ᐅ Separating the knee wall from the living space – what is durable?
Created on: 9 Oct 2020 18:23
B
Babenhausen
Hello dear forum,
We have about 10 meters (33 feet) of knee wall available from our attic conversion, which we want to fill with large Ikea boxes.
Now we are wondering how to separate the knee wall from the living area. The knee wall is about 95cm (37 inches) high at the front and is divided into three sections measuring 4.39m (14 ft 5 in), 3.80m (12 ft 6 in), and 2.08m (6 ft 10 in). The widths of the compartments vary.
We have already considered a sliding door, but those quickly cost around 4,000–5,000 €. At Bauhaus there are cheaper options, but they are only 1m (3 ft 3 in) or 1.8m (5 ft 11 in) wide. Venetian blinds and pleated blinds are available at 2.2m (7 ft 3 in) for about 200 €, but are they durable enough? A simple fabric curtain with roller hanging gathers dust too quickly.
What other ideas do you have for effectively separating the knee wall while still making good use of the space?
We have about 10 meters (33 feet) of knee wall available from our attic conversion, which we want to fill with large Ikea boxes.
Now we are wondering how to separate the knee wall from the living area. The knee wall is about 95cm (37 inches) high at the front and is divided into three sections measuring 4.39m (14 ft 5 in), 3.80m (12 ft 6 in), and 2.08m (6 ft 10 in). The widths of the compartments vary.
We have already considered a sliding door, but those quickly cost around 4,000–5,000 €. At Bauhaus there are cheaper options, but they are only 1m (3 ft 3 in) or 1.8m (5 ft 11 in) wide. Venetian blinds and pleated blinds are available at 2.2m (7 ft 3 in) for about 200 €, but are they durable enough? A simple fabric curtain with roller hanging gathers dust too quickly.
What other ideas do you have for effectively separating the knee wall while still making good use of the space?
B
Babenhausen12 Oct 2020 09:09Hello,
thank you very much for all the responses.
I think the idea with the panel and magnets is a good solution. For this opening, I can use two panels each 2.2 m (7.2 ft) long, place them on the floor, and install two magnets or two metal plates at the top so the panels don’t tip forward.
Would you simply use magnetic catches from the internet or a hardware store that are normally intended for regular (cabinet) doors, or do you have any special recommendations?
Closing the “compartments” with doors is rather difficult because they vary in width. Also, it’s not possible to make them “disappear” so that you have a full view of the knee wall and can easily move things from left to right.
PS: There should only be spiders in the knee wall that were already in the room before — it’s quite well sealed towards the back and top. Anyone who finds a spider can keep it.
thank you very much for all the responses.
I think the idea with the panel and magnets is a good solution. For this opening, I can use two panels each 2.2 m (7.2 ft) long, place them on the floor, and install two magnets or two metal plates at the top so the panels don’t tip forward.
Would you simply use magnetic catches from the internet or a hardware store that are normally intended for regular (cabinet) doors, or do you have any special recommendations?
Closing the “compartments” with doors is rather difficult because they vary in width. Also, it’s not possible to make them “disappear” so that you have a full view of the knee wall and can easily move things from left to right.
PS: There should only be spiders in the knee wall that were already in the room before — it’s quite well sealed towards the back and top. Anyone who finds a spider can keep it.
D
derschwax12 Oct 2020 10:13Your timber beams have enough depth for installing standard magnetic catches (according to the photo).
If you decide to use magnets:
- Cut the wooden panel(s) to size
- Attach the magnetic catches to the vertical battens
- Take the measurements of the catches
- Glue metal strips onto the wooden panels
Depending on the thickness, you can also screw the metal strips in place, but gluing is usually sufficient (with the right adhesive).
If you decide to use magnets:
- Cut the wooden panel(s) to size
- Attach the magnetic catches to the vertical battens
- Take the measurements of the catches
- Glue metal strips onto the wooden panels
Depending on the thickness, you can also screw the metal strips in place, but gluing is usually sufficient (with the right adhesive).
P
pagoni202012 Oct 2020 10:58Whether 2.20m (7 feet 3 inches) panels make sense depends on your situation, especially considering material thickness, weight, and ease of handling. You might also want to think about adding door handles or knobs to make the panels easier to manage.
The choice of magnets naturally depends on the material thickness and weight as well. Magnets come with different holding forces, so you need to choose ones suitable for the door.
If you’re placing the panels on the floor anyway, you could use just hooks or latches at the top, which would be the simplest and most cost-effective solution.
The choice of magnets naturally depends on the material thickness and weight as well. Magnets come with different holding forces, so you need to choose ones suitable for the door.
If you’re placing the panels on the floor anyway, you could use just hooks or latches at the top, which would be the simplest and most cost-effective solution.
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