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Hoschisack3 Nov 2010 11:46Hello everyone
Yesterday, I assembled the new Pax wardrobe. I wanted to install the "Komplement" light strip inside. So I did – the light strip can be switched on and off. However, there is a small issue. I wanted the light to come on when sliding the door open and turn off when the door is closed again. The light strip has a small switch that can be set to on/off (both work) or to Auto. But the Auto function doesn’t seem to work for me. Have I overlooked something important, or is the sensor in the light strip defective? How does the sensor actually work (touch, light, motion, etc.)? The manual didn’t help me much either, but maybe someone in this forum knows about it.
Thanks in advance for all responses and best regards
Hoschi
Yesterday, I assembled the new Pax wardrobe. I wanted to install the "Komplement" light strip inside. So I did – the light strip can be switched on and off. However, there is a small issue. I wanted the light to come on when sliding the door open and turn off when the door is closed again. The light strip has a small switch that can be set to on/off (both work) or to Auto. But the Auto function doesn’t seem to work for me. Have I overlooked something important, or is the sensor in the light strip defective? How does the sensor actually work (touch, light, motion, etc.)? The manual didn’t help me much either, but maybe someone in this forum knows about it.
Thanks in advance for all responses and best regards
Hoschi
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Maverick18545 Nov 2010 08:38Quite simply, the light strip only works when there is light from outside. This means it needs light to function. Open the blinds and the light will work. It is meant to provide supplementary lighting, not to fully illuminate your closet in the dark.
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Hoschisack5 Nov 2010 08:44Thank you for the quick response. However, the sensor on the light strip definitely seems to be broken. I have opened and closed this cabinet door at least 40 times under various conditions. Many times, there was enough light in the room for the strip to have turned on. It seems I have no choice but to have the unit replaced.
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Maverick18546 Nov 2010 21:16Probably every builder knows this situation: you want to carry out a trench foundation. But then you realize that the excavator bucket is too wide for the planned width of the foundation trench. What to do? Of course, you could try to dig by hand, but that takes a lot of time and effort. Or you can look for solutions to adjust the excavation width.
One possibility is to use a narrower excavator bucket, often called a ditching bucket or trench bucket. These come in various widths and are specially designed for digging narrow trenches. When selecting such a bucket, be sure to check the internal width and depth that correspond to your foundation plan.
Another approach is to use adjustable trench boxes or formwork to ensure the walls of the trench are stable even if the excavation is slightly wider than originally planned. This might also be necessary due to soil conditions or building regulations.
Keep in mind the requirements for frost protection depth and possible drainage systems below the foundation, which may influence the dimensions of your trench. Also, check local requirements for building permits / planning permission regarding foundation work.
In any case, precise planning and consultation with your structural engineer or geotechnical expert can save a lot of trouble during construction. It’s always better to prepare thoroughly than to face unexpected problems on site.
Good luck with your foundation work!
Maverick1854
One possibility is to use a narrower excavator bucket, often called a ditching bucket or trench bucket. These come in various widths and are specially designed for digging narrow trenches. When selecting such a bucket, be sure to check the internal width and depth that correspond to your foundation plan.
Another approach is to use adjustable trench boxes or formwork to ensure the walls of the trench are stable even if the excavation is slightly wider than originally planned. This might also be necessary due to soil conditions or building regulations.
Keep in mind the requirements for frost protection depth and possible drainage systems below the foundation, which may influence the dimensions of your trench. Also, check local requirements for building permits / planning permission regarding foundation work.
In any case, precise planning and consultation with your structural engineer or geotechnical expert can save a lot of trouble during construction. It’s always better to prepare thoroughly than to face unexpected problems on site.
Good luck with your foundation work!
Maverick1854
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polo_355122 Mar 2013 19:01So, I replaced the light strip three times within one week, and it still doesn’t work, while the one in the adjacent cabinet works perfectly fine, regardless of the external light. I think it has something to do with the metal bracket because when I didn’t snap it in on one side, it worked every time???? No idea, neither the store nor the phone support could help me. Maybe someone knows something??? Thank you in advance. ops:
Hello Polo,
I had exactly the same problem. The solution is that the light strip should not be mounted directly on the inside top of the cabinet. This method only works for cabinets with regular hinged doors. For sliding door cabinets, it doesn’t work because the upper guide rail prevents the sensor from functioning properly. You need to first install the supplied spacers so that the LED strip hangs about 4–5 cm (1.5–2 inches) lower. The sensor only works with perfectly horizontal light incidence.
One more tip: If you, like me, have installed those slide door stoppers, make sure to position the LED strip deep enough inside the cabinet, as it will be at the same height as the spacers. Otherwise, you’ll have to start over again.
I hope this helps you as a starting point for your solution.
P.S.: Take another close look at the LED strip installation manual, as it explains the two different mounting methods for hinged doors (without spacers) and sliding doors (with spacers), at least in my manual.
Greetings from the East
Dikster
I had exactly the same problem. The solution is that the light strip should not be mounted directly on the inside top of the cabinet. This method only works for cabinets with regular hinged doors. For sliding door cabinets, it doesn’t work because the upper guide rail prevents the sensor from functioning properly. You need to first install the supplied spacers so that the LED strip hangs about 4–5 cm (1.5–2 inches) lower. The sensor only works with perfectly horizontal light incidence.
One more tip: If you, like me, have installed those slide door stoppers, make sure to position the LED strip deep enough inside the cabinet, as it will be at the same height as the spacers. Otherwise, you’ll have to start over again.
I hope this helps you as a starting point for your solution.
P.S.: Take another close look at the LED strip installation manual, as it explains the two different mounting methods for hinged doors (without spacers) and sliding doors (with spacers), at least in my manual.
Greetings from the East
Dikster
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