ᐅ How can I convert Ikea BESTA into a TV and media unit?

Hello everyone, I’m planning to convert the Ikea Besta system into a TV and media unit in my living room and wanted to ask here in the forum about your experiences or how you approach the redesign.

My goal is to create suitable storage for my devices and cables while achieving an appealing look without completely dismantling the furniture. I’m especially interested in tips on drilling cable openings, modifying the back panels, and whether it makes sense to replace or add shelves or doors.

Also, any advice on stability for modifications that exceed the standard dimensions would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for all the tips, and feel free to share detailed step-by-step instructions or tools that have helped you!

I converted my Ikea BESTA into a TV unit and can recommend the following:

- For cable openings, a hole diameter of 6–8 cm (2.4–3.1 inches) is ideal. It’s best to use a hole saw to achieve clean edges.
- The back panel can be replaced with thin MDF, which makes cable routing easier and adds extra stability.
- If not already present, hinge drillings can be added to the doors to install accessories like flip-up doors or glass fronts.
- Make sure not to exceed the maximum load capacity of the shelves (about 15–20 kg (33–44 lbs) per shelf), especially with larger TVs.

The furniture is quite flexible overall, but it is recommended to use the original Ikea screws to avoid loss of stability.

Hello, I would like to organize this a bit to clarify the process:

1. Planning and measurement: Take your time to measure precisely how much space you need for the TV and devices. Also consider ventilation areas to prevent your equipment from overheating.

2. Preparation: Remove any doors or shelves that you plan to modify later.

3. Cable management: Drill holes with a hole saw in the back panel or shelves. Tip: Also create side cable channels if possible.

4. Installation of back panels: If you want a thicker back panel to hide cables, you can use thin plywood or MDF. It should be stable but not too thick to avoid warping the furniture.

5. Replacing doors and fronts: IKEA offers many options, but custom doors (for example, painted or with film coverings) often fit well too. Pay attention to hinge positions.

6. Assembly and stability: Avoid modifications that weaken the load-bearing side panels and intermediate walls. Reinforce these areas if necessary with brackets and screws.

Conclusion: Take your time with each step, and do trial assemblies in between to avoid mistakes.

To address the question about cable routing and stability, I would like to add some technical details that are often overlooked:

First, it is advisable to completely remove the back panel, if space allows. The standard back panels on BESTA units are made of thin hardboard, which makes drilling easier but significantly limits stability. When converting it into a media center, you should instead cut a 3-4 mm (1/8–5/32 inch) thick plywood or MDF panel to the same dimensions and securely screw or glue it in place.

For cable openings, I recommend precisely marking their positions using a tape measure based on the placement of the devices. The holes should be drilled with a hole saw (approximately 80 mm (3 inches) diameter) and then fitted with rubber grommets to protect the cables.

Shelves, especially when holding larger or heavier devices, should be reinforced with additional angle brackets, as the Ikea support strips are not always sufficient. According to the datasheet, the maximum load capacity of a shelf is about 15 kg (33 lbs), which should not be exceeded.

Another tip concerns the doors: if you are installing hinges, make sure there is ventilation when they are closed to prevent heat buildup from AV receivers or consoles. You might add small air vents at the bottom of the doors or install ventilation grilles behind them.

Finally, regarding surface finishing: if you want to paint or laminate the cabinet, I recommend preparing it with a sanding primer to ensure optimal adhesion.

If you need more details about the electrical setup or installation, just let me know!

glamo schrieb:
The holes should be drilled with a hole saw (diameter approx. 80 mm (3 inches)) and then fitted with rubber cable grommets to protect the cable material.

The tip about the rubber grommets is really useful, thanks! Do you have any suggestions on where I can find such grommets cheaply but in good quality?

LANICOLE schrieb:
Avoid modifications that weaken load-bearing sidewalls and partition walls. Reinforce these areas if necessary with brackets and screws.

Could you please explain that in more detail? I’m not an expert in furniture construction – which parts exactly are load-bearing and how can I reinforce them effectively without later causing problems when opening or closing the doors?

TANNERNA41 schrieb:
Could you explain that in more detail? I’m not an expert in furniture making – which parts are load-bearing, and how can I reinforce them effectively without causing problems later when opening or closing the doors?

Sure, happy to help!

The main load-bearing parts of the BESTA are primarily the side panels, the bottom panels, and the internal partitions that support the shelves. If you drill holes for cables, make sure to do so only in areas that don’t carry structural loads – so avoid drilling completely through the side panels or internal partitions.

If you do need to modify a load-bearing side panel, you can discreetly attach small brackets or metal reinforcements at screw points from the outside. It’s important that these reinforcements don’t block the hinges or door openings, so place them so that the doors can still open and close smoothly.

A good tip is to take a photo of the assembly before disassembly – this way, you can better remember which screws and components are important.

In general: the back panel carries little load, so you can work on it without concern.