ᐅ Is it possible to have an Ikea PAX wardrobe with a width of 3 meters and three sliding doors?
Created on: 24 May 2014 13:22
J
johndoe_6546J
johndoe_654624 May 2014 13:22Hello everyone,
unfortunately, I couldn’t find any information on the IKEA website regarding my question, so I’m reaching out to the experts here.
I currently have a Pax wardrobe that is 2 meters wide (one 1m and two 0.5m frames) and 2.36 meters (7 ft 9 in) high with two sliding doors, each 1 meter wide. I would like to extend it by 1 meter and am wondering if I can simply add another 1-meter sliding door. The idea is that the outer doors would slide under the middle door, and the front door could slide either left or right. In principle, this should be possible, but does anyone have experience with this?
The planner tool doesn’t allow for this, and I would prefer not to switch to 1.5-meter-wide doors, as they seem a bit too bulky for my taste... but if 1.5-meter-wide doors exist, there should presumably also be a running track available for 3 meters, right?
Thank you very much.
unfortunately, I couldn’t find any information on the IKEA website regarding my question, so I’m reaching out to the experts here.
I currently have a Pax wardrobe that is 2 meters wide (one 1m and two 0.5m frames) and 2.36 meters (7 ft 9 in) high with two sliding doors, each 1 meter wide. I would like to extend it by 1 meter and am wondering if I can simply add another 1-meter sliding door. The idea is that the outer doors would slide under the middle door, and the front door could slide either left or right. In principle, this should be possible, but does anyone have experience with this?
The planner tool doesn’t allow for this, and I would prefer not to switch to 1.5-meter-wide doors, as they seem a bit too bulky for my taste... but if 1.5-meter-wide doors exist, there should presumably also be a running track available for 3 meters, right?
Thank you very much.
I
IKEA-Experte27 May 2014 15:45Hello,
such an extension is not planned. You would need to cut the 2 m (6 ft 7 in) rail to the appropriate length. The side finish will not fit perfectly, as the left and right side trims differ. Depending on how old your PAX is, the rails might not be compatible with each other. There could also be other difficulties that you will need to find solutions for.
There is no 3 m (9 ft 10 in) long rail. The 1.50 m (5 ft) wide sliding doors consist of two 75 cm (30 inches) wide panels. You can only place two 150 cm (5 ft) wide wardrobes side by side.
such an extension is not planned. You would need to cut the 2 m (6 ft 7 in) rail to the appropriate length. The side finish will not fit perfectly, as the left and right side trims differ. Depending on how old your PAX is, the rails might not be compatible with each other. There could also be other difficulties that you will need to find solutions for.
There is no 3 m (9 ft 10 in) long rail. The 1.50 m (5 ft) wide sliding doors consist of two 75 cm (30 inches) wide panels. You can only place two 150 cm (5 ft) wide wardrobes side by side.
Hello,
Yes, it is possible! However, there are a few limitations:
Drawers are only possible in the middle:
The sliding doors are about 1 cm (0.4 inches) wider than the cabinet body to avoid any gaps when closed. Normally, this is not an issue because the left wall of the right cabinet is also 1 cm (0.4 inches) thick, so the opened sliding door does not block anything.
However, if two doors run on one track and are pushed together to open, they measure 202 cm (79.5 inches) in width, while the interior of the third cabinet starts at 201 cm (79 inches). You can just about open a drawer, but over time the doors would definitely get damaged.
Therefore, we installed clothes rails on the right and left sides and created a unit to divide the cabinet at the bottom. This allows installing 50 cm (20 inches) wide drawers at the ends.
Regarding the sliding door dampers:
We designed it so that the middle door is the front one; otherwise, it would be difficult to open. Therefore, the middle door cannot have a damper, but you can install dampers on the right and left doors. The issue here is that you need the component that locks the rear door into the damper twice. However, the kit only contains one part for the rear and one for the front door. I am currently trying to get the missing part through the replacement parts service. Naturally, the middle door has no locking point, although I have considered whether it might be possible to achieve this by adding a recess or bump on the track.
Regarding the rails:
The top rail has proven to be less complicated in our case. We simply extended it with a 1-meter (3.3 feet) piece and connected it between the cabinets. To ensure a good fit, the extension piece was trimmed on the outside for a neat joint. For this reason, two new holes need to be drilled at the ends.
For the bottom rail, this approach does not work as well because it has cutouts and does not sit on top of the cabinet like the upper rail. Therefore, we made the 3-meter (9.8 feet) rail from about 1.75 m (5.7 feet) + 1.25 m (4.1 feet) and cut both rails down a bit. This way, the rail is better fixed because both ends can be screwed to the base plate side by side. This requires precise work and careful deburring/round filing, as the glider will otherwise catch at the joint between the rails.
Additionally, it is important to protect the rail at the joint from twisting at the bottom. A 1 mm (0.04 inches) twist would already cause the door to catch. To prevent this, we screwed a piece of wood from above between the baseboard and the rail. In our case, the baseboard is also positioned a bit further back and not flush with the side walls.
We bought the first cabinet around April 2018 and the second in April 2021. There were no changes in between. We are very satisfied with the result.
Have fun building it yourself!
-Daniel
Yes, it is possible! However, there are a few limitations:
Drawers are only possible in the middle:
The sliding doors are about 1 cm (0.4 inches) wider than the cabinet body to avoid any gaps when closed. Normally, this is not an issue because the left wall of the right cabinet is also 1 cm (0.4 inches) thick, so the opened sliding door does not block anything.
However, if two doors run on one track and are pushed together to open, they measure 202 cm (79.5 inches) in width, while the interior of the third cabinet starts at 201 cm (79 inches). You can just about open a drawer, but over time the doors would definitely get damaged.
Therefore, we installed clothes rails on the right and left sides and created a unit to divide the cabinet at the bottom. This allows installing 50 cm (20 inches) wide drawers at the ends.
Regarding the sliding door dampers:
We designed it so that the middle door is the front one; otherwise, it would be difficult to open. Therefore, the middle door cannot have a damper, but you can install dampers on the right and left doors. The issue here is that you need the component that locks the rear door into the damper twice. However, the kit only contains one part for the rear and one for the front door. I am currently trying to get the missing part through the replacement parts service. Naturally, the middle door has no locking point, although I have considered whether it might be possible to achieve this by adding a recess or bump on the track.
Regarding the rails:
The top rail has proven to be less complicated in our case. We simply extended it with a 1-meter (3.3 feet) piece and connected it between the cabinets. To ensure a good fit, the extension piece was trimmed on the outside for a neat joint. For this reason, two new holes need to be drilled at the ends.
For the bottom rail, this approach does not work as well because it has cutouts and does not sit on top of the cabinet like the upper rail. Therefore, we made the 3-meter (9.8 feet) rail from about 1.75 m (5.7 feet) + 1.25 m (4.1 feet) and cut both rails down a bit. This way, the rail is better fixed because both ends can be screwed to the base plate side by side. This requires precise work and careful deburring/round filing, as the glider will otherwise catch at the joint between the rails.
Additionally, it is important to protect the rail at the joint from twisting at the bottom. A 1 mm (0.04 inches) twist would already cause the door to catch. To prevent this, we screwed a piece of wood from above between the baseboard and the rail. In our case, the baseboard is also positioned a bit further back and not flush with the side walls.
We bought the first cabinet around April 2018 and the second in April 2021. There were no changes in between. We are very satisfied with the result.
Have fun building it yourself!
-Daniel
S
saralina8723 Apr 2021 06:51dma1234 schrieb:
Hello,
Yes, that is possible! However, there are a few limitations:
Drawers are only possible in the middle:
The sliding doors are about 10mm (0.4 inches) wider than the cabinet frame to prevent gaps when closed. Usually, this is not an issue because the left wall of the right cabinet is also 10mm (0.4 inches) thick, so the opened sliding door is not in the way.
However, when two doors run on the same track and are slid open together, they measure 202cm (79.5 inches) wide, but the interior of the third cabinet begins at 201cm (79.1 inches). You can just about open a drawer, but over time the doors will definitely get damaged.
Therefore, we installed clothes rails on the right and left and use a partition to split the lower part of the cabinet. This allows for 50cm (19.7 inches) wide drawers to be installed at the ends.
Regarding the sliding door dampers:
We built it so that the middle door is the front door; otherwise, it would be difficult to open. The middle door cannot have a damper, but you can install them on the right and left doors. The problem is that you need two of the components that secure the rear door to the damper. The kit only includes one part for the rear door and one for the front door. I am currently trying to get the missing part through the IKEA replacement parts service. Obviously, the middle door does not have a locking point, though I have considered whether this could be achieved with a recess or bump on the track.
About the tracks:
The upper track proved to be easier to handle. We simply extended it with a 1-meter (3.3 feet) piece and joined it between the cabinets. To make a clean fit, the extension piece was trimmed on the outside so the joint is as neat as possible. For this reason, two holes had to be drilled at the ends.
This is not as easy with the lower track because it has cutouts and does not sit on top of the cabinet like the upper one. We built the 3-meter (9.8 feet) length from about 1.75m (5.7 feet) + 1.25m (4.1 feet), cutting both tracks a bit. This way, the track can be better fixed because both ends can be screwed to the baseplate side by side. You need to work precisely and carefully deburr and round off everything because otherwise the slider will catch at the joint between the tracks.
Additionally, it is important at the bottom to protect the track from twisting at the seam. Even a 1mm (0.04 inches) twist causes the door to catch. To prevent this, we screwed a piece of wood from above between the kickboard and the track. In our case, the kickboard is also positioned one hole further back and is not flush with the side walls.
We bought the first cabinet around April 2018 and the second in April 2021. There were no changes in between. We are very satisfied with the result.
Have fun building it yourself!
-DanielWhere do you guys always dig up these ancient threads? Seven years! SEVEN!saralina87 schrieb:
Where do you always dig up these ancient threads? Seven years old! SEVEN!This was the top result on Google 🙂 - Besides, the topic of Pax is a perennial favorite.Similar topics