Good morning everyone, I recently got a Malm bed from IKEA and noticed that it wobbles a bit when I move or sit on it. This is obviously frustrating, as I want it to be as stable as possible. So my question is: How can I specifically prevent wobbling with Malm beds? What steps or measures are recommended to ensure long-term stability? Are there any known weak points in these beds that I should watch out for? I look forward to your experiences and advice.
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PeoDaniel13 Oct 2022 11:15Hello everyone, regarding this topic, I can add that I followed this approach with a Malm bed:
- First, I regularly tightened all screws at least every 2 months, as they can loosen over time due to movement.
- Second, I placed wooden wedges under the bed legs to compensate for small unevenness in the floor. This significantly reduces wobbling.
- Third, instead of metal brackets, I attached sturdy corner joints made of wooden strips on the inside, which in my opinion improved stability without risking damage to the material.
If you take your time and proceed systematically, even older Malm beds can be made very stable. If necessary, you can also replace the slatted frame, since some inexpensive versions tend not to fit securely.
- First, I regularly tightened all screws at least every 2 months, as they can loosen over time due to movement.
- Second, I placed wooden wedges under the bed legs to compensate for small unevenness in the floor. This significantly reduces wobbling.
- Third, instead of metal brackets, I attached sturdy corner joints made of wooden strips on the inside, which in my opinion improved stability without risking damage to the material.
If you take your time and proceed systematically, even older Malm beds can be made very stable. If necessary, you can also replace the slatted frame, since some inexpensive versions tend not to fit securely.
bapar schrieb:
1. Tighten all screws, especially those on the center beam, using an Allen key – be careful not to overtighten to avoid damaging the wood.It’s interesting to consider this point – what exactly does “not overtightening” mean? With particleboard, the threads can be easily stripped. In your opinion, what would be the best torque values or an alternative installation method to prevent overtightening?
Furthermore, I wonder if the wobbling might be due to structural weaknesses that simply tightening the screws won’t fix. Do you have experience with simple reinforcements, such as gluing or adding extra cross braces?
faso31 schrieb:
What exactly does “not too tight” mean?This is indeed a tricky topic, as IKEA does not provide official torque specifications. Experienced DIYers usually tighten the screw just enough so that the wood does not get compressed or bulge. It’s more a matter of feel than precise measurement.
faso31 schrieb:
Do you have experience with simple reinforcements, like gluing or additional cross braces?Yes, in some cases I have applied wood glue at the joints after disassembling the parts to improve fit. Gluing combined with screws significantly increases strength. Cross braces made of 18mm (0.7 inch) laminated wood between the center beam and outer frame can work wonders if accessible. Another option is to attach metal brackets on the inside, but as mentioned, this should be done carefully since they can introduce stress into the wood.
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benmatteo13 Oct 2022 14:22bapar schrieb:
Experienced DIYers aim to tighten the screw head just enough to avoid crushing or bulging the wood.That helps me a lot since my cordless drill doesn’t have a torque limiter, so I was a bit unsure.
bapar schrieb:
Gluing plus screwing significantly increases strength.Would it be possible to use assembly adhesive instead of wood glue, since it is more flexible? Or is regular wood glue better for strength?
Thanks to everyone else for the tips as well. I think I’ll try using wooden strips and screws combined with felt gliders. I’ll report back once I’ve tested it.
Additional information regarding adhesive: Wood glue (PVAC-based glue) is the best choice because it cures to a very strong bond and can be easily cleaned with water if some spills occur.
Construction adhesive is often more flexible but can become brittle over time or may not achieve the desired strength in wood-to-wood joints. Additionally, construction adhesive makes later disassembly more difficult.
Regarding wobbling, in my experience it is important not only that the joints themselves are secure, but also that the support of the slatted frame is properly positioned. Small rubber pads or silicone stoppers placed between the slatted frame and the side panels can reduce play at these points and thus minimize wobbling.
Construction adhesive is often more flexible but can become brittle over time or may not achieve the desired strength in wood-to-wood joints. Additionally, construction adhesive makes later disassembly more difficult.
Regarding wobbling, in my experience it is important not only that the joints themselves are secure, but also that the support of the slatted frame is properly positioned. Small rubber pads or silicone stoppers placed between the slatted frame and the side panels can reduce play at these points and thus minimize wobbling.
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benmatteo13 Oct 2022 15:38Lorukeo schrieb:
Wood glue (PVAC-based adhesive) is the best choice because it cures to an extremely strong bondThanks, that sounds convincing. I will go ahead and use wood glue.
Rubber buffers or silicone stoppers are not something I would have thought of. Where exactly would you place them? Directly under the slats of the bed base or at the connection points to the frame?
Can anyone provide an assessment on whether it is common for the feet on Malm beds to not be completely tight at the lower crossbar, as I also notice a slight play there?
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