Hello everyone, I have unfortunately noticed some damage on the edges of my Malm nightstand from IKEA – the surfaces are chipped in several areas and it looks quite untidy. I am particularly interested in how to best repair these damaged edges so that the appearance remains as close to the original as possible and the stability is not compromised. I am curious both about the repair process using suitable materials (e.g., wood filler, edge banding, touch-up pens, glue) and about tool recommendations or how to ideally prepare and treat the damaged spots. Does anyone have experience or useful suggestions?
A bit of background: the nightstand has a laminate surface and is made of particleboard, so I’m unsure whether sanding is advisable or if other methods work better. I would really appreciate your help – tips on the proper procedure, products used, or alternatives that work well. Thanks in advance!
A bit of background: the nightstand has a laminate surface and is made of particleboard, so I’m unsure whether sanding is advisable or if other methods work better. I would really appreciate your help – tips on the proper procedure, products used, or alternatives that work well. Thanks in advance!
I repaired similar damage on my Malm nightstand and would like to share what helped me:
First, I carefully removed loose film residues using a utility knife. Then, I sanded the edge with 320-grit sandpaper to create a clean, rough surface for better adhesive bonding.
For small cracks and chips, I used water-based wood filler, which is easy to shape. I applied several very thin layers, sanding and repairing between each to avoid unevenness. This is important to ensure the surface looks uniform afterward.
Next, I ironed on a flexible edge band with a film backing. This works best when you press the band quickly but precisely with an iron (medium heat, no steam). Important: Do not hold the iron in one spot too long, as the film can melt.
Finally, I touched up the transitions with a matching furniture marker and polished with a soft cloth. The result is an almost invisible repair that does not affect the stability.
First, I carefully removed loose film residues using a utility knife. Then, I sanded the edge with 320-grit sandpaper to create a clean, rough surface for better adhesive bonding.
For small cracks and chips, I used water-based wood filler, which is easy to shape. I applied several very thin layers, sanding and repairing between each to avoid unevenness. This is important to ensure the surface looks uniform afterward.
Next, I ironed on a flexible edge band with a film backing. This works best when you press the band quickly but precisely with an iron (medium heat, no steam). Important: Do not hold the iron in one spot too long, as the film can melt.
Finally, I touched up the transitions with a matching furniture marker and polished with a soft cloth. The result is an almost invisible repair that does not affect the stability.
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