Hello everyone,
I am planning to rebuild the floor of our older house.
The floor itself, meaning the basement ceiling, consists of 12 cm (5 inches) thick B 160 reinforced concrete. On top of that, 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers were laid floating, and wooden floorboards were nailed on.
I have now completely removed the old wooden structure. However, since I have two extensions on the house, there is a height difference of almost 11 cm (4.3 inches) compared to the screed in the extensions.
Leveling with new screed is not an option due to structural and cost reasons.
My planned new build-up is as follows:
- Perimeter insulation strip along the walls
- (new) 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers laid floating
- 22 mm (0.9 inches) OSB 3 board
The main question I have now is whether I should also lay the OSB boards floating or screw them down and glue tongue and groove joints? I want to avoid creaking noises and have already received many different recommendations.
Has anyone here perhaps already carried out a similar build-up or has any other tips?
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards,
Marc
I am planning to rebuild the floor of our older house.
The floor itself, meaning the basement ceiling, consists of 12 cm (5 inches) thick B 160 reinforced concrete. On top of that, 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers were laid floating, and wooden floorboards were nailed on.
I have now completely removed the old wooden structure. However, since I have two extensions on the house, there is a height difference of almost 11 cm (4.3 inches) compared to the screed in the extensions.
Leveling with new screed is not an option due to structural and cost reasons.
My planned new build-up is as follows:
- Perimeter insulation strip along the walls
- (new) 6x8 cm (2.4x3.2 inches) squared timbers laid floating
- 22 mm (0.9 inches) OSB 3 board
The main question I have now is whether I should also lay the OSB boards floating or screw them down and glue tongue and groove joints? I want to avoid creaking noises and have already received many different recommendations.
Has anyone here perhaps already carried out a similar build-up or has any other tips?
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards,
Marc
Marcinho14059 Nov 2016 12:25All right, but the concern is less about the installation method of the joists (screwed down or floating). Just because you screw down the joists doesn’t mean a vapor barrier (if required under tiles) becomes unnecessary.
Therefore, you should consider the installation method either way. I think that floating installation involves less effort (no drilling). But I hope someone can still provide an answer regarding the necessity of a vapor barrier under a tiled floor here.
Therefore, you should consider the installation method either way. I think that floating installation involves less effort (no drilling). But I hope someone can still provide an answer regarding the necessity of a vapor barrier under a tiled floor here.
D
Deliverer9 Nov 2016 12:50Marcinho1405 schrieb:
Just because you screw down the battens, that doesn’t make a vapor barrier (if required for tiles) unnecessary.If there are about 60 screws in the vapor barrier film, does that not make it unnecessary?
Then I’ll just install one anyway...
Marcinho14059 Nov 2016 12:55I didn’t say that; I already mentioned that a floating installation is easier. In theory, I think you would need to seal each drill hole afterward to maintain the effectiveness of the vapor barrier. Still, screwing it down doesn’t make the vapor barrier unnecessary, because fastening the joists with screws does not change the necessity at all (if it is actually required).
If you absolutely want to screw the joists down (for whatever reason), then go ahead. I’m just trying to help you with the knowledge I’ve gathered.
If you absolutely want to screw the joists down (for whatever reason), then go ahead. I’m just trying to help you with the knowledge I’ve gathered.
D
Deliverer9 Nov 2016 13:02Marcinho1405 schrieb:
If you really want to screw the battens down (for whatever reason), then go ahead.Thanks. I can explain why: they won’t move anymore.
That way, I can easily align them straight, install the insulation, and comfortably work the OSB boards on top... It’s simply more stable.
Even if I still need to level some uneven spots, I can more easily shim the battens in certain places. Loosen the screws, insert spacers underneath, tighten the screws, and it holds.
But I’ll wait for a few more comments before deciding — the floor will definitely go in next week.
Marcinho14059 Nov 2016 13:10As I mentioned, I only have secondhand knowledge (mostly from the installation instructions provided by manufacturers), so I can only relay what is written there.
However, what you say about the movement of the structure also makes sense. I think I will still install it as a floating floor; sometimes I like to believe in the good intentions of people who write these installation guides and assume they had a reason for their recommendations.
I assume that due to the heavy weight of the OSB boards and the subsequent floor buildup above, there isn’t much movement even with a floating floor.
But just out of curiosity, why are you going for such a complex setup? Do you, like me, have to compensate for height differences, or do you want to create a service cavity?
However, what you say about the movement of the structure also makes sense. I think I will still install it as a floating floor; sometimes I like to believe in the good intentions of people who write these installation guides and assume they had a reason for their recommendations.
I assume that due to the heavy weight of the OSB boards and the subsequent floor buildup above, there isn’t much movement even with a floating floor.
But just out of curiosity, why are you going for such a complex setup? Do you, like me, have to compensate for height differences, or do you want to create a service cavity?
D
Deliverer9 Nov 2016 13:30I need to raise it by 73 mm (3 inches) to align the kitchen floor with the living room.
The installation instructions are probably correct but are not really designed for "over existing tiled floors."
As for stability, I’m not worried about the finished floor. I just imagine that especially at the beginning, it will be frustrating because the battens keep shifting. This is particularly the case when placing the insulation wool before the first OSB boards are laid on top.
The installation instructions are probably correct but are not really designed for "over existing tiled floors."
As for stability, I’m not worried about the finished floor. I just imagine that especially at the beginning, it will be frustrating because the battens keep shifting. This is particularly the case when placing the insulation wool before the first OSB boards are laid on top.
Similar topics