ᐅ How can I securely install Ikea Pax wardrobes in an older building?

For sand-lime brick with crumbling plaster, I recommend stabilizing the plaster spots before installation. A firm, sandy repair mortar or a special reinforcing plaster can help to strengthen the surface. For this, roughen and clean the damaged areas, then carefully repair them.

Next, choose the appropriate anchors: metal anchors with a medium minimum length and sufficient load capacity are ideal. The drilling depth should be at least enough to ensure a secure fit for the anchor, even if the surface is uneven.

Before fully tightening the screws, it is advisable to test the fit and, if in doubt, tighten them gently to avoid causing new cracks.

To prevent cracks in the plaster, I recommend lightly sanding the drill holes first and thoroughly removing any dust. Using Fischer SX anchors or comparable heavy-duty anchors has proven effective in such situations. Additionally, drilling a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit before the main hole helps to work more precisely and avoid loosening the plaster.

When installing the Pax wardrobe, be sure to align the mounting points on the wall accurately using a spirit level and markings beforehand. Alternatively, you can attach a slotted batten made of wood or metal to the wall and hang the wardrobe on it to better distribute point loads.

I often secure cabinets in older buildings with a multi-point fixing at the top while letting the cabinet rest on the floor at the bottom to optimally transfer the weight.

Kinbu schrieb:
Alternatively, you can attach a slotted rail made of wood or metal to the wall and hang the cabinet on it to better distribute point loads.

That’s an interesting idea! Has this method been used frequently? I ask because I’m hesitant to experiment directly with anchors in the plaster and prefer a stable base that reduces the risk of plaster damage. Do you think this would be practical, also considering the appearance and the ease of later removal if needed?

marcus schrieb:
Do you think this would be practical, also considering the appearance and easy removal later if needed?

A continuous perforated strip (for example, made of metal or laminated wood) can indeed distribute loads evenly and compensate for localized weaknesses in the wall. For installation, appropriate heavy-duty anchors are used. Visually, the strip can be easily concealed behind the cabinet, which clearly outweighs the benefits. If the cabinet is removed later, only a few drill holes remain in the wall. However, this solution requires more preparation and material effort, but it is highly recommended for older buildings.

marcus schrieb:
I’m asking because I prefer not to experiment directly with anchors in the plaster and rather rely on a solid base that reduces the risk of damage to the plaster.

I feel the same way. In my older apartment, I also hesitated before using anchors. I can recommend the idea of a slotted rail. It distributes the load more evenly, and I had fewer problems with cracks afterward. I also installed my cabinet flush with the floor at the bottom, so the weight is supported not only by the wall but also securely from the floor.

Moldings are good. Important: at least two fastening points at the top with heavy-duty anchors, then the cabinet will be securely fixed.