ᐅ Initial designs/floor plans for a semi-detached house measuring 6 by 12 meters

Hello everyone,

we are planning to build a semi-detached house. The buildable area is 6 x 12 m (20 x 39 ft) and it may have two full floors. We want to fully finish the attic to create three children’s bedrooms. We do not want a basement due to the proximity to the Rhine. The ridge height is 11 m (36 ft), the eaves height is 6.5 m (21 ft).

We want to place a garage measuring 3 x 9 m (10 x 30 ft) on the property boundary. The garden faces south.

Our initial ideas have led us to the attached floor plans – what do you think?

Note:
On the ground floor there will only be a heating/utility room – the washing machine and dryer should be in the attic (utility room).
Additionally, we want a pantry (separated from the open kitchen by a sliding door) and a closed concrete staircase under which we want to create additional storage space on the ground floor.
The first floor with three children’s bedrooms and a bathroom.
Attic: master bedroom, utility room, and studio – the studio has a dormer window (north side) and the bedroom is on the south side.
-> I think it looks better from the street with the dormer, even though the rooms would be better swapped otherwise.

...and now I’m curious – everything is still changeable.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH

Good evening,

Ländle schrieb:

Attic: Studio with dormer (north side)

Are you sure you will get approval for a dormer on the third floor?

Regards, Bauexperte

Here are a few tips:

A sliding door requires space inside the wall, so plan for a double wall there.
Also, always leave about 20 cm (8 inches) of space next to a door for light switches.
I’m talking about a sketch… so it’s better to allow a bit more space in DIY plans, otherwise the furniture won’t fit if you later use those exact measurements for the final layout.
-> Bedroom: a wardrobe that measures 285 cm (112 inches) probably won’t fit, and it won’t work either because the light switches will be placed by the door. As a result, you will eventually look for a wardrobe that is about 250 cm (98 inches) wide. Most likely, the planned space will be too small.
A kitchen walkway of one meter (39 inches) between work areas is too narrow! This also applies to a corridor width of one meter (39 inches).
Plan for a real clearance depth of 60 cm (24 inches) behind doors (for cupboards, see utility room).
Right now you have three toilet drain connections… that can become expensive...
Toilets need cisterns, which are usually built into drywall installations; this is only realized on the ground floor in your plans.
The utility room in the attic is so small that you can hardly move in it...
You should plan a built-in wardrobe about 120 cm (47 inches) deep along the sloped or windowless wall in the bedroom to create a real usable space for the bed. But don’t forget to enlarge the utility room.
I am an advocate for doing laundry on the floor where the washing occurs. But doing laundry in the attic means carrying laundry baskets down two flights of stairs in summer if you want to dry clothes outside.
Therefore, I would plan the laundry room on the upper floor and relocate the staircase accordingly. The attic and living room can handle this; in my opinion, there is too much unused space on the ground floor anyway.

Best regards,
Yvonne

ypg schrieb:
A sliding door requires space inside the wall, so you need to design a double wall for that.

Not necessarily. We are installing a sliding door between the kitchen and dining room. This is essentially a large unit that fits into a correspondingly large rough opening.
If planned correctly, the units don’t necessarily have to be mounted in front of the wall.

Masipulami schrieb:
If planned correctly, the elements do not necessarily have to be installed in front of the wall.

That’s correct. Either mounted on the wall surface or built into the wall itself – in the latter case, the wall has to be doubled in thickness.

For this reason, our wall between the hallway and pantry is almost twice as thick as all other (non-load-bearing) interior walls.

Regards,

Dirk

Doc.Schnaggls schrieb:
then the wall must be doubled in thickness.

I cannot confirm that. In our case, the element is installed within a 17.5cm (7 inch) thick load-bearing interior wall. There is no need to double the wall thickness.

Edit:
For non-load-bearing walls, however, it might be the case that the wall thickness is insufficient to accommodate the system and therefore needs to be doubled.