ᐅ Garage with smooth metal panel walls (steel sheet) or timber frame construction
Created on: 22 Jul 2016 10:40
K
krock1200
Hello everyone,
We are planning to build a garage measuring 6x8m (20x26 feet). A prefabricated concrete garage is not an option for us because
a) the driveway and courtyard are already paved,
b) we require a special height (clearance height of at least 2.12m (7 feet)), and
c) it is comparatively too expensive.
Therefore, we are considering either a prefabricated smooth wall garage (steel sheet) or a timber frame construction.
Both options would have a solid appearance, meaning they would be plastered. We have spoken with quite a few suppliers, and of course, each promotes their own product.
Visually, we find the timber garage a bit more attractive because it looks more substantial and does not clearly reveal the modular construction principle (joints, screws).
However, we wonder about the long-term durability. Many manufacturers of both types offer a 10-year warranty.
We live at about 600 meters (2,000 feet) above sea level, so it is consistently 5-6°C (9-11°F) cooler here, and winters are harsher and more humid. Should we expect cracks or the need for repairs with wood? Which garage type is better regarding condensation?
Does anyone have long-term experience with a timber or steel garage? Thank you very much for any feedback and insights.
We are planning to build a garage measuring 6x8m (20x26 feet). A prefabricated concrete garage is not an option for us because
a) the driveway and courtyard are already paved,
b) we require a special height (clearance height of at least 2.12m (7 feet)), and
c) it is comparatively too expensive.
Therefore, we are considering either a prefabricated smooth wall garage (steel sheet) or a timber frame construction.
Both options would have a solid appearance, meaning they would be plastered. We have spoken with quite a few suppliers, and of course, each promotes their own product.
Visually, we find the timber garage a bit more attractive because it looks more substantial and does not clearly reveal the modular construction principle (joints, screws).
However, we wonder about the long-term durability. Many manufacturers of both types offer a 10-year warranty.
We live at about 600 meters (2,000 feet) above sea level, so it is consistently 5-6°C (9-11°F) cooler here, and winters are harsher and more humid. Should we expect cracks or the need for repairs with wood? Which garage type is better regarding condensation?
Does anyone have long-term experience with a timber or steel garage? Thank you very much for any feedback and insights.
Metal naturally expands when heated, so the entire structure will move slightly. Metal does not absorb any moisture, but it can easily allow condensation to form. Without appropriate internal cladding, the inside can quickly turn into a dripping cave. That’s why carport metal roofs usually have a layer of felt attached underneath.
Metal can be protected from the weather using different methods. The simplest is probably hot-dip galvanizing (electro-galvanizing is usually not sufficient for permanent outdoor exposure in rain). It can also be powder coated. Both methods have the drawback that any chips or even scratches down to the bare metal will inevitably cause rust (or require repainting).
There are also stainless steels, specifically grades V2A and V4A (1.4301 / 1.4571 and similar). V2A is theoretically suitable for outdoor use but not durable enough in the long term. Most door handles are made from V2A. Surface rust tends to form on it.
If you want to do it really well, use V4A. This is seawater-resistant and won’t corrode for 5,000 years. Unfortunately, this is not affordable for most amateurs.
To summarize:
- Hot-dip galvanizing is cheap and durable but doesn’t look very stylish.
- Powder coating is a bit more expensive but allows the metal to be any color. As long as the coating is intact everywhere, it lasts well.
The downside of metal is that after a few years, surface maintenance is significantly more difficult compared to materials like wood. With wood, you just sand off (or through) the old layer and repaint. Removing the old layer from metal—whether powder coating in the garden or hot-dip galvanizing—is no easier. Spray cans on large metal surfaces are just a poor fix.
However, I expect that manufacturers of prefabricated garages likely have options for refinishing their surfaces.
A carport is more open, with constant airflow. This means there is less moisture buildup than in an enclosed garage.
Metal can be protected from the weather using different methods. The simplest is probably hot-dip galvanizing (electro-galvanizing is usually not sufficient for permanent outdoor exposure in rain). It can also be powder coated. Both methods have the drawback that any chips or even scratches down to the bare metal will inevitably cause rust (or require repainting).
There are also stainless steels, specifically grades V2A and V4A (1.4301 / 1.4571 and similar). V2A is theoretically suitable for outdoor use but not durable enough in the long term. Most door handles are made from V2A. Surface rust tends to form on it.
If you want to do it really well, use V4A. This is seawater-resistant and won’t corrode for 5,000 years. Unfortunately, this is not affordable for most amateurs.
To summarize:
- Hot-dip galvanizing is cheap and durable but doesn’t look very stylish.
- Powder coating is a bit more expensive but allows the metal to be any color. As long as the coating is intact everywhere, it lasts well.
The downside of metal is that after a few years, surface maintenance is significantly more difficult compared to materials like wood. With wood, you just sand off (or through) the old layer and repaint. Removing the old layer from metal—whether powder coating in the garden or hot-dip galvanizing—is no easier. Spray cans on large metal surfaces are just a poor fix.
However, I expect that manufacturers of prefabricated garages likely have options for refinishing their surfaces.
A carport is more open, with constant airflow. This means there is less moisture buildup than in an enclosed garage.
Friends of ours have a steel garage that is over 10 years old. So far, there have been no issues.
At the time, they decided against the extra cost for roof coating or underlay. Apparently, only on a few days each year and under very specific weather conditions was any droplet noticed on the cars.
Since we didn’t have 6 meters (20 feet) of width available for a double garage and based on the experience of our friends, we also chose a steel garage two years ago with dimensions of 5.40 x 9 meters (18 x 30 feet). However, we opted for the roof coating.
So far, I have nothing negative to report.
The only downside is that the options for fixing or anchoring are probably better with a wooden or concrete garage, as well as the temperature issue mentioned by @tomtom79.
For the mounting, you either have to use the systems offered by the manufacturer, which in my opinion are quite expensive, or get creative and come up with your own solution.
At the time, they decided against the extra cost for roof coating or underlay. Apparently, only on a few days each year and under very specific weather conditions was any droplet noticed on the cars.
Since we didn’t have 6 meters (20 feet) of width available for a double garage and based on the experience of our friends, we also chose a steel garage two years ago with dimensions of 5.40 x 9 meters (18 x 30 feet). However, we opted for the roof coating.
So far, I have nothing negative to report.
The only downside is that the options for fixing or anchoring are probably better with a wooden or concrete garage, as well as the temperature issue mentioned by @tomtom79.
For the mounting, you either have to use the systems offered by the manufacturer, which in my opinion are quite expensive, or get creative and come up with your own solution.
K
krock120025 Jul 2016 15:44@Musketier: Thanks for your post. Could we exchange information privately regarding suppliers, photos, and experience?
K
krock120025 Jul 2016 17:29Ok, so how? I thought I could click on your username and message you directly, but it doesn’t work. Sorry, I’m new to the forum. Or can you message me?
Musketier schrieb:
So far, I can’t say much negative either.
The only downside is that attachment options are probably better on a wooden or concrete garage, and also the temperature issue mentioned by @tomtom79.
For mounting, you either have to rely on the systems offered by the manufacturer, which in my opinion are quite expensive, or be creative and build something yourself. Could you please explain the temperature issue a bit more?
For example, if it gets very hot in summer, does the car inside the garage heat up as much as if it were parked in direct sunlight?
And can this be somewhat prevented by keeping the garage door slightly open (or more) and having a garage window open?
In winter, the car windows shouldn’t fog up, though, right?
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