ᐅ KALLAX Converted into a Party Cooler – Issues with Condensation?

Created on: 17 Nov 2019 20:23
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banona
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banona
17 Nov 2019 20:23
Hello everyone,

I converted an IKEA KALLAX into a party fridge by installing a small compressor cooler. It actually works quite well, but I am now facing a persistent problem with condensation inside. The front doors and shelves regularly become quite damp, which is not only unpleasant but could also lead to mold growth if I don’t ventilate regularly.

I’m wondering if the condensation is mainly caused by temperature differences, insufficient insulation, or perhaps poor air circulation inside the KALLAX? And how could this issue be solved permanently without having to constantly ventilate or wipe it dry?

Do you have any experience with this kind of conversion or tips on how to avoid condensation in a DIY party fridge? I would appreciate any advice!
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mifra
17 Nov 2019 20:41
banona schrieb:
Condensation inside. Especially the front doors and the shelves are regularly quite damp

This often occurs in structures with insufficient insulation and a missing vapor barrier. The KALLAX is not designed for refrigeration applications, so it has thermal bridges where the interior air cools down and moisture condenses.

I recommend installing a good PE foam board as an additional insulation layer and a vapor barrier on the inside to prevent moisture from penetrating the wood. A small recirculation ventilation, for example with a fan, can help improve air circulation and distribute the moisture so it does not condense in specific spots.

Important: The door seals must close properly to prevent moist room air from entering the refrigerator. Also check whether the cooler itself is suitable for the existing installation situation.
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Laukau5
18 Nov 2019 08:19
Converting a KALLAX into a party cooler comes with some technical challenges, especially regarding condensation issues.

Here are some details:

1. Thermal insulation: The KALLAX is made of particleboard, which has relatively poor insulating properties. The thermal separation between a cool interior and a warmer exterior is therefore suboptimal, which promotes condensation.

2. Humidity and air circulation: The cooling unit creates cold surfaces where the warm, moist air from the room condenses. Without adequate air circulation, moist areas stagnate.

3. Vapor barriers: Without a vapor barrier, the wood absorbs moisture, which encourages mold growth.

Suggestions for improvement:

- Use at least 10-20 mm (0.4-0.8 inches) of XPS or PUR foam boards as insulation, covered with a foil vapor barrier.

- Install a small, quiet fan (12 V PC fan) for air circulation to better distribute the cold air.

- Check the door seals and add rubber gaskets if necessary to minimize air exchange.

- If possible, add an electric defrost system or at least a manual drainage to direct water away.

Have you tested in which ambient temperature and humidity conditions you are operating this conversion?
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banona
18 Nov 2019 09:52
Laukau5 schrieb:
Have you tested the ambient temperature and humidity conditions during your conversion?

Good question. I mostly use my party fridge in a well-heated living room at around 20-22°C (68-72°F) with a relative humidity of about 40-50%. I ventilate regularly, but not continuously.
mifra schrieb:
I recommend installing a PE foam board as an additional insulation layer

I’ve only insulated some areas with thin egg crate foam sheets, but no proper continuous insulation layer. The doors are original from KALLAX, so they don’t have any extra sealing or insulation.

How complex is it to install a vapor barrier? Do I need special membranes, or is aluminum foil/household cling film sufficient?

The cooler is a standard thermoelectric model that I screwed inside the cabinet. It’s difficult to seal completely because the cooling unit needs ventilation air.
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nera59
18 Nov 2019 11:16
To address the condensation issue in the KALLAX party cooler, you should pay attention to the following points:

1. Vapor barrier: Household plastic wrap or aluminum foil are not suitable vapor barriers. The best option is polyethylene (PE) films with a thickness greater than 0.2 mm (0.008 inches). These prevent moist indoor air from penetrating the wood.

2. Sealing: Make sure the film is sealed without gaps, especially at the edges and corners; otherwise, the barrier will not be effective.

3. Insulation: Use a good insulating material such as extruded polystyrene (XPS) or polyurethane foam boards (PUR). These materials are moisture-resistant and effective.

4. Cooler ventilation: Thermoelectric cooling modules require active airflow, often with a fan on the back (or outside). Ensure that the air is properly expelled and does not enter the interior space.

5. Interior circulation: A small internal fan can help mix cold and moist air to reduce condensation points.

6. Temperature control: If the cooler is overcooled without adequate airflow, condensation will increase.

Summary:
Vapor-retardant PE film + solid insulation + consistent sealing + controlled ventilation inside and outside = significantly less condensation.

If you want, I can give you tips on how to install the film properly.
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TANBLA
18 Nov 2019 17:34
banona schrieb:
Condensation mainly caused by temperature differences, insufficient insulation, or poor air circulation?

The main focus should be on improving insulation and air circulation. Condensation occurs when warm air comes into contact with cold surfaces. Better insulation and increased airflow help. Installing a simple fan and sealing properly is beneficial.