ᐅ Sealing the joints between timber logs. Which material is suitable?
Created on: 22 Jan 2013 17:12
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-Hello!
I recently bought a log house built in 1982 with a double-shell wall construction and mineral wool insulation. The interior walls are unfinished, showing the bare wood. Gaps of varying widths have formed between the logs, which the previous owner sealed with silicone. This looks quite unattractive and has partially come loose. I want to remove the silicone and reseal the gaps. The question is what material I should use for this. I believe the sealant needs to remain flexible. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I recently bought a log house built in 1982 with a double-shell wall construction and mineral wool insulation. The interior walls are unfinished, showing the bare wood. Gaps of varying widths have formed between the logs, which the previous owner sealed with silicone. This looks quite unattractive and has partially come loose. I want to remove the silicone and reseal the gaps. The question is what material I should use for this. I believe the sealant needs to remain flexible. Does anyone have any suggestions?
M
MODERATOR24 Jan 2013 11:52Hello Bernie,
These joints are not only a visual issue but also a building physics problem. The exterior walls of the house are no longer airtight, which means heat loss occurs.
Wood “works,” meaning it swells and shrinks depending on the humidity level, and the shrinkage across the grain is much greater. For log beams, which lie across the grain (unlike timber studs), the joints are therefore hardly avoidable; even a sealant won’t help much here.
My advice: cover the interior of the exterior walls with a panel material; this could be drywall (gypsum board) or wood-based panels (but with tongue-and-groove joints).
This might sound like a lot of work, but it would be worthwhile; your house was designed and built before the 1984 thermal insulation regulations, and insulation and airtightness of the building envelope were not such a focus back then.
I estimate the thermal insulation to be about 8–10cm (3–4 inches) of mineral wool – making it even more important to at least ensure airtightness.
These joints are not only a visual issue but also a building physics problem. The exterior walls of the house are no longer airtight, which means heat loss occurs.
Wood “works,” meaning it swells and shrinks depending on the humidity level, and the shrinkage across the grain is much greater. For log beams, which lie across the grain (unlike timber studs), the joints are therefore hardly avoidable; even a sealant won’t help much here.
My advice: cover the interior of the exterior walls with a panel material; this could be drywall (gypsum board) or wood-based panels (but with tongue-and-groove joints).
This might sound like a lot of work, but it would be worthwhile; your house was designed and built before the 1984 thermal insulation regulations, and insulation and airtightness of the building envelope were not such a focus back then.
I estimate the thermal insulation to be about 8–10cm (3–4 inches) of mineral wool – making it even more important to at least ensure airtightness.
K
Kurt1985-121 May 2014 09:16Wood naturally expands and contracts regardless of the season. Cladding the exterior wall is of course labor-intensive. However, there are also specialized sealants, and I would suggest trying something like that first. I was thinking of Domoflex.
R
Ricardo-118 Aug 2014 13:01My recommendation would be to cover this with wooden panels. Insert mineral wool insulation between them. This will be very cost-effective. Energy costs will be drastically reduced as a result.
U
Urs1988-14 Jan 2015 15:30Hello,
That's true, this is going to become an expensive matter. I would simply waterproof it as well. Domoflex has already been mentioned here. I also know Ottocoll M 500, which is water-resistant. It seals very well and will make your beams watertight.
Regards
That's true, this is going to become an expensive matter. I would simply waterproof it as well. Domoflex has already been mentioned here. I also know Ottocoll M 500, which is water-resistant. It seals very well and will make your beams watertight.
Regards
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