormer windows will not be rectangular but have added triangular tops.
  • Between the hallway and living area there is no central post; instead, a large double door is planned.
  • The basement has a technical room beside the stairs, designed as a through room. In my opinion, this is a poor solution; we probably also need to plan a separate boiler room.
  • Where the embankment is drawn, doors will be installed. This will allow the large rooms to get natural daylight and be usable living space.
  • The stair step projecting into the hallway is bad and will definitely be removed.


We have also been thinking about other things:
  • The hallway upstairs is planned as a “library.” To bring in light, we intend to use two light wells with diameters of 30–35cm (12–14 inches). The advantage: it will never be completely dark at night when someone needs to use the bathroom.
  • The fireplace will be a soapstone stove; no plan exists yet. Strictly speaking, it will not stand against a wall but form the wall itself. We also planned a second connection in the fireplace room; originally we wanted a tunnel fireplace but were convinced it’s not a good idea as a room divider.
  • The children’s rooms are not ideal — one faces north, the other south. We could make two narrow, elongated rooms and a corridor so both face south, but we consider that clearly suboptimal.
  • All doors on the ground floor will be 1m (3.3 feet) wide to at least accommodate wheelchair access reasonably.

I think that’s it. Thanks for your opinions!

Site plan of a plot with parcel boundaries, border lines, and buildable areas


Basement floor plan: rooms K1–K6, stairs, doors, dimensions


Ground floor plan: two living areas, kitchen, guest room, office, terraces, carport.


Upper floor plan: three bedrooms, two bathrooms, dressing room, and hallway.


Front view of a two-story wooden house with carport and car in front.


Front view of a two-story wooden house with gable roof, windows, entrance, and basement windows.


Cross-section of a multi-story wooden house with basement, foundations, windows, and roof pitch.
kaho67413 Jun 2018 14:45
Well, the kitchen is definitely large enough.
So, the pantry needs to be repainted.
K
keychain
13 Jun 2018 14:50
Thank you for your information. If necessary, we will install double insulation around the pipes, then it should work.

The exterior walls with a thickness of 270mm (10.6 inches) are not typical, no. Normally, walls are 180mm (7 inches) or possibly even less. From what I understand, fewer people choose 240mm (9.4 inches) or 270mm (10.6 inches). However, the thermal insulation is especially good with this thickness, particularly in summer, so for me, it’s worth it.

One more question about the stairs: If there is no landing, but that should be the lower part, don’t you have to keep a depth of 1m (3.3 feet) clear where the wall currently is? It’s still not entirely clear to me how you actually get up there… And does the basement staircase then lead down from the pantry? Or is it the other way around, but then when you go upstairs, you end up right in front of the wall on the upper floor?

We will make another round of drawings. If anyone has any suggestions: feel free to share them.
kaho67413 Jun 2018 15:01
Okay, maybe that was confusing. I didn’t include the side walls of the staircase in the drawing because they are not meant to be full walls, but wooden walls made by a carpenter.

Maybe this makes it clearer:


Grundriss eines Hauses mit Gästezimmer, Wohnen, Büro, Küche und zentraler Treppe (Auf-/Abstieg).


The staircase landing turns 1/4 each time.
kaho67413 Jun 2018 15:04
I already thought the 27cm (11 inches) walls were quite thin. But I guess things are different when it comes to log houses.
K
keychain
13 Jun 2018 15:29
Will the staircase with the 2m (6 ft 7 in) height clearance work without hitting your head? It looks to me like the staircase, at least the basement stairs, would have to be extremely steep. Maybe it can be adjusted by shifting it a bit to the right on the first floor—I’ll give it a try with my drawing skills.

Regarding insulation values, solid wood can be equivalent to a brick wall three times as thick, according to the timber house sellers. Everyone we have spoken to so far has had no problems with insulation, even with significantly thinner walls. We’ll have to see how the heating costs turn out later.
kaho67413 Jun 2018 15:48
It should work with the staircase at a 330 floor height and 300 ceiling height. It will look approximately like this:


Technical drawing of an interior staircase with dimensions, openings, and colored line guidance.


I always calculate staircases with a 1:1 slope for spiral stairs.

Headroom should be over 2.60 m (8 ft 6 in) with a 300 cm (10 ft) room height. Please confirm the exact ceiling height and floor-to-floor height again – otherwise, I might get lost trying to find it...