ᐅ Access from the garage to the utility room

Created on: 21 Sep 2020 13:18
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SebastianH.
Hello,

we are considering adding an access door from the garage to the house, specifically into the utility room, as part of our planning. The issue is that the garage is located 1 meter (3 feet) away from the neighbor's property. If I remember correctly, it should be at least 3 meters (10 feet) away if there is direct access between the garage and the house. I have already checked the garage regulations for LSA but could not find a relevant clause.

Does anyone have experience with this topic and can provide more detailed information? Moving the garage further away to achieve 3 meters (10 feet) distance is not possible.
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Fleckenzwerg
29 Sep 2020 13:10
For us, the path from the garage to the front door has been established for quite some time:

Description of the floor plan: Open living/dining/kitchen area, office, hallway, utility room, shower/WC, and garage.


However, as already mentioned, whether it will actually be used as intended is a matter of daily routine and habits, which becomes clear after living there for at least one year (experiencing all seasons).

Floor plan: Living/dining/kitchen, office, hallway, utility room, shower/WC, garage.
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T_im_Norden
29 Sep 2020 13:31
ypg schrieb:

because it’s always raining here when we get home. My house, my car, my extra-door garage/house – that’s all there is. A status symbol.
Nonsense.
11ant29 Sep 2020 15:10
SebastianH. schrieb:

Would you plan all the walls on the ground floor from calcium silicate units for sound insulation reasons? The wall between the kitchen and utility room still worries me a bit (hanging cabinets, etc.)

Not because of the hanging cabinets—there are anchors from the inventor of the Rubik’s Cube for basically every wall material you can build with—but: in your ground floor plan, all non-load-bearing walls are listed as drywall. That seems like an April Fool’s joke to me. What kind of cheap builder did you get?
I would rather go for gypsum fiberboard, but using calcium silicate units is also a solid choice.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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SebastianH.
29 Sep 2020 15:22
11ant schrieb:

Not because of the wall cabinets—there are anchors from the inventor of the Blitz cube for any material you can build walls from—but in your ground floor plan, all non-load-bearing walls are marked as "drywall." That seems like an April Fools' joke to me. What kind of cheap construction company did you end up with?
I would rather use gypsum boards, but using sand-lime bricks isn't wrong either.

As I said, I am not an expert. The developer is tied to our desired plot.
The question is whether we should change everything now based on your statement? The application is already submitted to the building authority (building permit / planning permission), and we were actually satisfied. Now it sounds more like "for God's sake, what have you done?"
11ant29 Sep 2020 15:36
SebastianH. schrieb:

The question is whether we should now change everything because of your statement?? The application is already submitted to the building authority / planning permission office, and we were actually satisfied. Now it sounds more like "for heaven’s sake, what did you do there?"

It doesn’t come to that that someone stops the world because of my nonsense. No panic, just read the specifications carefully again. If the load-bearing wall on the ground floor is made of calcium silicate brick, I would use the others the same way; otherwise, gypsum boards would work just as well for me. However, apartment building contractors are more experienced in working with those than single-family house builders.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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SebastianH.
29 Sep 2020 16:01
This is the text from the SBB
Drywall interior walls: stud walls, 10 cm (4 inches) thick; bathroom 12.5 cm (5 inches); double-layered drywall.