ᐅ Floor plan design for a detached house with approximately 145 square meters
Created on: 6 Jun 2019 10:53
G
goalkeeper
Hello everyone,
We are going to build an end-of-terrace house together with a general contractor and have, of course, already planned the floor plans and thought them through accordingly.
The plot measures 10 x 21m (33 x 69 ft), and as currently planned, the maximum available space has been used up, leaving us with enough room for the garden.
On the ground floor, the staircase will be closed off at the bottom and then used as additional storage for drinks or cleaning supplies. The utility connections will also be located in the cloakroom—my wife wanted a separate room so that shoes and jackets don’t always clutter the hallway.
From November, we will be four people, so we have decided to live together on one floor (the upper floor) with our two very small children, as it is simply more practical. A requirement for our master bedroom was the possibility to place a wardrobe 3m (10 ft) wide. However, we are still not completely satisfied with the layout of the upper floor, although we cannot think of any alternatives. The bathroom should stay the same size.
The attic will include a guest room, which will mainly serve as a playroom for the children and me. A large dormer will be added there. Later, one of the older children could move up there, and the two children's bedrooms on the upper floor would be combined into one large room. We both need a home office, so it is designed somewhat larger.
We intentionally moved the technical equipment to the attic because we are building without a basement, which would have meant placing it on the ground floor. That would have significantly reduced the available space there. We will also use this area for the washing machine and dryer, as well as an additional storage room.
Additionally, we will have a converted loft with a height of 1.36m (4 ft 6 in) as extra storage space.
I look forward to your suggestions.
We are going to build an end-of-terrace house together with a general contractor and have, of course, already planned the floor plans and thought them through accordingly.
The plot measures 10 x 21m (33 x 69 ft), and as currently planned, the maximum available space has been used up, leaving us with enough room for the garden.
On the ground floor, the staircase will be closed off at the bottom and then used as additional storage for drinks or cleaning supplies. The utility connections will also be located in the cloakroom—my wife wanted a separate room so that shoes and jackets don’t always clutter the hallway.
From November, we will be four people, so we have decided to live together on one floor (the upper floor) with our two very small children, as it is simply more practical. A requirement for our master bedroom was the possibility to place a wardrobe 3m (10 ft) wide. However, we are still not completely satisfied with the layout of the upper floor, although we cannot think of any alternatives. The bathroom should stay the same size.
The attic will include a guest room, which will mainly serve as a playroom for the children and me. A large dormer will be added there. Later, one of the older children could move up there, and the two children's bedrooms on the upper floor would be combined into one large room. We both need a home office, so it is designed somewhat larger.
We intentionally moved the technical equipment to the attic because we are building without a basement, which would have meant placing it on the ground floor. That would have significantly reduced the available space there. We will also use this area for the washing machine and dryer, as well as an additional storage room.
Additionally, we will have a converted loft with a height of 1.36m (4 ft 6 in) as extra storage space.
I look forward to your suggestions.
How wide is your building envelope? Is there perhaps a few centimeters of extra space? In the upper floor, the staircase and hallway can hardly be made any smaller, and if you seriously plan to have a 300 cm (10 ft) wardrobe, it won’t fit upstairs: first, the construction won’t be exactly on the centimeter, then you have to subtract 4 cm (1.5 in) of plaster on both sides and at least 3 cm (1.2 in) for the trim. So a rough structural dimension of about 310 cm (10 ft 2 in) would be necessary.
Are you sure a 300 cm (10 ft) wardrobe is enough for two people? There is a lot of unused space in the bathroom’s center—the lower left bathroom wall and door could be moved about 30 cm (12 in) to the right, which would create a niche for a built-in wardrobe almost 3 m (10 ft) wide but less deep. The usability of the bathroom would hardly be affected by this. I would fight for every centimeter there.
And on the ground floor, as already mentioned, I would make the foyer larger so that at least shoe cabinets can fit. Shift the kitchen wall about 15 cm (6 in) to the left and move the WC wall about 20 cm (8 in) to the right, moving the entrance door to the right as well, and have the WC door open outward. Suddenly, 40 cm (16 in) deep cabinets fit on the right side of the foyer.
You can also set the height of the kitchen window’s sill so that the desired kitchen worktop height allows for a flush connection, meaning the countertop also serves as the window sill. For this, you need the worktop height of your kitchen and the desired floor build-up.
Are you sure a 300 cm (10 ft) wardrobe is enough for two people? There is a lot of unused space in the bathroom’s center—the lower left bathroom wall and door could be moved about 30 cm (12 in) to the right, which would create a niche for a built-in wardrobe almost 3 m (10 ft) wide but less deep. The usability of the bathroom would hardly be affected by this. I would fight for every centimeter there.
And on the ground floor, as already mentioned, I would make the foyer larger so that at least shoe cabinets can fit. Shift the kitchen wall about 15 cm (6 in) to the left and move the WC wall about 20 cm (8 in) to the right, moving the entrance door to the right as well, and have the WC door open outward. Suddenly, 40 cm (16 in) deep cabinets fit on the right side of the foyer.
You can also set the height of the kitchen window’s sill so that the desired kitchen worktop height allows for a flush connection, meaning the countertop also serves as the window sill. For this, you need the worktop height of your kitchen and the desired floor build-up.
B
boxandroof6 Jun 2019 13:36goalkeeper schrieb:
The door from the foyer to the living room will probably be a sliding door, so that a small coat rack can fit on the left side.Where would the door slide to?Do yourself and us a favor by sketching the plot with the planned parking spaces as well as the outdoor storage area.
Also, please draw in your furniture, especially the kitchen as you plan to furnish it.
I would place the washing machine and dryer under the sloped ceiling in the attic/storage room. There is natural light through the double casement window and space for a drying rack or laundry sorting and an ironing board (guest room).
Then you can consider the best way to plan the wardrobe area: either a recess off the kitchen, or in the utility room, or an extension of the hallway around half of the staircase… it depends on how the furniture fits. Right now, there is an awkward open space in front of the stairs…
Also, please draw in your furniture, especially the kitchen as you plan to furnish it.
I would place the washing machine and dryer under the sloped ceiling in the attic/storage room. There is natural light through the double casement window and space for a drying rack or laundry sorting and an ironing board (guest room).
Then you can consider the best way to plan the wardrobe area: either a recess off the kitchen, or in the utility room, or an extension of the hallway around half of the staircase… it depends on how the furniture fits. Right now, there is an awkward open space in front of the stairs…
G
goalkeeper6 Jun 2019 16:24Scout schrieb:
How wide is your building envelope? Is there maybe a few centimeters of extra space? Upstairs, you can hardly make the staircase and hallway any smaller, and if you seriously plan to have a 300 cm (118 inches) closet, it won’t fit up there: first, the walls won’t be built exactly to the centimeter, then you have 4 cm (1.6 inches) of plaster on both sides plus at least 3 cm (1.2 inches) for the baseboards. So, a rough opening of about 310 cm (122 inches) would be needed.We will increase the rough wall by three centimeters (1.2 inches). According to the general contractor, then our closet will fit. The baseboards can be omitted. One side won’t be plastered but just skim coated, since it is a gypsum wallboard.
Scout schrieb:
Are you sure a 300 cm (118 inches) closet will be enough for two people? In the bathroom, there is a lot of unused space in the middle—if you move the lower left bathroom wall and door about 30 cm (12 inches) to the right, you would free up a niche for a shallow but roughly 3 m (10 feet) wide built-in closet without compromising the bathroom’s usability much. I’d fight for every centimeter here.That’s enough for us—we currently have the same size. Also, a larger chest of drawers will be added. But the built-in closet is definitely a cool idea. We will discuss it.
Scout schrieb:
And on the ground floor, as mentioned before, I would enlarge the foyer so that at least shoe cabinets can fit. Move the kitchen wall about 15 cm (6 inches) to the left, and in the toilet shift the wall about 20 cm (8 inches) to the right, moving the front door to the right as well, and have the toilet door open outwards. Then you could even fit 40 cm (16 inches) deep cabinets on the right side of the foyer.Good point as well—we have to check if then the kitchen or the toilet together with the utility/storage room will become too small again.
Scout schrieb:
You can also set the kitchen window sill height so that it lines up perfectly with your desired countertop height, meaning the countertop would double as the window sill. For that, you need your kitchen’s countertop height and the intended floor build-up.Good idea—we will consider that in the planning.
ypg schrieb:
Do yourself a favor, not just us, and draw the plot including the planned parking spaces as well as the outdoor storage room. Also, please mark your furniture and especially the kitchen with the proposed layout.We aren’t that far with the kitchen planning yet—but it will probably be a U-shape with a small counter in front. I have attached a rough sketch of the other furniture.
We are still unsure how to arrange the parking spaces. We must designate two. Either one in front of the house and one beside it, or both on the side. The latter means you have to park one behind the other, so you might have to move cars around frequently to get the right one out. Unfortunately, there won’t be any designated public parking on our street.
Once we have finalized one option, the floor-to-ceiling window will be shifted accordingly, as shown in the attachment. Positioned quite close to the garden shed, so you can reach the stroller from there.
goalkeeper schrieb:
Good point as well – we need to check whether the kitchen or the toilet including the utility room/wardrobe would become too small again.No, the utility room will remain as drawn; only the left side wall of the toilet (the one with the door) will move further to the right. The toilet space will naturally become tight, but since the door opens outward, the situation will be somewhat more comfortable. And what will you and your family use more often or appreciate having extra space for – the wardrobe or the toilet?Just imagine that there are already jackets, shoes, and other small items like backpacks, gloves, etc., from 4 adults (including two guests) and your 2 small children hanging and lying there. Now you want to say goodbye to your visitors in the hallway… it’s already going to be tight enough!
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