Hello everyone,
I have several IKEA Malm dressers that I would like to securely attach to the wall to prevent tipping accidents. I am aware that IKEA includes anti-tip devices, but in my older building (older walls, partly drywall and partly solid construction), I have concerns about whether these devices are sufficient and how to best fasten them.
Questions I have:
- What fastening methods are generally recommended for Malm furniture to securely fix them to different types of walls?
- Are there specific anchors or screws that are better suited for drywall compared to concrete?
- What do you think about additional safety measures like brackets or metal supports behind the furniture?
I want to proceed as safely as possible without unnecessarily affecting the appearance. I would appreciate factual, detailed advice, including any experience you may have. Thanks!
I have several IKEA Malm dressers that I would like to securely attach to the wall to prevent tipping accidents. I am aware that IKEA includes anti-tip devices, but in my older building (older walls, partly drywall and partly solid construction), I have concerns about whether these devices are sufficient and how to best fasten them.
Questions I have:
- What fastening methods are generally recommended for Malm furniture to securely fix them to different types of walls?
- Are there specific anchors or screws that are better suited for drywall compared to concrete?
- What do you think about additional safety measures like brackets or metal supports behind the furniture?
I want to proceed as safely as possible without unnecessarily affecting the appearance. I would appreciate factual, detailed advice, including any experience you may have. Thanks!
Regarding the installation frame / mounting board:
This method is commonly used in professional furniture installation to distribute loads over a wide area and to counteract tipping forces. In DIY projects, it is very useful when the wall structure requires it.
The board should be as solid as possible and at least 18 mm (0.7 inches) thick, ideally plywood or laminated solid wood. Mounting to the wall must be done with large, heavy-duty anchors and screws. Afterwards, the cabinet is securely screwed to the board.
Advantages:
- Loads are effectively transferred to the wall
- Tipping resistance is strong and durable
- Minimizes modifications to the cabinet itself, preserving appearance
Disadvantages:
- Visible if no covers are used
- Requires more craftsmanship and materials
I can highly recommend this solution for families with children and older walls.
This method is commonly used in professional furniture installation to distribute loads over a wide area and to counteract tipping forces. In DIY projects, it is very useful when the wall structure requires it.
The board should be as solid as possible and at least 18 mm (0.7 inches) thick, ideally plywood or laminated solid wood. Mounting to the wall must be done with large, heavy-duty anchors and screws. Afterwards, the cabinet is securely screwed to the board.
Advantages:
- Loads are effectively transferred to the wall
- Tipping resistance is strong and durable
- Minimizes modifications to the cabinet itself, preserving appearance
Disadvantages:
- Visible if no covers are used
- Requires more craftsmanship and materials
I can highly recommend this solution for families with children and older walls.
I would like to share my experience since I have dealt extensively with Malm dressers and anti-tip devices.
General guidelines:
- Safety should always come before aesthetics. Child safety is extremely important.
- When working with drywall (plasterboard), always use metal toggle anchors; plastic anchors often don’t hold up over time.
- To prevent tipping, at least one attachment should be secured at the top of the wall, with screws embedded deeply enough in solid material.
- During installation: carefully pre-drill holes, insert anchors according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and do not overtighten screws to avoid damaging the drywall.
A small tip: After installation, gently try to tip the dresser. If it doesn’t move, you’re on the safe side.
If possible, it’s advisable to install additional safety attachments lower down or to the sides — this creates multiple load points and increases stability.
General guidelines:
- Safety should always come before aesthetics. Child safety is extremely important.
- When working with drywall (plasterboard), always use metal toggle anchors; plastic anchors often don’t hold up over time.
- To prevent tipping, at least one attachment should be secured at the top of the wall, with screws embedded deeply enough in solid material.
- During installation: carefully pre-drill holes, insert anchors according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and do not overtighten screws to avoid damaging the drywall.
A small tip: After installation, gently try to tip the dresser. If it doesn’t move, you’re on the safe side.
If possible, it’s advisable to install additional safety attachments lower down or to the sides — this creates multiple load points and increases stability.
BAUEVA schrieb:
Does anyone here have experience with how a mounting frame behind a chest of drawers affects stability?I regularly use mounted wooden panels as distribution elements on older walls. They significantly stabilize the fastenings and make it easier to adjust the furniture after installation. The panel should be able to bear the load, which is especially important for chests of drawers with drawers.
As PLOMA mentioned, choosing the right anchors and screw lengths is crucial. A mounting plate is a very good addition, especially when the wall is unevenly loaded or when different materials meet.
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