Hello everyone,
I am planning to rebuild the floor of our older house.
The floor itself, meaning the basement ceiling, consists of 12 cm (5 inches) thick B 160 reinforced concrete. On top of that, 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers were laid floating, and wooden floorboards were nailed on.
I have now completely removed the old wooden structure. However, since I have two extensions on the house, there is a height difference of almost 11 cm (4.3 inches) compared to the screed in the extensions.
Leveling with new screed is not an option due to structural and cost reasons.
My planned new build-up is as follows:
- Perimeter insulation strip along the walls
- (new) 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers laid floating
- 22 mm (0.9 inches) OSB 3 board
The main question I have now is whether I should also lay the OSB boards floating or screw them down and glue tongue and groove joints? I want to avoid creaking noises and have already received many different recommendations.
Has anyone here perhaps already carried out a similar build-up or has any other tips?
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards,
Marc
I am planning to rebuild the floor of our older house.
The floor itself, meaning the basement ceiling, consists of 12 cm (5 inches) thick B 160 reinforced concrete. On top of that, 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers were laid floating, and wooden floorboards were nailed on.
I have now completely removed the old wooden structure. However, since I have two extensions on the house, there is a height difference of almost 11 cm (4.3 inches) compared to the screed in the extensions.
Leveling with new screed is not an option due to structural and cost reasons.
My planned new build-up is as follows:
- Perimeter insulation strip along the walls
- (new) 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers laid floating
- 22 mm (0.9 inches) OSB 3 board
The main question I have now is whether I should also lay the OSB boards floating or screw them down and glue tongue and groove joints? I want to avoid creaking noises and have already received many different recommendations.
Has anyone here perhaps already carried out a similar build-up or has any other tips?
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards,
Marc
Marcinho14059 Nov 2016 13:34Yes, that's true; it mainly concerns the raw concrete ceiling. To prevent the supporting timbers from slipping, I planned to temporarily screw battens across the timber. This is essential because I will also be installing electrical wiring and heating pipes within the structure.
KlaRa schrieb:
The substructure is fastened to the battens using Spax screws with a full thread, and the tongue and groove joints are well glued.
Don’t forget to lay a continuous vapor barrier overlapping at the edges of the sheets under the battens.Today, I had the final clarifying discussion with a professional. This is exactly how we will proceed.
Lay out the vapor barrier.
Use roof battens with a moisture content of 9–12%, level them using wedges, and fasten them directly into the concrete. Then apply approximately 2.2 cubic meters (78 cubic feet) of fill on an area of 26 square meters (280 square feet). Screw 22 mm (7/8 inch) OSB panels with tongue and groove — glued at the joints — onto the battens.
Marcinho140511 Nov 2016 09:49@jan2110 : Then you have misunderstood the post by @KlaRa. He is referring to floating installation of the joists and screwing the OSB boards onto the wood.
Which trade does your specialist belong to? And did he say anything about the issue raised by [USER=29380]@Deliverer regarding puncturing the vapor barrier? And why does he recommend loose fill instead of mineral wool insulation?
These questions are just out of interest, not because I assume this is wrong.
Which trade does your specialist belong to? And did he say anything about the issue raised by [USER=29380]@Deliverer regarding puncturing the vapor barrier? And why does he recommend loose fill instead of mineral wool insulation?
These questions are just out of interest, not because I assume this is wrong.
He is an expert in everything related to wood. He has built a similar structure for two other people, and it has held up until today.
The battens are screwed in to prevent warping or bending.
OSB panels are screwed and glued to prevent creaking and warping.
Insulation based solely on personal experience.
I will address the issue of the vapor barrier again.
The battens are screwed in to prevent warping or bending.
OSB panels are screwed and glued to prevent creaking and warping.
Insulation based solely on personal experience.
I will address the issue of the vapor barrier again.
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