Hello dear forum members,
I am currently working on our electrical planning, and somehow my plans are getting more and more colorful.
I know that you need a switch to get light and that power comes from the sockets, but two areas are really confusing me:
1) The outdoor area: we want to illuminate the front and back of the house each with one spotlight. Of course, outlets will be planned that can be switched from inside (near the front door).
A carport is planned (with lighting and motion detectors later?), and the garage, which is 2 meters (6.5 feet) away from the house, should also receive power for future use (sockets, lighting, possibly electric roller shutters). Furthermore, the garden should be illuminated later on.
Question: Is it enough to communicate these needs to the electrician? Will they install one feed line to the carport, another to the garage, and a third cable towards the garden? Can multiple garden lights then be connected from one cable?
How does it work if the lighting is upgraded only later (after moving in)?
2) The staircase area to the upper floor: the stairs lead (unlike most) from the open living area to the upper floor. The living area is open to above (no intermediate ceiling). Upstairs, the stairs lead to a small gallery (hallway).
On the other side of the stairs downstairs is a wall with two planned spotlights. I have somehow planned this now: downstairs a light switch for the stair spotlights, upstairs a switch for the gallery. Is that switching too much? Would it be better to also illuminate the gallery together with the stairs? I have already thought about a motion detector at the base of the stairs, but since the living room is there as well, the stair light would always come on when passing by. The living area lighting (three large pendant lights) hangs in the open space. Could this lighting possibly be sufficient for the stairs so that the spotlights can be omitted? However, then the main light in the living area would need to be switchable from upstairs as well?!
Can anyone give me a tip on how to solve this best?
I am currently working on our electrical planning, and somehow my plans are getting more and more colorful.
I know that you need a switch to get light and that power comes from the sockets, but two areas are really confusing me:
1) The outdoor area: we want to illuminate the front and back of the house each with one spotlight. Of course, outlets will be planned that can be switched from inside (near the front door).
A carport is planned (with lighting and motion detectors later?), and the garage, which is 2 meters (6.5 feet) away from the house, should also receive power for future use (sockets, lighting, possibly electric roller shutters). Furthermore, the garden should be illuminated later on.
Question: Is it enough to communicate these needs to the electrician? Will they install one feed line to the carport, another to the garage, and a third cable towards the garden? Can multiple garden lights then be connected from one cable?
How does it work if the lighting is upgraded only later (after moving in)?
2) The staircase area to the upper floor: the stairs lead (unlike most) from the open living area to the upper floor. The living area is open to above (no intermediate ceiling). Upstairs, the stairs lead to a small gallery (hallway).
On the other side of the stairs downstairs is a wall with two planned spotlights. I have somehow planned this now: downstairs a light switch for the stair spotlights, upstairs a switch for the gallery. Is that switching too much? Would it be better to also illuminate the gallery together with the stairs? I have already thought about a motion detector at the base of the stairs, but since the living room is there as well, the stair light would always come on when passing by. The living area lighting (three large pendant lights) hangs in the open space. Could this lighting possibly be sufficient for the stairs so that the spotlights can be omitted? However, then the main light in the living area would need to be switchable from upstairs as well?!
Can anyone give me a tip on how to solve this best?
Hello,
If you clearly communicate your needs to your trusted electrician, this should not be a problem; if it is, find another one quickly.
Still, you could do the installation work yourself and save some money.
Basically, you need an underground cable for wiring since it will be installed outdoors. For your facade lighting (not the carport), NYM cable might be possible, but personally, I don’t find that ideal.
Garden lighting:
For garden lighting, NYY-J 3x2.5mm² (about 3x14 AWG) cable might be suitable. This depends on the cable lengths and the power of the lights. In some cases, 1.5mm² (about 16 AWG) might suffice.
You can lay the underground cable directly in the ground; ideally, place a yellow warning tape with a notice like “high-voltage cable” above it so you don’t accidentally dig it up years later (about 60–80cm (24–31 inches) deep, below the frost line).
Start laying from your main distribution board, through the ground, to the first target point, leave a generous loop (for later light connection), then continue to the next point until the last one.
Now you need a light switch, motion sensor, or dusk sensor wherever you want it. From there, run a cable to the distribution board—NYM cable may be sufficient under certain conditions, but underground cable is better.
The corresponding wiring will be done in the switchboard. Alternatively, you can run the supply cable for the lights directly to the switch, motion sensor, or dusk sensor.
The whole setup can be pre-wired; just don't connect it to the circuit breaker until all work is complete.
Carport:
For your carport (or garage?), you should run NYY-J 5x2.5mm² cable, preferably 4mm² (about 12 AWG), underground and connect it to a sub-distribution board.
This way, you can also install a "three-phase power outlet" (16A, three-phase socket) later if desired.
Regarding your outdoor lighting for house and carport:
Your idea to be able to switch it from inside is good. Consider adding a motion sensor; via the internal switch, you can either turn on continuous light or activate the motion sensor.
If you want to control the carport lighting this way as well, I suggest running a second cable to the carport. Otherwise, you could set up a circuit with motion sensors and maybe a switch directly in the carport and connect the whole system to the sub-distribution board.
If needed, I can prepare a wiring diagram with the necessary circuit breakers and other details.
Very important: Always use a dedicated residual current device (RCD) for outdoor circuits. Due to moisture, it’s more likely to trip, and we don’t want the whole house to go dark immediately.
I hope this is somewhat clear; it's getting late.
Point 2:
A drawing would be helpful. Otherwise, it’s not a very difficult task.
Best regards and good night
1) The outdoor area: we want to illuminate the front and back of the house with one spotlight each. Of course, outlets will be planned that can be switched from inside (near the front door). A carport is planned (with lighting and possibly motion sensors later), and the garage, which is 2 meters (6.5 feet) away from the house, should also get electricity for the future (power outlets, lighting, possibly electric roller shutters). Furthermore, the garden should be illuminated later on.
Question: Is it enough to inform the electrician about these needs? Will a feed line be laid to the carport, another to the garage, and a third cable toward the garden? Can multiple garden lights be connected to one cable?
If you clearly communicate your needs to your trusted electrician, this should not be a problem; if it is, find another one quickly.
Still, you could do the installation work yourself and save some money.
Basically, you need an underground cable for wiring since it will be installed outdoors. For your facade lighting (not the carport), NYM cable might be possible, but personally, I don’t find that ideal.
Garden lighting:
For garden lighting, NYY-J 3x2.5mm² (about 3x14 AWG) cable might be suitable. This depends on the cable lengths and the power of the lights. In some cases, 1.5mm² (about 16 AWG) might suffice.
You can lay the underground cable directly in the ground; ideally, place a yellow warning tape with a notice like “high-voltage cable” above it so you don’t accidentally dig it up years later (about 60–80cm (24–31 inches) deep, below the frost line).
Start laying from your main distribution board, through the ground, to the first target point, leave a generous loop (for later light connection), then continue to the next point until the last one.
Now you need a light switch, motion sensor, or dusk sensor wherever you want it. From there, run a cable to the distribution board—NYM cable may be sufficient under certain conditions, but underground cable is better.
The corresponding wiring will be done in the switchboard. Alternatively, you can run the supply cable for the lights directly to the switch, motion sensor, or dusk sensor.
The whole setup can be pre-wired; just don't connect it to the circuit breaker until all work is complete.
Carport:
For your carport (or garage?), you should run NYY-J 5x2.5mm² cable, preferably 4mm² (about 12 AWG), underground and connect it to a sub-distribution board.
This way, you can also install a "three-phase power outlet" (16A, three-phase socket) later if desired.
Regarding your outdoor lighting for house and carport:
Your idea to be able to switch it from inside is good. Consider adding a motion sensor; via the internal switch, you can either turn on continuous light or activate the motion sensor.
If you want to control the carport lighting this way as well, I suggest running a second cable to the carport. Otherwise, you could set up a circuit with motion sensors and maybe a switch directly in the carport and connect the whole system to the sub-distribution board.
If needed, I can prepare a wiring diagram with the necessary circuit breakers and other details.
Very important: Always use a dedicated residual current device (RCD) for outdoor circuits. Due to moisture, it’s more likely to trip, and we don’t want the whole house to go dark immediately.
I hope this is somewhat clear; it's getting late.
Point 2:
A drawing would be helpful. Otherwise, it’s not a very difficult task.
Best regards and good night
Thank you very much
But what are NYM and a motion detector? (I am a woman )
Motion detector = motion detector
NYM is the grey electrical installation cable commonly used in houses.
The downside of NYM is that it cannot always be installed everywhere without restrictions, for example in concrete (only if laid inside a protective conduit).
Just try googling NYM and looking at some pictures, then you’ll understand what I mean.
Regarding point 2, I will come up with something during the day. A picture would be helpful.
a small off-topic:
Do you happen to know the typical amount assigned to electrical work according to the standard building scope?
We had two quotes here, and they only wanted to credit us 2900€ for the electrical work.
Although I come from the industry and therefore don’t know the prices 100%, in my opinion no electrician can deliver a compliant installation for 2900€.
Do you happen to know the typical amount assigned to electrical work according to the standard building scope?
We had two quotes here, and they only wanted to credit us 2900€ for the electrical work.
Although I come from the industry and therefore don’t know the prices 100%, in my opinion no electrician can deliver a compliant installation for 2900€.
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