An old concrete balcony, previously covered with mosaic tiles, is going to get a new surface.
I won’t go into the reasons here in detail... but I need a step of 2 to 3 cm (1 to 1.2 inches) at the outer edge of the balcony.
For this, I want to lay granite slabs like tiles, meaning they will be glued down and have sealed joints. The stones from the hardware store are granite slabs, 30 by 30 centimeters (12 by 12 inches) in size and 2 centimeters (0.8 inches) thick. There is plenty of space for this (the balcony door is about 7 centimeters (2.8 inches) higher).
I can’t recall seeing something like this before, but I also don’t see what could be against it.
Does anyone have any "pro" or "contra" reasons regarding this?
I won’t go into the reasons here in detail... but I need a step of 2 to 3 cm (1 to 1.2 inches) at the outer edge of the balcony.
For this, I want to lay granite slabs like tiles, meaning they will be glued down and have sealed joints. The stones from the hardware store are granite slabs, 30 by 30 centimeters (12 by 12 inches) in size and 2 centimeters (0.8 inches) thick. There is plenty of space for this (the balcony door is about 7 centimeters (2.8 inches) higher).
I can’t recall seeing something like this before, but I also don’t see what could be against it.
Does anyone have any "pro" or "contra" reasons regarding this?
S
Singelküche1 Apr 2024 19:58Then you need the opposite of a step.
The grates should not be higher than the surface covering, ideally about 1mm (0.04 inches) lower.
If you want to notch it at the edge now, you won’t get a permanently waterproof transition.
The grates should not be higher than the surface covering, ideally about 1mm (0.04 inches) lower.
If you want to notch it at the edge now, you won’t get a permanently waterproof transition.
ateliersiegel schrieb:
Does anyone have any pros or cons for this?The first thing that comes to mind is that you want to create a kind of basin, meaning the area with the black tiles would be tiled about 2–3cm (around 1 inch) higher than the rest… then water won’t be able to flow over the edge. Okay, that’s not supposed to happen anyway, because over time the edge would get damaged. Even if you have a drain, water might still pool.PS. I just saw the responses now… and I don’t understand. So please ignore my comment if it’s not relevant.
Hello
To answer your question precisely: yes, what you plan is possible.
The balcony surface has already withstood several summers and winters, as well as watering.
This means the waterproofing layer underneath has been effective so far.
Why shouldn’t it continue to work? (rhetorical question)
It is advisable to check the slope to ensure that no puddles actually remain in front of the door, as has been assumed so far.
The key point remains the connection between the wall and the new surface covering.
To prevent driving rain from entering through the edge joint, a (new) flashing should be installed at the base.
The old tiled surface should first be diamond ground, vacuumed, and thoroughly cleaned with an alkaline primer cleaner (then rinsed with clear water to neutralize).
Prime with a two-component reactive resin, broadcast with quartz sand 0.7/1.2mm (0.03/0.05 inches) to ensure the adhesion between the old tiled surface and the new build-up does not fail later.
------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
To answer your question precisely: yes, what you plan is possible.
The balcony surface has already withstood several summers and winters, as well as watering.
This means the waterproofing layer underneath has been effective so far.
Why shouldn’t it continue to work? (rhetorical question)
It is advisable to check the slope to ensure that no puddles actually remain in front of the door, as has been assumed so far.
The key point remains the connection between the wall and the new surface covering.
To prevent driving rain from entering through the edge joint, a (new) flashing should be installed at the base.
The old tiled surface should first be diamond ground, vacuumed, and thoroughly cleaned with an alkaline primer cleaner (then rinsed with clear water to neutralize).
Prime with a two-component reactive resin, broadcast with quartz sand 0.7/1.2mm (0.03/0.05 inches) to ensure the adhesion between the old tiled surface and the new build-up does not fail later.
------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
ateliersiegel4 Apr 2024 18:33This is how the situation will look:
The concrete slab is about 14 cm (5.5 inches) thick, and I do not want to cut into it (to create the rebate).
The whole project is still in the planning stage, and I was wondering if there are any reasons against gluing 2 cm (0.8 inches) thick granite slabs.
It makes sense to me that tiles and frost do not get along in the long term.
In the meantime, I am reconsidering staying with wood instead of the granite slabs (which were supposed to be installed on the new balcony). In this case, I would cover the old balcony — after removing the tiles — with a thinner layer of concrete (the product is called "Plan B," so it fits my situation 😉).
Since it is still unclear which materials will be used, discussing this in detail seems too confusing.
I appreciate the tips and comments. 🙂
The concrete slab is about 14 cm (5.5 inches) thick, and I do not want to cut into it (to create the rebate).
The whole project is still in the planning stage, and I was wondering if there are any reasons against gluing 2 cm (0.8 inches) thick granite slabs.
It makes sense to me that tiles and frost do not get along in the long term.
In the meantime, I am reconsidering staying with wood instead of the granite slabs (which were supposed to be installed on the new balcony). In this case, I would cover the old balcony — after removing the tiles — with a thinner layer of concrete (the product is called "Plan B," so it fits my situation 😉).
Since it is still unclear which materials will be used, discussing this in detail seems too confusing.
I appreciate the tips and comments. 🙂
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