Hello,
we are considering adding an access door from the garage to the house, specifically into the utility room, as part of our planning. The issue is that the garage is located 1 meter (3 feet) away from the neighbor's property. If I remember correctly, it should be at least 3 meters (10 feet) away if there is direct access between the garage and the house. I have already checked the garage regulations for LSA but could not find a relevant clause.
Does anyone have experience with this topic and can provide more detailed information? Moving the garage further away to achieve 3 meters (10 feet) distance is not possible.
we are considering adding an access door from the garage to the house, specifically into the utility room, as part of our planning. The issue is that the garage is located 1 meter (3 feet) away from the neighbor's property. If I remember correctly, it should be at least 3 meters (10 feet) away if there is direct access between the garage and the house. I have already checked the garage regulations for LSA but could not find a relevant clause.
Does anyone have experience with this topic and can provide more detailed information? Moving the garage further away to achieve 3 meters (10 feet) distance is not possible.
S
SebastianH.29 Sep 2020 08:08erazorlll schrieb:
It wasn’t meant negatively at all; the discussions here have helped me in one way or another. I just wanted to illustrate it for you visually.
Regarding your original point: you still have to open two doors—whether it’s the front door plus the gate, or two interior doors—so, in my view, you don’t really gain anything. You could even open the garage door from the inside with a button before putting on your shoes. And by the time you open the front door, the garage door is already open.
Now I’m curious, what does the floor plan on the upper floor look like? Here you go.
SebastianH. schrieb:
Since we're chatting anyway: For noise insulation reasons, would you plan to build all the walls downstairs from sand-lime brick? The wall between the kitchen and utility room is still a bit concerning to me (hanging cabinets, etc.).You can attach anything to sand-lime bricks! It is really very solid.
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SebastianH.29 Sep 2020 08:27Golfi90 schrieb:
You can attach anything to sand-lime bricks!
They are really very solid. Yes, that's why I asked. Currently, it is drywall.
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pagoni202029 Sep 2020 08:51Purely in terms of mounting options, drywall installation is easily possible; however, the relevant walls should be double-layered or otherwise reinforced for wall cabinets and similar fixtures. The issue of noise transmission depends on the living situation and personal sensitivity—what and at what level something becomes bothersome. Additionally, sound is transmitted not only through the wall itself. Using calcium silicate bricks works well with insulated drywall assemblies, too.
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SebastianH.29 Sep 2020 08:56pagoni2020 schrieb:
From the perspective of mounting options, drywall installation is easily feasible; however, the relevant surfaces should be double-layered or otherwise reinforced for hanging cabinets and similar fixtures.
The issue of noise transmission depends on your living situation and personal sensitivity regarding what and when noise becomes bothersome. Additionally, sound is transmitted not only through the walls.
Using calcium silicate blocks works well with insulated drywall too. Is calcium silicate block construction more expensive than the insulated drywall option you mentioned?
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pagoni202029 Sep 2020 09:23SebastianH. schrieb:
Is calcium silicate brick more expensive than the insulated drywall system you mentioned? I’m afraid I can’t give you a definite answer, as it also depends on labor costs and finding the right tradesperson. Both systems have their pros and cons, so I wouldn’t base the decision solely on price.
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