ᐅ Change in the size of roof windows after building permit approval
Created on: 27 Mar 2019 10:20
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chrisw81
Dear forum members,
We have planned to install four roof windows from Roto in our house (two on each eave side), all sized 65x118 cm (26x46 inches).
I recently visited friends who have similarly sized double casement windows, and the width seemed rather narrow to me.
So my question is... is it even possible to change the size after the building permit / planning permission has been granted? I assume the structural calculations won’t be a big issue, since we have a purlin roof, which should allow a width greater than the rafter spacing without much difficulty.
Now regarding the optimal size... Roto also offers widths of 74 cm (29 inches) and 94 cm (37 inches), and the height can go up to 140 cm (55 inches). I think the height of 118 cm (46 inches) is fine, but would 74 cm (29 inches) width look good, or is 94 cm (37 inches) better? Three of the double casement windows to change are in the rooms Kid1, Kid2, and the bathroom. It would certainly look better to have a more generous amount of natural light rather than a small opening, right? The rooms measure about 360 cm (12 feet) in length along the eave side.
In the hallway, where our fourth double casement window is, we want to install an additional double casement window next to the existing one to make the hallway brighter (this would be a kind of “twin installation,” called “Velux Duo” by the manufacturer).
What do you think about this?
Thanks so much in advance!
We have planned to install four roof windows from Roto in our house (two on each eave side), all sized 65x118 cm (26x46 inches).
I recently visited friends who have similarly sized double casement windows, and the width seemed rather narrow to me.
So my question is... is it even possible to change the size after the building permit / planning permission has been granted? I assume the structural calculations won’t be a big issue, since we have a purlin roof, which should allow a width greater than the rafter spacing without much difficulty.
Now regarding the optimal size... Roto also offers widths of 74 cm (29 inches) and 94 cm (37 inches), and the height can go up to 140 cm (55 inches). I think the height of 118 cm (46 inches) is fine, but would 74 cm (29 inches) width look good, or is 94 cm (37 inches) better? Three of the double casement windows to change are in the rooms Kid1, Kid2, and the bathroom. It would certainly look better to have a more generous amount of natural light rather than a small opening, right? The rooms measure about 360 cm (12 feet) in length along the eave side.
In the hallway, where our fourth double casement window is, we want to install an additional double casement window next to the existing one to make the hallway brighter (this would be a kind of “twin installation,” called “Velux Duo” by the manufacturer).
What do you think about this?
Thanks so much in advance!
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hampshire28 Mar 2019 15:53Just ask to be sure. You won’t need any changes, and the building officials will appreciate it. It could be useful later if you need their help again.
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pffreestyler29 Mar 2019 08:19The building authorities will have forgotten about you after just 5 minutes anyway. So save yourself the trip and simply change the windows ^^
pffreestyler schrieb:
The building officials must have forgotten about you after 5 minutes. So save yourself the trouble and just change the windows ^^ I spoke with the roofing company yesterday.
From their perspective, installing larger double casement windows is not a problem. Even without involving the house builder or the building authority (building permit / planning permission).
The issue is that they do not carry out the carpentry work on the roof structure, and a header beam modification is required for each wider window.
I have a fairly high knee wall of 1.25m (4 feet) and a purlin roof. To avoid installing the double casement windows too high, the lower header beam would have to be positioned quite close to the base purlin resting on the exterior wall at the upper floor.
Does anyone know if this could be a problem?
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Mottenhausen29 Mar 2019 13:40I can't imagine that this would be a problem. (However, I am neither a structural engineer nor a carpenter.) In the worst case, the intermediate rafter might rest additionally on the wall plate, which could be an aesthetic issue from the outside and might need to be concealed with a boxed-in eaves detail.
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hampshire29 Mar 2019 17:41pffreestyler schrieb:
But the building officials had forgotten about you after 5 minutes. It's all a matter of approach. If I want to be forgotten, I will be forgotten. If I want to be remembered positively, I will be remembered positively. You could say that I earn my living, among other things, by teaching people these skills.
Mottenhausen schrieb:
I can’t imagine this being a problem. (Though I’m neither a structural engineer nor a carpenter.) In the worst case, the jack rafter would rest additionally on the wall plate, which might be an aesthetic issue from the outside and would possibly need to be hidden with a boxed-in eaves detail. I will discuss this with the carpenter. I’m sure it can be managed.
Now about the optimal width… is 94 cm (37 inches) too wide for a height of 118 cm (46 inches)? In the bathroom (north side), I could see it working well, but the other two double casement windows are on the south side. There, it might only be beneficial in winter for more light, since in summer the exterior roller shutter would likely remain closed most of the time.
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