Hello everyone,
I have several IKEA Malm dressers that I would like to securely attach to the wall to prevent tipping accidents. I am aware that IKEA includes anti-tip devices, but in my older building (older walls, partly drywall and partly solid construction), I have concerns about whether these devices are sufficient and how to best fasten them.
Questions I have:
- What fastening methods are generally recommended for Malm furniture to securely fix them to different types of walls?
- Are there specific anchors or screws that are better suited for drywall compared to concrete?
- What do you think about additional safety measures like brackets or metal supports behind the furniture?
I want to proceed as safely as possible without unnecessarily affecting the appearance. I would appreciate factual, detailed advice, including any experience you may have. Thanks!
I have several IKEA Malm dressers that I would like to securely attach to the wall to prevent tipping accidents. I am aware that IKEA includes anti-tip devices, but in my older building (older walls, partly drywall and partly solid construction), I have concerns about whether these devices are sufficient and how to best fasten them.
Questions I have:
- What fastening methods are generally recommended for Malm furniture to securely fix them to different types of walls?
- Are there specific anchors or screws that are better suited for drywall compared to concrete?
- What do you think about additional safety measures like brackets or metal supports behind the furniture?
I want to proceed as safely as possible without unnecessarily affecting the appearance. I would appreciate factual, detailed advice, including any experience you may have. Thanks!
Hello Mibe60,
For securely mounting Malm dressers to the wall, it is essential first to correctly identify the wall type. For concrete walls, standard anchors and screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm (0.24 inches) are suitable. For drywall (plasterboard) walls, special cavity anchors should be used to distribute the weight effectively.
The anti-tip straps supplied by IKEA are designed for interior walls with a solid supporting structure, but additional reinforcement may be necessary for drywall.
Additional brackets or metal braces are advisable if they can be installed within the back panel, ensuring that the load is always transferred to a solid structural element.
In short: choose anchors according to the wall type, use screws of minimum size, and for drywall, always use cavity or toggle anchors. Add metal brackets for reinforcement whenever possible.
For securely mounting Malm dressers to the wall, it is essential first to correctly identify the wall type. For concrete walls, standard anchors and screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm (0.24 inches) are suitable. For drywall (plasterboard) walls, special cavity anchors should be used to distribute the weight effectively.
The anti-tip straps supplied by IKEA are designed for interior walls with a solid supporting structure, but additional reinforcement may be necessary for drywall.
Additional brackets or metal braces are advisable if they can be installed within the back panel, ensuring that the load is always transferred to a solid structural element.
In short: choose anchors according to the wall type, use screws of minimum size, and for drywall, always use cavity or toggle anchors. Add metal brackets for reinforcement whenever possible.
Hello Mibe60,
to address your issue more precisely, here are a few technical details:
1. Check the wall material: Solid walls (concrete, brick) can hold anchors and screws of any strength. You can easily use 8 mm (5/16 inch) anchors and screws here, which will safely support the weight. For drywall (plasterboard), you should use metal cavity anchors. Common plastic cavity anchors often do not have sufficient load capacity for a fully loaded dresser.
2. Attachment points on the Malm: IKEA usually uses two fastening points on the upper back panel. If the dresser is taller or fully loaded with drawers, I recommend installing additional brackets on the sides to reduce tipping moments.
3. Screw length: Screws should be long enough to be anchored at least 40–50 mm (1 5/8–2 inches) behind the anchor in the masonry.
4. Mounting aids: A metal bracket made of galvanized steel with a base area of about 40 x 40 mm (1 5/8 x 1 5/8 inches) and 3 mm (1/8 inch) thickness provides additional safety.
5. Caution when drilling into old building walls: If there are wooden studs behind, you should specifically anchor the screws into these. Using a stud finder may help.
If you like, please describe in more detail what types of walls you are dealing with, how old the dressers are, and whether you have children in the household – this can affect the requirements further.
I hope this helps you for now.
to address your issue more precisely, here are a few technical details:
1. Check the wall material: Solid walls (concrete, brick) can hold anchors and screws of any strength. You can easily use 8 mm (5/16 inch) anchors and screws here, which will safely support the weight. For drywall (plasterboard), you should use metal cavity anchors. Common plastic cavity anchors often do not have sufficient load capacity for a fully loaded dresser.
2. Attachment points on the Malm: IKEA usually uses two fastening points on the upper back panel. If the dresser is taller or fully loaded with drawers, I recommend installing additional brackets on the sides to reduce tipping moments.
3. Screw length: Screws should be long enough to be anchored at least 40–50 mm (1 5/8–2 inches) behind the anchor in the masonry.
4. Mounting aids: A metal bracket made of galvanized steel with a base area of about 40 x 40 mm (1 5/8 x 1 5/8 inches) and 3 mm (1/8 inch) thickness provides additional safety.
5. Caution when drilling into old building walls: If there are wooden studs behind, you should specifically anchor the screws into these. Using a stud finder may help.
If you like, please describe in more detail what types of walls you are dealing with, how old the dressers are, and whether you have children in the household – this can affect the requirements further.
I hope this helps you for now.
In addition to PLOMA, I would like to add:
- When working with drywall, always ensure load distribution by using metal anchors (e.g., metal toggle bolts or toggle anchors). Plastic anchors are not ideal in this case.
- For concrete walls, use large-sized, tested expansion anchors or hammer-set anchors.
- Safety of the fastening should always take priority over aesthetics – if necessary, it is better to install the anti-tip device visibly in less obtrusive locations.
- The included anti-tip devices from IKEA are only rated for lighter loads and are not designed for heavy loads or frequent drawer use.
When it comes to safety, I recommend securing at least two points on a solid surface with appropriate anchors and reinforcing against tipping moments with additional metal brackets.
- When working with drywall, always ensure load distribution by using metal anchors (e.g., metal toggle bolts or toggle anchors). Plastic anchors are not ideal in this case.
- For concrete walls, use large-sized, tested expansion anchors or hammer-set anchors.
- Safety of the fastening should always take priority over aesthetics – if necessary, it is better to install the anti-tip device visibly in less obtrusive locations.
- The included anti-tip devices from IKEA are only rated for lighter loads and are not designed for heavy loads or frequent drawer use.
When it comes to safety, I recommend securing at least two points on a solid surface with appropriate anchors and reinforcing against tipping moments with additional metal brackets.
F
FAVALERIE931 May 2023 10:45Short and precise:
For drywall: metal toggle anchors.
For concrete: heavy-duty anchors.
Screws at least 6 mm (1/4 inch) thick, 60 mm (2 3/8 inches) long.
Always secure at two points.
Metal brackets provide extra stability.
For drywall: metal toggle anchors.
For concrete: heavy-duty anchors.
Screws at least 6 mm (1/4 inch) thick, 60 mm (2 3/8 inches) long.
Always secure at two points.
Metal brackets provide extra stability.
Thanks for the detailed tips so far!
Regarding the wall construction: The main wall in my bedroom is solid brick. However, the adjacent panels around the dressers are actually drywall. So the screws will partly go into the solid wall and partly through the drywall.
Are there any differences when fastening in this case? For example, can you screw through the drywall directly into the masonry behind it, or is it better to use two separate fastenings (one anchored in the masonry and one in the drywall using cavity anchors)?
The dressers are all Malm models at a standard height of about 78cm (31 inches). There are small children in the household, which naturally makes safety more important. The drawers are frequently used and are also heavily loaded.
Regarding the wall construction: The main wall in my bedroom is solid brick. However, the adjacent panels around the dressers are actually drywall. So the screws will partly go into the solid wall and partly through the drywall.
Are there any differences when fastening in this case? For example, can you screw through the drywall directly into the masonry behind it, or is it better to use two separate fastenings (one anchored in the masonry and one in the drywall using cavity anchors)?
The dressers are all Malm models at a standard height of about 78cm (31 inches). There are small children in the household, which naturally makes safety more important. The drawers are frequently used and are also heavily loaded.
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