Hello everyone,
I recently purchased an IKEA Hemnes sideboard made of solid pine wood and would like to sand and refinish it to give it a more personalized look. My main goal is to completely remove the varnish or surface treatment applied by IKEA, so I can refinish it myself with either oil or clear lacquer.
I’m interested in which abrasive materials and grit sizes are best suited for the Hemnes, since the wood is relatively soft and I want to avoid removing too much material. Also, advice on the best approach, such as starting with coarse sanding and then fine sanding, and any tips for the final steps—whether oiling or lacquering—would be helpful. Are there specific recommendations regarding whether a random orbital sander is worthwhile or if sanding by hand is better?
Additionally, I would like to know if you have experience with removing the IKEA surface treatments and how to do this effectively without damaging the wood. I’m looking forward to your tips and experiences!
I recently purchased an IKEA Hemnes sideboard made of solid pine wood and would like to sand and refinish it to give it a more personalized look. My main goal is to completely remove the varnish or surface treatment applied by IKEA, so I can refinish it myself with either oil or clear lacquer.
I’m interested in which abrasive materials and grit sizes are best suited for the Hemnes, since the wood is relatively soft and I want to avoid removing too much material. Also, advice on the best approach, such as starting with coarse sanding and then fine sanding, and any tips for the final steps—whether oiling or lacquering—would be helpful. Are there specific recommendations regarding whether a random orbital sander is worthwhile or if sanding by hand is better?
Additionally, I would like to know if you have experience with removing the IKEA surface treatments and how to do this effectively without damaging the wood. I’m looking forward to your tips and experiences!
Hello Lefu61,
I can assist you in great detail with your project since I have worked on several Hemnes furniture pieces before. As you know, IKEA’s Hemnes is made from solid pine, and the original finish is quite stubborn.
- You should start with 80-grit sandpaper to remove the old finish. It’s best to use a random orbital sander for the larger surfaces to achieve an even result. However, be careful not to press too hard, as pine is very soft and can easily become uneven.
- Follow up with sanding using 120 grit and finish with 180 or even 220 grit to get a smooth surface.
- If you are very careful and only want to lightly dull the surface, you can start with 150 grit and then go higher.
- It’s important to remove dust in between sanding steps, ideally with a vacuum cleaner and then a damp cloth, so you can better assess the sanding marks.
For the finishing treatment:
- If you want to keep the natural look, a hard wax oil is highly recommended. It penetrates well, protects the wood, and highlights the grain without a glossy appearance.
- Alternatively, a matte or satin-clear coat with acrylic or PU (polyurethane) varnish can be used, which slightly changes the character and provides a smoother, more durable surface.
Regarding your question about hand sanding versus machine sanding: a random orbital sander is definitely useful for the large surfaces, while you should use sanding blocks or hand sanding for corners and edges. This way, you can better work around curves and profiles.
I also recommend testing the finish removal on an inconspicuous spot if you plan to strip it mechanically or chemically. Chemical strippers are quite aggressive and often unnecessary if you sand correctly.
If you want, I can suggest specific products. How large is your sideboard? That will also affect the sanding time and effort.
I can assist you in great detail with your project since I have worked on several Hemnes furniture pieces before. As you know, IKEA’s Hemnes is made from solid pine, and the original finish is quite stubborn.
- You should start with 80-grit sandpaper to remove the old finish. It’s best to use a random orbital sander for the larger surfaces to achieve an even result. However, be careful not to press too hard, as pine is very soft and can easily become uneven.
- Follow up with sanding using 120 grit and finish with 180 or even 220 grit to get a smooth surface.
- If you are very careful and only want to lightly dull the surface, you can start with 150 grit and then go higher.
- It’s important to remove dust in between sanding steps, ideally with a vacuum cleaner and then a damp cloth, so you can better assess the sanding marks.
For the finishing treatment:
- If you want to keep the natural look, a hard wax oil is highly recommended. It penetrates well, protects the wood, and highlights the grain without a glossy appearance.
- Alternatively, a matte or satin-clear coat with acrylic or PU (polyurethane) varnish can be used, which slightly changes the character and provides a smoother, more durable surface.
Regarding your question about hand sanding versus machine sanding: a random orbital sander is definitely useful for the large surfaces, while you should use sanding blocks or hand sanding for corners and edges. This way, you can better work around curves and profiles.
I also recommend testing the finish removal on an inconspicuous spot if you plan to strip it mechanically or chemically. Chemical strippers are quite aggressive and often unnecessary if you sand correctly.
If you want, I can suggest specific products. How large is your sideboard? That will also affect the sanding time and effort.
M
Marcellela8 Mar 2024 12:47Short and precise:
- Start with 80-grit sandpaper using an orbital sander.
- Then sand finer with 120-grit, followed by 180-220 grit.
- Remove dust in between.
- Finishing: hard wax oil for a natural look, clear lacquer for more protection.
- Better to sand corners by hand.
This keeps the process simple and effective.
- Start with 80-grit sandpaper using an orbital sander.
- Then sand finer with 120-grit, followed by 180-220 grit.
- Remove dust in between.
- Finishing: hard wax oil for a natural look, clear lacquer for more protection.
- Better to sand corners by hand.
This keeps the process simple and effective.
Domau0 schrieb:
First, you should start with an 80-grit sandpaper to remove the old paint.That’s a great point. Additionally, I would emphasize the importance of always sanding in the direction of the wood grain. Even though an orbital sander works faster, sanding across the grain can damage the wood fibers.
Marcellela schrieb:
Remove dust in between.Absolutely. I like to use a slightly damp cloth after sanding to remove the fine dust, which helps the oil or paint absorb and adhere better.
In general, I recommend thoroughly checking the surface after sanding, especially the edges, as soft pine wood can wear down quickly there. It’s best to treat the wood immediately after sanding and not wait too long, as dust and residues can settle and become trapped.
Regarding paint stripper: if you decide to use it, always test it on a small, inconspicuous area first, since some products can roughen or discolor the wood. I would generally only resort to chemical removal if sanding is too labor-intensive or if the piece contains very delicate details.
Also important: when working with oil, apply several thin coats and allow each layer to dry completely.
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