ᐅ Is it possible to control roller shutters with a switch and add wireless operation later?
Created on: 9 Apr 2015 22:46
L
Legurit
We have now received quotes for both radio-controlled and switch-operated roller shutters for our new build. Due to the price and partly because I’m worried about losing or misplacing the remote control, we are strongly leaning towards the switch solution.
Is it possible to retrofit radio receivers into the electrical boxes later on—if we find that constantly walking back and forth is too tiring—and then control the shutters via radio through this setup?
Also, I would be interested to know where you installed your switches—directly at the window or grouped together centrally?
Thanks for your input!
Is it possible to retrofit radio receivers into the electrical boxes later on—if we find that constantly walking back and forth is too tiring—and then control the shutters via radio through this setup?
Also, I would be interested to know where you installed your switches—directly at the window or grouped together centrally?
Thanks for your input!
Kikolool schrieb:
We have radio-controlled motors but with external switches that you can basically stick anywhere on the wall. There is also a remote control that lets me group the individual blinds.
So I can walk up to the window and press the switch, set an automatic program (timer), or control the groups using the remote control.
This was the most flexible solution for us.Sounds very good. So you can lower the windows individually with the switch or lower grouped blinds using the remote control, and possibly program a timer on the remote as well. Or is the timer installed separately? Can you also control the windows individually with the remote control?
The timer function has to be programmed directly on the remote control.
I chose these wireless wall switches because sometimes I want to lower a shutter on site without having to look for the remote control first. The great thing is that you can stick the switch anywhere since it communicates wirelessly with the motor.
The downside is that there is no longer a cable connected to the motor, so if the wireless connection fails... well!
Another (minor) disadvantage is that our remote control supports a maximum of 8 shutters, so I have two remotes. But I can live with that.
I initially considered retrofitting the system later to save costs, but then all the motors would have to be replaced, which would ultimately be more expensive.
We ended up paying about 270€ extra per window, including all wireless switches and remotes. The additional cost is based on manual shutters with a strap.
I chose these wireless wall switches because sometimes I want to lower a shutter on site without having to look for the remote control first. The great thing is that you can stick the switch anywhere since it communicates wirelessly with the motor.
The downside is that there is no longer a cable connected to the motor, so if the wireless connection fails... well!
Another (minor) disadvantage is that our remote control supports a maximum of 8 shutters, so I have two remotes. But I can live with that.
I initially considered retrofitting the system later to save costs, but then all the motors would have to be replaced, which would ultimately be more expensive.
We ended up paying about 270€ extra per window, including all wireless switches and remotes. The additional cost is based on manual shutters with a strap.
D
DerBjoern19 May 2015 23:07I also have push buttons next to every window. Additionally, I am gradually upgrading my switches (I already have a few) with actuators from "Homematic." This allows for endless possibilities. With these, you can control each roller shutter individually, several at once, or all together via smartphone, tablet, PC, or remote control, however you like. Furthermore, the Homematic central unit lets you program all kinds of scenarios, for example, time-dependent, wind-dependent, based on sun position, or depending on sunshine/cloud cover.
As a small tip, if you're planning to retrofit something like this, it’s advisable to use deep electrical boxes for all sockets and switches to have enough space for installing the actuators. My electrician didn’t charge extra for this.
As a small tip, if you're planning to retrofit something like this, it’s advisable to use deep electrical boxes for all sockets and switches to have enough space for installing the actuators. My electrician didn’t charge extra for this.
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