ᐅ How can I paint Ikea HEMNES furniture myself?

Created on: 17 Aug 2020 09:37
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Frashane
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Frashane
17 Aug 2020 09:37
Hello everyone,

I plan to repaint some of my Ikea Hemnes furniture pieces, specifically a small table and a chest of drawers, to give them a more personal touch and make them more resistant to wear and tear. I’m particularly interested in achieving a durable surface with a matte finish. My question is how to approach this best: What preparation steps are absolutely necessary to properly prepare the original surface for the new paint without damaging the furniture? Which sandpaper grit and sanding technique are suitable, and what about primer and the actual paint – water-based or rather traditional solvent-based paint? Are there any special tips or common pitfalls when painting HEMNES furniture that I should definitely be aware of?

I would really appreciate a detailed guide or explanations that explain step by step how to proceed, including recommendations for tools and materials. Thank you very much in advance!
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PAR63
17 Aug 2020 13:42
Hello Frashane,

First of all, this is a great topic and a very sensible question. HEMNES furniture is often coated with paint or a paint film, which makes the preparation a bit more specific.

- Preparation: Start by removing all handles and any detachable parts, so you can work on them separately.
- Cleaning: Clean the surfaces thoroughly with a mild cleaner to ensure no grease or dirt affects adhesion.
- Sanding: The most important step is lightly sanding with fine sandpaper; I recommend a grit of 220 to 240. It is important to sand only lightly to dull the existing paint layer, not to remove it completely, as this could damage the surface.
- Dust removal: Always remove dust thoroughly after sanding, possibly with a damp cloth or microfiber cloth.
- Primer: For HEMNES furniture, I strongly recommend using an adhesion primer specifically designed for smooth surfaces — this greatly improves the bond of the new paint.
- Paint type: Water-based paints (acrylic paints) are very suitable nowadays, low in odor, and environmentally friendly. They have a long drying time and are easy to apply. Solvent-based paints are more durable but require more care and ventilation.
- Painting: Apply in thin layers, preferably several thin coats rather than one thick one, and lightly sand between coats (grit 320) to improve adhesion.

Typical mistakes are insufficient sanding and applying paint directly without primer.

If you like, I can also provide an example sequence to help you feel more confident. I hope this already helps you!
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Jaime
18 Aug 2020 11:03
PAR63 schrieb:
It is important to only lightly sand to dull the existing paint layer, not to sand it off completely, as this could damage the surface.

I would like to add that careful sanding is crucial not only for the surface but also for moisture protection. If you sand too aggressively, the underlying MDF board or wood may swell or absorb paint unevenly.

Therefore, my advice is to do a test on a corner if you notice an uneven surface.

Also, I recommend paying close attention to choosing a primer that is specifically formulated for MDF or wood-based materials.

If you don’t want to apply the paint directly from the can with a brush, a fine-textured paint roller (such as foam or microfiber-covered) is suitable for large areas. For edges and small spots, I prefer a good-quality brush with fine synthetic bristles.

I have worked on my HEMNES dressers using water-based eco-friendly paint and had good results; the finish is very durable with normal use.

A final sealant is generally not necessary with water-based paints, as they usually provide sufficient protection on their own.
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lomin
19 Aug 2020 17:26
Frashane schrieb:
What preparation steps are absolutely necessary to properly prepare the original surface for the new paint without damaging the furniture?

From my own experience, patience and thorough work during preparation are really important. At first, I was quite unsure and worried that I might damage the wood too much or end up with an uneven finish.

What particularly helped me, as PAR63 mentioned, was to work very carefully with fine sandpaper. I also left my HEMNES furniture in a dry place for several hours before painting to ensure that there was no moisture left in the wood.

Masking the edges and adjacent surfaces that should not be painted also saved me a lot of trouble—nothing is more frustrating than having to remove paint afterwards.

When the paint was finally applied, I felt really proud of the result, even though I was quite uncertain at the beginning.

If anyone else is dealing with similar concerns: good preparation takes time but is worth it. And stay calm if things don’t look perfect at first!