ᐅ Floor plan, post-and-beam construction, accessory dwelling unit, and existing building
Created on: 21 Feb 2023 20:48
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BucheOnBoard
Hello everyone,
Currently, my father, my wife, and my child (under 1 year old) live in a small residential house from the 1950s with 61m² (655 sq ft) of living space. The property is owned 50/50 by my father and me but is still partly being paid off by my grandmother (my outstanding payments are held in a separate account and are therefore just a “pass-through” item, while my father pays his monthly installments from his income). The plot is in Hamburg Iserbrook and measures 681m² (7,333 sq ft) with a standard land value of €985.
Unsurprisingly, the space is becoming somewhat tight, even though we get along well. Furthermore, the health of the older housemate is declining, and the narrow staircase to the upper floor is already becoming difficult to manage.
The basic idea is this: I would receive the second half of the plot as a gift, debt-free. My father will continue paying off his installments until he inherits the remainder. In return, we will build him a nice accessory apartment with the corresponding right of residence (or usufruct right, which still needs to be clarified)—barrier-free and compact so he can live independently there for as long as possible. The rest of the ground floor would then only contain a multipurpose room, guest toilet, and hallway; upstairs four rooms and a bathroom. We would like a (simple) converted attic as a retreat area. To relieve the ground floor space and avoid fully using the building envelope (sealing of surfaces, etc.), we plan a basement, as there are also two space-intensive hobbies and a workshop desired for DIY projects. I will also build some of the furniture myself.
Now to the questionnaire:
Building Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 681m² (7,333 sq ft) with existing house
Slope: No, but the area from the street level up to the terrace is filled +90cm (35 inches), the garage is at about +40cm (16 inches), the neighboring plot to the north also about +40cm (16 inches), and to the south approximately at street level
Floor area ratio (FAR): 0.4
Plot ratio (building coverage ratio): 0.4
Building envelope, building line, and boundaries: 5m (16.4 ft) setback to the street, then 15m (49.2 ft) deep, 2.5m (8.2 ft) setback on each side (more for taller buildings)
Edge development: Allowed (garages etc., max. wall height 3m (10 ft), max. length 9m (30 ft))
Number of parking spaces: We believe none are legally required; we plan to provide one for future use, for electric vehicle charging (currently not needed)
Number of floors: One full story; ALKIS shows some buildings apparently with two floors (see attachment)
Roof type: Not specified
Architectural style: Not specified
Orientation: Not specified
Maximum heights/limits: Not specified
Other requirements: No illuminated advertising signs 😉
The 1965 building plan mainly mandates “residential zoning only” and “one full story,” but even these rules seem flexible. There is a very large copper beech tree in the southeast corner of the plot, with an estimated crown diameter of 10m (33 ft) and at least 12-14m (39-46 ft) tall. The tree is to be preserved (it is unclear if it must officially be preserved with a new build). I expect that the new building must not come closer to the tree than the current building—about 2.5m (8.2 ft) from the trunk. The trunk itself is roughly 1.5m (5 ft) in diameter. A pruning plan is under discussion (also due to shading of the roof, planned for solar panels).
Owners' Requirements
Architectural style, roof shape, building type: Detached single-family home, gable roof with pitch >45°, rather long and narrow
Basement, number of floors: Yes to basement, 1.5 floors plus a converted attic
Number of occupants, ages: 4 (64 (gruff and private), 34, 31, under 1) Another child should be possible
Ground floor space needs: Open-plan area preferably with a small pantry, guest toilet
Accessory apartment with barrier-free design (walk-in shower, open living kitchen with sleeping niche). Can be small.
Shared hallway important (for potential care needs without going outside, access to joint basement with laundry facilities, etc.)
Upper floor space needs: 1 bedroom with a large bed and built-in closets but no extras, 3 rooms (1 child’s room, 1 office/child’s room, 1 guest/office (can be small)), 1 bathroom with a larger vanity, bathtub, and shower
Attic space needs: 2 “retreat” areas for the adults; if necessary, just a rocking chair with reading lamp and sewing machine on one side, and a gaming PC on the other. The current attic is an equilateral triangle with 2.1m (83 inches) side length; it doesn’t need to be much larger/wider/higher than that.
Basement space needs (access via shared hallway + additional exterior entrance): Technical room with heat pump, ventilation, electrical distribution, inverter, server; woodwork workshop; laundry room; 2 hobby cellars for large-format collections—Lego and beer cans, no kink-shaming please 😉 ; 1 storage room for decorations, suitcases, camping gear, etc. Must be heated (and ventilated), but simple tile flooring and surface-mounted installations are sufficient.
Office: Family use or home office? Home office about three times a week, plus one self-employed side business
Guest stays per year: 6–10, usually just one night, sometimes 2–3 nights
Open or closed design: Open on the ground floor but staircase not located in the living room/open space
Conservative or modern construction? I’m never quite sure of the difference, but I feel fully modern
Open kitchen, kitchen island: Yes, cooking often and joyfully, also with guests
Number of dining seats: 6; existing table extends to 14 seats for Christmas and birthdays
Fireplace: No, no chimney planned
Music/stereo wall: No
Balcony, roof terrace: No
Garage, carport: Carport/roof overhang directly at the building would be good, mainly for bikes and potentially for an electric vehicle in the (near) future. To my knowledge, Hamburg does not require parking spaces.
Vegetable garden, greenhouse: Maybe a small bed later, but not important at the moment
Other wishes/particularities/daily routine, including reasons for certain choices: Currently, leisure activities happen at the dining table, which is between sofa and TV (used about once a week), so large lounge furniture is not really needed. The tree is a critical factor, as it likely narrows the building envelope in the front area to about 6.5m (21 ft). We don’t want to move the house further back because of the garden.
House Design
Planner: Still in the very early idea phase. Overall, we think about 180m² (1,937 sq ft) of living space plus basement. We currently live as four on 61m² (655 sq ft) and can manage. We don’t need huge increases in room size, rather a spatial separation with the accessory apartment and space for hobbies and home office. Dressing rooms or a children’s bathroom are not planned.
Personal budget limit for house including fittings: €750,000–800,000 (USD amount varies), with much furniture available from the existing house. Demolition cost would be extra, but I see plenty of grants and rental expenses during construction period. €450,000 (about $480,000) equity is available; the plot described above would be fully paid off (worth almost €700,000 or approximately $750,000).
Preferred heating technology: Ground-source heat pump with deep borehole and 12–15kWp photovoltaic system plus centralized controlled residential ventilation with enthalpy heat exchanger
If you have to compromise, on which features/extensions
- What can you do without: Either attic conversion or guest-office room
- What you cannot do without: Basement
Why is the design like this? No design yet; we are still considering the orientation on the plot.
It will be a timber frame construction, a gable roof to fit well, knee wall about 1.3m (4.3 ft), roof pitch >45°. The current roof is 60° and gives it a rustic fairy-tale look. On the south side, we want nearly full photovoltaic coverage except for a few roof windows; on the north side, we can imagine a dormer also to integrate the staircase to the attic—maybe a cross-gable?
The rough idea is close to the volume of a Danwood Point 138.1, but a bit wider and longer, and “narrower at the front” (the east side facing the street) due to the tree. Plus an attic conversion with a steeper roof. Access via staircase on the north side.
Alternatively, separate accessory apartment in the south and main residence in the north, but that would split the already narrow house into even narrower parts.
We would like a local timber frame general contractor (any recommendations in the greater Hamburg area?).
Am I completely off track? Have I forgotten anything? Made any major mistakes besides not building three years ago? Are important details missing? Will it all turn out too cramped? Is the budget roughly realistic? Aside from a garden shed, I have no building experience but some electrical knowledge. Photovoltaics and networking could be done by me, full electrical installation I am allowed but would not be practical with a general contractor.
Or is the program so complex that an architect is absolutely necessary because a draftsman would be overwhelmed? From my research it seems that architects for single-family homes that are not villas are quite rare.
Thanks to everyone who made it this far! And even more thanks to those who share their opinions or ideas.
Attached are current ALKIS excerpt, aerial photo, and building plan excerpt, all oriented north and approximately the same section. I hope they are legible… Red borders and points mark the plot.
Currently, my father, my wife, and my child (under 1 year old) live in a small residential house from the 1950s with 61m² (655 sq ft) of living space. The property is owned 50/50 by my father and me but is still partly being paid off by my grandmother (my outstanding payments are held in a separate account and are therefore just a “pass-through” item, while my father pays his monthly installments from his income). The plot is in Hamburg Iserbrook and measures 681m² (7,333 sq ft) with a standard land value of €985.
Unsurprisingly, the space is becoming somewhat tight, even though we get along well. Furthermore, the health of the older housemate is declining, and the narrow staircase to the upper floor is already becoming difficult to manage.
The basic idea is this: I would receive the second half of the plot as a gift, debt-free. My father will continue paying off his installments until he inherits the remainder. In return, we will build him a nice accessory apartment with the corresponding right of residence (or usufruct right, which still needs to be clarified)—barrier-free and compact so he can live independently there for as long as possible. The rest of the ground floor would then only contain a multipurpose room, guest toilet, and hallway; upstairs four rooms and a bathroom. We would like a (simple) converted attic as a retreat area. To relieve the ground floor space and avoid fully using the building envelope (sealing of surfaces, etc.), we plan a basement, as there are also two space-intensive hobbies and a workshop desired for DIY projects. I will also build some of the furniture myself.
Now to the questionnaire:
Building Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 681m² (7,333 sq ft) with existing house
Slope: No, but the area from the street level up to the terrace is filled +90cm (35 inches), the garage is at about +40cm (16 inches), the neighboring plot to the north also about +40cm (16 inches), and to the south approximately at street level
Floor area ratio (FAR): 0.4
Plot ratio (building coverage ratio): 0.4
Building envelope, building line, and boundaries: 5m (16.4 ft) setback to the street, then 15m (49.2 ft) deep, 2.5m (8.2 ft) setback on each side (more for taller buildings)
Edge development: Allowed (garages etc., max. wall height 3m (10 ft), max. length 9m (30 ft))
Number of parking spaces: We believe none are legally required; we plan to provide one for future use, for electric vehicle charging (currently not needed)
Number of floors: One full story; ALKIS shows some buildings apparently with two floors (see attachment)
Roof type: Not specified
Architectural style: Not specified
Orientation: Not specified
Maximum heights/limits: Not specified
Other requirements: No illuminated advertising signs 😉
The 1965 building plan mainly mandates “residential zoning only” and “one full story,” but even these rules seem flexible. There is a very large copper beech tree in the southeast corner of the plot, with an estimated crown diameter of 10m (33 ft) and at least 12-14m (39-46 ft) tall. The tree is to be preserved (it is unclear if it must officially be preserved with a new build). I expect that the new building must not come closer to the tree than the current building—about 2.5m (8.2 ft) from the trunk. The trunk itself is roughly 1.5m (5 ft) in diameter. A pruning plan is under discussion (also due to shading of the roof, planned for solar panels).
Owners' Requirements
Architectural style, roof shape, building type: Detached single-family home, gable roof with pitch >45°, rather long and narrow
Basement, number of floors: Yes to basement, 1.5 floors plus a converted attic
Number of occupants, ages: 4 (64 (gruff and private), 34, 31, under 1) Another child should be possible
Ground floor space needs: Open-plan area preferably with a small pantry, guest toilet
Accessory apartment with barrier-free design (walk-in shower, open living kitchen with sleeping niche). Can be small.
Shared hallway important (for potential care needs without going outside, access to joint basement with laundry facilities, etc.)
Upper floor space needs: 1 bedroom with a large bed and built-in closets but no extras, 3 rooms (1 child’s room, 1 office/child’s room, 1 guest/office (can be small)), 1 bathroom with a larger vanity, bathtub, and shower
Attic space needs: 2 “retreat” areas for the adults; if necessary, just a rocking chair with reading lamp and sewing machine on one side, and a gaming PC on the other. The current attic is an equilateral triangle with 2.1m (83 inches) side length; it doesn’t need to be much larger/wider/higher than that.
Basement space needs (access via shared hallway + additional exterior entrance): Technical room with heat pump, ventilation, electrical distribution, inverter, server; woodwork workshop; laundry room; 2 hobby cellars for large-format collections—Lego and beer cans, no kink-shaming please 😉 ; 1 storage room for decorations, suitcases, camping gear, etc. Must be heated (and ventilated), but simple tile flooring and surface-mounted installations are sufficient.
Office: Family use or home office? Home office about three times a week, plus one self-employed side business
Guest stays per year: 6–10, usually just one night, sometimes 2–3 nights
Open or closed design: Open on the ground floor but staircase not located in the living room/open space
Conservative or modern construction? I’m never quite sure of the difference, but I feel fully modern
Open kitchen, kitchen island: Yes, cooking often and joyfully, also with guests
Number of dining seats: 6; existing table extends to 14 seats for Christmas and birthdays
Fireplace: No, no chimney planned
Music/stereo wall: No
Balcony, roof terrace: No
Garage, carport: Carport/roof overhang directly at the building would be good, mainly for bikes and potentially for an electric vehicle in the (near) future. To my knowledge, Hamburg does not require parking spaces.
Vegetable garden, greenhouse: Maybe a small bed later, but not important at the moment
Other wishes/particularities/daily routine, including reasons for certain choices: Currently, leisure activities happen at the dining table, which is between sofa and TV (used about once a week), so large lounge furniture is not really needed. The tree is a critical factor, as it likely narrows the building envelope in the front area to about 6.5m (21 ft). We don’t want to move the house further back because of the garden.
House Design
Planner: Still in the very early idea phase. Overall, we think about 180m² (1,937 sq ft) of living space plus basement. We currently live as four on 61m² (655 sq ft) and can manage. We don’t need huge increases in room size, rather a spatial separation with the accessory apartment and space for hobbies and home office. Dressing rooms or a children’s bathroom are not planned.
Personal budget limit for house including fittings: €750,000–800,000 (USD amount varies), with much furniture available from the existing house. Demolition cost would be extra, but I see plenty of grants and rental expenses during construction period. €450,000 (about $480,000) equity is available; the plot described above would be fully paid off (worth almost €700,000 or approximately $750,000).
Preferred heating technology: Ground-source heat pump with deep borehole and 12–15kWp photovoltaic system plus centralized controlled residential ventilation with enthalpy heat exchanger
If you have to compromise, on which features/extensions
- What can you do without: Either attic conversion or guest-office room
- What you cannot do without: Basement
Why is the design like this? No design yet; we are still considering the orientation on the plot.
It will be a timber frame construction, a gable roof to fit well, knee wall about 1.3m (4.3 ft), roof pitch >45°. The current roof is 60° and gives it a rustic fairy-tale look. On the south side, we want nearly full photovoltaic coverage except for a few roof windows; on the north side, we can imagine a dormer also to integrate the staircase to the attic—maybe a cross-gable?
The rough idea is close to the volume of a Danwood Point 138.1, but a bit wider and longer, and “narrower at the front” (the east side facing the street) due to the tree. Plus an attic conversion with a steeper roof. Access via staircase on the north side.
Alternatively, separate accessory apartment in the south and main residence in the north, but that would split the already narrow house into even narrower parts.
We would like a local timber frame general contractor (any recommendations in the greater Hamburg area?).
Am I completely off track? Have I forgotten anything? Made any major mistakes besides not building three years ago? Are important details missing? Will it all turn out too cramped? Is the budget roughly realistic? Aside from a garden shed, I have no building experience but some electrical knowledge. Photovoltaics and networking could be done by me, full electrical installation I am allowed but would not be practical with a general contractor.
Or is the program so complex that an architect is absolutely necessary because a draftsman would be overwhelmed? From my research it seems that architects for single-family homes that are not villas are quite rare.
Thanks to everyone who made it this far! And even more thanks to those who share their opinions or ideas.
Attached are current ALKIS excerpt, aerial photo, and building plan excerpt, all oriented north and approximately the same section. I hope they are legible… Red borders and points mark the plot.
H
hanghaus202322 Feb 2023 19:40K a t j a schrieb:
Something seems off about the size specifications, in my opinion. A house with 61 square meters (657 square feet) – does that even exist? That doesn’t seem right to me. Is there a missing 1 in front?6 by 8 meters (20 by 26 feet), yes, that should be correct.@BucheOnBoard where exactly is north?
H
hanghaus202322 Feb 2023 20:01@BucheOnBoard. Sorry, I didn’t finish reading—north is at the top.
What is the structural condition of the existing house?
What is the structural condition of the existing house?
BucheOnBoard schrieb:
Building envelope, building line, and boundary 5 m (16 feet) setback from the street, then 15 m (49 feet) deep, 2.5 m (8 feet) setback to the left and right (more for a taller house)The property width at the street is 15.8 m (52 feet).I would calculate a 3 m (10 feet) setback from the north and 3 to possibly even 4 m (10 to 13 feet) from the south.
This means the maximum house width would be 8.8 m (29 feet). I would also definitely place the house at least 5 m (16 feet) into the property, basically setting it back from the building boundary on the west side. It should be clarified whether terrace areas must fall within this building boundary and whether a simple parking space would be allowed within the 5 m (16 feet) from the eastern property boundary. A wall box or similar equipment might then already be possible within the building envelope area.
B
BucheOnBoard23 Feb 2023 18:42Oh dear, I’ll try to quote through all the posts. In any case, thanks a lot for the tips so far:
That's definitely worthy of respect, but there would still be a bathroom and corridor added—it’s not huge or spacious, but also not just 16 sqm (172 sq ft). Also, at first it’s only meant to be barrier-reduced, not fully barrier-free. Where it makes sense to go barrier-free right away, of course we would do that, but if necessary it will mean more space by having fewer pieces of furniture...
At Allkauf Haus, I found many houses with granny flats, but most have a whole floor dedicated to it—do you have a more specific recommendation?
Placing furniture and clearances on the plan is on my to-do list; I need to get back into Vectorworks first...
The rough idea was 550k for the house (probably more), 100k for the basement, 100k for additional building costs, 50k for demolition (probably less). In my opinion, the basement doesn’t need to be at full living height, and for the attic I find your design for the “barn house” quite successful. It can be “simple” regarding wiring, but of course heating, floor, and interior finishing are still needed.
So far in our research, we haven’t found anyone we instantly thought, “yes, that’s the one.” The Point 138 was really just a rough idea for room layout—otherwise just ignore it 😉
I’m happy to keep fighting the battle against the rest of the street’s leaves in autumn. But the 2.5 m (8 ft) distance probably wouldn’t kill the tree since the house (with partial basement in that area) is already there. Almost everything in the canopy drip line area in the west is covered by our terrace or the neighbors’ access path; to the south and east about 3 m (10 ft) away there are walls for a 90 cm (35 in) fill. The roots can only continue beneath that, then to the east under the sidewalk and street. And it’s not the only tree—we have another beech on the far west, about half as big (which will definitely stay), a 5 m (16 ft) service tree (staying), a 5 m (16 ft) oak, a red Norway maple (tricky because it’s in the front garden, but it’s supposed to stay too). Hedges for wind and moisture retention... until the 1950s the area was a nursery/tree farm.
That might be too wide but at least the upper floor fits quite well—kids’ rooms and bedroom a bit smaller, but with a small guest office added. The ground floor worries me more, unsurprisingly.
Poor, I think that sums it up. Built by my grandfather after the war; the basement is damp to wet (interestingly not from the direction of the beech), the shell is made of calcium silicate blocks, sometimes some rubble bricks (I think). The ground floor is uninsulated (brick slips in front of the calcium silicate blocks), same with the basement. My father added insulation to the attic once but didn’t really know what he was doing; at least the dormer of the bathroom is also rotten, the chimney had to be removed due to frost damage. The roof is original and therefore quite worn out. I really don’t see any way to preserve or renovate it...
The side setbacks were also about our maximum; we had about 8.5 m (28 ft) in mind for the width. We didn’t actually want to start at the west end because then there wouldn’t be much remaining garden at the back (and a front garden to the street, even if very quiet, is less nice than a quiet west garden). It would also be really difficult with the neighbor to the north, who would have little light (but that would probably just be the way it is). Of course, it would leave more space for the tree, but then we couldn’t use the existing basement hole and would have to excavate again.
I hope I’ve covered everything for now and will keep thinking about it 🙂
haydee schrieb:
The barrier-reduced granny flat that is still suitable for care needs won’t fit into the 2 rooms.
Google “zero-barrier tiny house.” The house is 16 sqm (172 sq ft)—I don’t consider neither the bed nor the bathroom a good long-term solution. Though I have to tip my hat that it fits into that footprint. You might be able to implement a few gimmicks or at least take some inspiration from it.
That's definitely worthy of respect, but there would still be a bathroom and corridor added—it’s not huge or spacious, but also not just 16 sqm (172 sq ft). Also, at first it’s only meant to be barrier-reduced, not fully barrier-free. Where it makes sense to go barrier-free right away, of course we would do that, but if necessary it will mean more space by having fewer pieces of furniture...
At Allkauf Haus, I found many houses with granny flats, but most have a whole floor dedicated to it—do you have a more specific recommendation?
Placing furniture and clearances on the plan is on my to-do list; I need to get back into Vectorworks first...
K a t j a schrieb:
Actually, I find the budget good but Hamburg is definitely a big hurdle. I’m afraid on top of the usual 3000 per sqm (almost 300 per sq ft) you’d have to add another 500 just for the Hamburg premium. Plus the basement at living height and the attic—it’ll definitely be tight with 800k. The demolition on top of that—I’d then call it quits and say I don’t think that’s enough. But we can't know for sure at this point. Everything is still in flux.
The rough idea was 550k for the house (probably more), 100k for the basement, 100k for additional building costs, 50k for demolition (probably less). In my opinion, the basement doesn’t need to be at full living height, and for the attic I find your design for the “barn house” quite successful. It can be “simple” regarding wiring, but of course heating, floor, and interior finishing are still needed.
K a t j a schrieb:
Not hiring an architect on a project close to one million would almost seem negligent to me. I think you’re confusing more people than clarifying when you say you want to build 180 sqm (1938 sq ft) but then mention a 138 sqm (1485 sq ft) floor plan. But just a side note.
So far in our research, we haven’t found anyone we instantly thought, “yes, that’s the one.” The Point 138 was really just a rough idea for room layout—otherwise just ignore it 😉
K a t j a schrieb:
Saving the tree is very commendable. If I may add, I would try to significantly increase the distance to the trunk. It’s said that what you see as the canopy above ground is mirrored underground by root size. A 2.5 m (8 ft) distance would probably kill the tree. So distance is critical! Honestly, a tree like that is worth gold, and if you have the choice between moving the house back and saving the tree or killing the tree, definitely keep the tree! We’re struggling to turn a former field into a garden. We lack large trees for shade. Wind and sun mercilessly burn everything that tries to grow. Every new leaf is celebrated. How much we would love to have your beech!
I’m happy to keep fighting the battle against the rest of the street’s leaves in autumn. But the 2.5 m (8 ft) distance probably wouldn’t kill the tree since the house (with partial basement in that area) is already there. Almost everything in the canopy drip line area in the west is covered by our terrace or the neighbors’ access path; to the south and east about 3 m (10 ft) away there are walls for a 90 cm (35 in) fill. The roots can only continue beneath that, then to the east under the sidewalk and street. And it’s not the only tree—we have another beech on the far west, about half as big (which will definitely stay), a 5 m (16 ft) service tree (staying), a 5 m (16 ft) oak, a red Norway maple (tricky because it’s in the front garden, but it’s supposed to stay too). Hedges for wind and moisture retention... until the 1950s the area was a nursery/tree farm.
hanghaus2023 schrieb:
I would suggest a prefabricated house like the Junto 190 from FINGERHUT-HAUS.
That might be too wide but at least the upper floor fits quite well—kids’ rooms and bedroom a bit smaller, but with a small guest office added. The ground floor worries me more, unsurprisingly.
hanghaus2023 schrieb:
@BucheOnBoard.
What is the condition of the existing building?
Poor, I think that sums it up. Built by my grandfather after the war; the basement is damp to wet (interestingly not from the direction of the beech), the shell is made of calcium silicate blocks, sometimes some rubble bricks (I think). The ground floor is uninsulated (brick slips in front of the calcium silicate blocks), same with the basement. My father added insulation to the attic once but didn’t really know what he was doing; at least the dormer of the bathroom is also rotten, the chimney had to be removed due to frost damage. The roof is original and therefore quite worn out. I really don’t see any way to preserve or renovate it...
kbt09 schrieb:
And then a lot width of 15.8 m (52 ft) at the street.
I would calculate a 3 m (10 ft) setback from the north and 3 to maybe even 4 m (10 to 13 ft) from the south.
That makes the house width max 8.8 m (29 ft). I would really position the house at least 5 m (16 ft) into the lot—or basically from the building boundary on the west side. It would have to be clarified whether terrace areas must lie within this building boundary, and whether a pure parking space can be placed within 5 m (16 ft) of the eastern lot boundary. A wallbox or similar could then already be inside the building envelope.
The side setbacks were also about our maximum; we had about 8.5 m (28 ft) in mind for the width. We didn’t actually want to start at the west end because then there wouldn’t be much remaining garden at the back (and a front garden to the street, even if very quiet, is less nice than a quiet west garden). It would also be really difficult with the neighbor to the north, who would have little light (but that would probably just be the way it is). Of course, it would leave more space for the tree, but then we couldn’t use the existing basement hole and would have to excavate again.
I hope I’ve covered everything for now and will keep thinking about it 🙂
That wouldn’t be that far west. It would also depend on the terrace... if it has to be within the building envelope / planning permission area, then including the terrace it would definitely stop after 20 m (65.6 ft), leaving more than 20 m (65.6 ft) remaining.
By the way, you should assume about 12 m (39.4 ft) width with a maximum depth of 8.8 m (28.9 ft) if you want to reach that area. That’s just the floor area of the house... due to walls and so on, you can subtract almost 20% of the total footprint.
By the way, you should assume about 12 m (39.4 ft) width with a maximum depth of 8.8 m (28.9 ft) if you want to reach that area. That’s just the floor area of the house... due to walls and so on, you can subtract almost 20% of the total footprint.
H
hanghaus202324 Feb 2023 09:15BucheOnBoard schrieb:
That might be too wide, but at least on the upper floor it fits quite well – kids’ bedrooms a bit smaller, and a small guest office added. However, the ground floor worries me more (not surprisingly) and requires some thought. I feel confident I can reduce the ground floor width by 70cm (27.5 inches). 😉
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