ᐅ How can I convert Ikea Besta into a shoe cabinet?

Hello everyone, I am currently planning to convert my Ikea Besta cabinet into a shoe cabinet and have a specific question: How can I modify and adapt the Besta frame to work optimally as a shoe cabinet? Specifically, I am interested in suitable compartment divisions, materials for the shelves, and the best method to potentially modify the doors or fronts to ensure good ventilation for shoes and enough space for different shoe sizes. Are there also tips on how to maintain stability when using or removing the shelves? I would appreciate a detailed guide or personal experiences, ideally with advice on what to watch for during planning and conversion.

It is best to use removable shelves made of sturdy material and to install mesh or slatted inserts behind the doors to allow air circulation. Shoe sizes can be adjusted with height-adjustable shelves. Make sure to use strong shelf supports that can hold the weight well.

Hello, I find your project really interesting! If you plan to convert the Besta into a shoe cabinet, you should especially make sure that the compartments are well ventilated to prevent odors and allow the shoes to dry properly. You could either drill ventilation slots in the back panel or, as NoValentin already mentioned, use mesh inserts. Additionally, I recommend replacing the shelves with sturdy ones, preferably made of metal or strong wood, since shoes can be quite heavy, especially if you store several pairs in one compartment. It’s best to organize the compartments so that you can flexibly adjust different heights, for example using dowels and metal shelving rails. Also, keep in mind that the doors might need to be adjustable to optimize air circulation.

Good morning, I have identified some important detailed aspects in a similar project that should help you with your renovation:

- Choice of shelf materials: The best option is well-processed plywood or MDF boards with a minimum thickness of 18 mm (3/4 inch). These provide adequate load distribution, which is especially important for shoes that concentrate weight on specific points.

- Adjustment of shelves: Use height-adjustable dowel systems with metal guiding rails to keep the layout flexible. This way, you can conveniently store tall boots at the bottom and flat shoes on the top shelves.

- Ventilation: If the back panel is fully visible, you can drill simple ventilation holes with a diameter of about 12 mm (1/2 inch), distributed across the surface. Alternatively, built-in mesh or slatted inserts in the doors work well to prevent mold growth.

- Modifying doors: If you are considering replacing the doors, there are options to fit wooden fronts with perforated inserts or decorative metal grilles. Make sure to check all measurements precisely before modifying, as hinges and fittings must be exact to avoid compromising stability.

- Stability when removing shelves: Only remove a few shelves and be careful not to concentrate the load on fewer shelves that do not have sufficient load capacity. If in doubt, you can reinforce with brackets or additional supports.

- Final tip: Work carefully and document every step; measure multiple times before drilling holes or making cuts.

Do you already have precise measurements of your shoes? Then I can help you suggest an optimal closet layout.

deoke schrieb:
Do you have precise measurements of your shoes? Then I can help you suggest an optimal closet layout.

Thank you for your detailed suggestions! My shoe sizes vary; besides sneakers (about 26 cm (10 inches) in height on average), I also have some boots that are up to 38 cm (15 inches) tall. Therefore, a flexible adjustment of the compartments seems important to me. My current idea is to install several shelves for the lower shoes and only a few, but taller, compartments for the boots.

I will then consider how to integrate ventilation holes or grilles—probably on the doors, since the back panel is not easily accessible. I don’t want to cut into the back panel as that could affect stability. The doors are made of wood, and I’m wondering if a louvered insert can be retrofitted without completely replacing the door. Is there a simple way to do this, or would the doors need to be fully replaced?

RENTEO schrieb:
I don’t want to cut anything on the back panel, as that could compromise stability.

I think that makes sense, especially if you plan to use the cabinet long-term. For a similar project, I covered the doors with thin wooden slats that I bought pre-made. It was quite a challenge to measure everything precisely and adjust the hinges, but it worked.

Alternatively, I’ve also heard of people installing ventilated door handles or using screws with pass-through holes to allow some airflow.

What helped me was working step by step and only adjusting the doors after the carcass was complete. That way, I could better estimate how much ventilation would actually be needed.