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katiflokati27 Feb 2013 14:12Dear IKEA fans,
I would like to build a fully freestanding kitchen island using Faktum base cabinets. My questions are: is it possible to leave IKEA base cabinets freestanding, meaning not screwed to the wall? Are there also standard-sized cover panels for backs, or only for sides? If not, my alternative idea would be to place two 37 cm deep (15 inches) cabinets side by side (instead of a single 60 cm deep (24 inches) cabinet, which would then result in 74 cm deep (29 inches)), but how would I handle the cooktop in that case? For that, I need a base cabinet at least 60 cm deep (24 inches), right? I hope my plan is understandable.
Best regards
I would like to build a fully freestanding kitchen island using Faktum base cabinets. My questions are: is it possible to leave IKEA base cabinets freestanding, meaning not screwed to the wall? Are there also standard-sized cover panels for backs, or only for sides? If not, my alternative idea would be to place two 37 cm deep (15 inches) cabinets side by side (instead of a single 60 cm deep (24 inches) cabinet, which would then result in 74 cm deep (29 inches)), but how would I handle the cooktop in that case? For that, I need a base cabinet at least 60 cm deep (24 inches), right? I hope my plan is understandable.
Best regards
I
IKEA-Experte28 Feb 2013 15:03The cabinets will be anchored to the floor. IKEA does not provide specific fittings for this, so you need to use suitable hardware from the local hardware store depending on the situation. You can screw anything from the back that fits, such as doors. If you use the wall cabinets and place them against each other, both cabinets that face each other will need to be properly cut out at the top to fit the cooktop.
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zetterberg1 Mar 2013 10:03I see a problem with the stability.
You need to remove the rear crossbeam and either omit or shorten the back panel of the 37cm-deep (15 inches) cabinets, but both elements contribute to the stability of the cabinets themselves.
This would work if there are adjacent cabinets with crossbeams and back panels on the left and right sides, as the system is then stable as a whole.
You need to remove the rear crossbeam and either omit or shorten the back panel of the 37cm-deep (15 inches) cabinets, but both elements contribute to the stability of the cabinets themselves.
This would work if there are adjacent cabinets with crossbeams and back panels on the left and right sides, as the system is then stable as a whole.
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katiflokati1 Mar 2013 11:14Thank you very much!
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Nayla_10681 Mar 2013 11:21Hi,
IKEA expert, that's not entirely correct. There is a way to secure the base cabinets to the floor at IKEA, using UTBY legs. These basically have a kind of U-shaped bracket that is screwed into the floor, into which the legs are then inserted.
These are allowed and actually recommended for free-standing installation. Just using the plastic legs, even if you place cabinets back to back, is not enough; there MUST be anchoring to the floor. Alternatively, it’s possible to build a wooden frame under the cabinets and screw it to the cabinet bottoms, then attach the kickplates, and that’s finished. Or, another option that looks nice is to use the countertops on both sides as side panels and possibly as a back panel that reaches down to the floor.
A tip in general: it’s always best to build the island so that it doesn’t only consist of a single row but has a second "back" row connected to it. Cabinets, especially those with drawers, are top-heavy and will always have a counterbalance on the opposite side this way. If it is intended to be just a single row of cabinets, then let the countertop overhang a bit so it can be used as a seating area and support it with a leg or the above-mentioned side panels. The UTBY legs hold very firmly, but whether the chipboard of the cabinets will hold up over time remains questionable.
Regards
Nayla
IKEA expert, that's not entirely correct. There is a way to secure the base cabinets to the floor at IKEA, using UTBY legs. These basically have a kind of U-shaped bracket that is screwed into the floor, into which the legs are then inserted.
These are allowed and actually recommended for free-standing installation. Just using the plastic legs, even if you place cabinets back to back, is not enough; there MUST be anchoring to the floor. Alternatively, it’s possible to build a wooden frame under the cabinets and screw it to the cabinet bottoms, then attach the kickplates, and that’s finished. Or, another option that looks nice is to use the countertops on both sides as side panels and possibly as a back panel that reaches down to the floor.
A tip in general: it’s always best to build the island so that it doesn’t only consist of a single row but has a second "back" row connected to it. Cabinets, especially those with drawers, are top-heavy and will always have a counterbalance on the opposite side this way. If it is intended to be just a single row of cabinets, then let the countertop overhang a bit so it can be used as a seating area and support it with a leg or the above-mentioned side panels. The UTBY legs hold very firmly, but whether the chipboard of the cabinets will hold up over time remains questionable.
Regards
Nayla
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zetterberg1 Mar 2013 11:43... Alternatively, it would also be possible to build a frame under the wooden cabinets and screw it to the cabinet shelves, then attach the toe kicks in front, and it’s done. Another option, which also looks nice, is to use the countertops on both sides as side panels and possibly also as a backsplash that extends down to the floor.
...Please ensure proper ventilation if block-type electrical appliances are installed.
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