ᐅ Which type of garage floor is best suited for easy cleaning and resistance to dirt?
Created on: 18 Aug 2019 22:26
N
netzplan
Hello everyone,
The strip foundation for our double garage is already completed. Now the gravel is being prepared, and then the floor slab (probably 15cm (6 inches) thick) will be poured.
The driveway in front of the garage is about 8m (26 feet) away from the street. So far, the contractor has laid the gravel so that the floor slab will be approximately 10cm (4 inches) above street level. However, he recommends 15cm (6 inches) and therefore suggested an additional 5cm (2 inches) of screed or similar material to reach this height.
1. Question: Is screed suitable for a garage floor, or should we raise the floor slab by 5cm (2 inches) and install an industrial-grade floor covering? According to the contractor, the raw floor should not be left as is, because, for example, saltwater in winter could damage the floor.
2. Where is the usual position for a finishing strip at the garage entrance? For example, with a sectional door. Should the floor (e.g., screed or industrial floor) be laid up to the inner edge of the walls at the garage entrance, with the exterior/paving stones installed slightly inside the garage entrance (i.e., accounting for the wall thickness of the garage entrance)? If so, this would need to be considered during the slab formwork.
Best regards
The strip foundation for our double garage is already completed. Now the gravel is being prepared, and then the floor slab (probably 15cm (6 inches) thick) will be poured.
The driveway in front of the garage is about 8m (26 feet) away from the street. So far, the contractor has laid the gravel so that the floor slab will be approximately 10cm (4 inches) above street level. However, he recommends 15cm (6 inches) and therefore suggested an additional 5cm (2 inches) of screed or similar material to reach this height.
1. Question: Is screed suitable for a garage floor, or should we raise the floor slab by 5cm (2 inches) and install an industrial-grade floor covering? According to the contractor, the raw floor should not be left as is, because, for example, saltwater in winter could damage the floor.
2. Where is the usual position for a finishing strip at the garage entrance? For example, with a sectional door. Should the floor (e.g., screed or industrial floor) be laid up to the inner edge of the walls at the garage entrance, with the exterior/paving stones installed slightly inside the garage entrance (i.e., accounting for the wall thickness of the garage entrance)? If so, this would need to be considered during the slab formwork.
Best regards
Thank you. I am now also leaning towards this type of floor (so no screed or similar). In terms of abrasion (car tires, dropped tools, etc.), I believe this floor should be suitable.
Regarding the formwork, I will discuss again with the construction company to ensure they only pour the floor up to the inner edge of the exterior wall (garage entrance). The formwork is already in place, but it should not be a problem to attach additional planks or beams about 5m (16.4 feet) wide (the gate width) from the inside onto the existing formwork, matching the thickness of the masonry. (The masonry is 24cm (9.5 inches)). At this point (meaning the inner edge), a finishing strip is installed where the sectional garage door will rest.
Regarding the formwork, I will discuss again with the construction company to ensure they only pour the floor up to the inner edge of the exterior wall (garage entrance). The formwork is already in place, but it should not be a problem to attach additional planks or beams about 5m (16.4 feet) wide (the gate width) from the inside onto the existing formwork, matching the thickness of the masonry. (The masonry is 24cm (9.5 inches)). At this point (meaning the inner edge), a finishing strip is installed where the sectional garage door will rest.
fragg schrieb:
There is liquid PVC or "garage coating" available in buckets. Check at Norma. You paint it onto the floor and it is oil-resistant. You can completely forget about that. You will be patching it every year. It only works on screed because you can’t get a perfectly smooth concrete surface.
And don’t forget the slope when pouring concrete!
Hello questioner.
After reading the previous "answers," you will probably continue to watch your construction site with questions, as I assume.
However, your questions can be answered as follows:
If the garage floor has been concreted, it usually does not require an additional bonded screed.
So you can save the extra 50mm (2 inches) of build-up height. However, it depends on whether the concrete surface was well troweled/smoothed or delivered as a "broom finish."
In the latter case, it would be more complex because a bonded screed should be applied.
The construction company's advice to you that the finished surface of the garage floor must be protected is correct! Whether with or without a bonded screed.
This means the surface should be ground, vacuumed, primed, and coated with, for example, an abrasion-resistant concrete paint. This would at least be an economical option.
Regarding question 2 (edge trim):
This can be quite useful (better: recommended) as an angle profile! It protects the concrete or screed edge from damage caused by mechanical stress. The profile is available in stainless steel versions and is glued onto the concrete or screed surface after strip priming with a synthetic resin.
This also provides a visually neat finish, which cannot always be guaranteed during formwork removal (when working on concrete or screed).
I would casually call this item "small change" that can prevent greater damage.
-----------------------------------
I hope I was able to contribute a bit to clarification.
Regards: KlaRa
After reading the previous "answers," you will probably continue to watch your construction site with questions, as I assume.
However, your questions can be answered as follows:
If the garage floor has been concreted, it usually does not require an additional bonded screed.
So you can save the extra 50mm (2 inches) of build-up height. However, it depends on whether the concrete surface was well troweled/smoothed or delivered as a "broom finish."
In the latter case, it would be more complex because a bonded screed should be applied.
The construction company's advice to you that the finished surface of the garage floor must be protected is correct! Whether with or without a bonded screed.
This means the surface should be ground, vacuumed, primed, and coated with, for example, an abrasion-resistant concrete paint. This would at least be an economical option.
Regarding question 2 (edge trim):
This can be quite useful (better: recommended) as an angle profile! It protects the concrete or screed edge from damage caused by mechanical stress. The profile is available in stainless steel versions and is glued onto the concrete or screed surface after strip priming with a synthetic resin.
This also provides a visually neat finish, which cannot always be guaranteed during formwork removal (when working on concrete or screed).
I would casually call this item "small change" that can prevent greater damage.
-----------------------------------
I hope I was able to contribute a bit to clarification.
Regards: KlaRa
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