ᐅ Change in the size of roof windows after building permit approval
Created on: 27 Mar 2019 10:20
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chrisw81
Dear forum members,
We have planned to install four roof windows from Roto in our house (two on each eave side), all sized 65x118 cm (26x46 inches).
I recently visited friends who have similarly sized double casement windows, and the width seemed rather narrow to me.
So my question is... is it even possible to change the size after the building permit / planning permission has been granted? I assume the structural calculations won’t be a big issue, since we have a purlin roof, which should allow a width greater than the rafter spacing without much difficulty.
Now regarding the optimal size... Roto also offers widths of 74 cm (29 inches) and 94 cm (37 inches), and the height can go up to 140 cm (55 inches). I think the height of 118 cm (46 inches) is fine, but would 74 cm (29 inches) width look good, or is 94 cm (37 inches) better? Three of the double casement windows to change are in the rooms Kid1, Kid2, and the bathroom. It would certainly look better to have a more generous amount of natural light rather than a small opening, right? The rooms measure about 360 cm (12 feet) in length along the eave side.
In the hallway, where our fourth double casement window is, we want to install an additional double casement window next to the existing one to make the hallway brighter (this would be a kind of “twin installation,” called “Velux Duo” by the manufacturer).
What do you think about this?
Thanks so much in advance!
We have planned to install four roof windows from Roto in our house (two on each eave side), all sized 65x118 cm (26x46 inches).
I recently visited friends who have similarly sized double casement windows, and the width seemed rather narrow to me.
So my question is... is it even possible to change the size after the building permit / planning permission has been granted? I assume the structural calculations won’t be a big issue, since we have a purlin roof, which should allow a width greater than the rafter spacing without much difficulty.
Now regarding the optimal size... Roto also offers widths of 74 cm (29 inches) and 94 cm (37 inches), and the height can go up to 140 cm (55 inches). I think the height of 118 cm (46 inches) is fine, but would 74 cm (29 inches) width look good, or is 94 cm (37 inches) better? Three of the double casement windows to change are in the rooms Kid1, Kid2, and the bathroom. It would certainly look better to have a more generous amount of natural light rather than a small opening, right? The rooms measure about 360 cm (12 feet) in length along the eave side.
In the hallway, where our fourth double casement window is, we want to install an additional double casement window next to the existing one to make the hallway brighter (this would be a kind of “twin installation,” called “Velux Duo” by the manufacturer).
What do you think about this?
Thanks so much in advance!
11ant schrieb:
We believe we have rarely sold double casement windows without shading. On the south side, we have planned external roller blinds, electrically operated. But if you constantly keep the roller blind down because the large window overheats the room, it doesn’t really help. In winter, the large window is probably more useful since you need the sunlight.
11ant schrieb:
Actually 68 cm (27 inches), at 35° roof pitch. That’s correct, of course. The window length is 118 cm (46 inches). It can’t really be much larger since we have a knee wall of 1.25 m (4.1 feet). The height will end up somewhere between 2 and 2.2 m (6.6 and 7.2 feet).
chrisw81 schrieb:
It will end up somewhere between 2-2.2 m (6 ft 7 in - 7 ft 3 in) in height. Exactly, it ends at 2 m (6 ft 7 in) now, and I would prefer to go up to 2.20 m (7 ft 3 in) rather than consider increasing the width. Mainly because that is easier than changing the rafter spacing.
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11ant schrieb:
Exactly, it ends at 2 m (6.6 ft) now, and I would have preferred going up to 2.20 m (7.2 ft) rather than considering a wider span. Mainly because that’s easier than adjusting the rafter spacing.I agree with you, windows with a height of 1.4 m (4.6 ft) would also fit, provided the roof window starts directly at the bottom purlin. According to my calculation, that would be about 1.5 m (5 ft) in length up to a height of 2.2 m (7.2 ft) with a roof pitch of 38°.However, I’m not sure if that’s feasible or if it might look awkward inside when the roof window starts right at the sloping wall at the bottom. Usually, you leave a gap of 10-20 cm (4-8 inches), right? Then it would become quite tight again.
Attached is the cross-section of the house. It’s a very good idea to optimize the use of space.
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borderpuschl18 Apr 2019 14:24Hi,
maybe also consider the type of roof window (hinged or pivot). Depending on which one you choose, you should also think about whether an electric roof window might make sense, as you might need a rod or another tool to close it each time if you can’t reach it anymore.
maybe also consider the type of roof window (hinged or pivot). Depending on which one you choose, you should also think about whether an electric roof window might make sense, as you might need a rod or another tool to close it each time if you can’t reach it anymore.
borderpuschl schrieb:
Hi
maybe also consider the type (top-hung or pivot roof window). Depending on what you choose, you should also think about whether an electric roof window might make sense, as you may need a pole or another tool to close it each time if you can no longer reach it.That should not be a problem. It is a top-hung window (Roto R7) and opens from the bottom; the hinge is located in the upper third, so you have a nice large opening at the bottom.Similar topics