Hello
We are currently considering how to finish the walls in our new build.
The interior and exterior walls are made of sand-lime bricks, and a few non-load-bearing walls are made of gypsum concrete.
We want to design the walls so that we can avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. (These are unavoidable in new buildings.)
What options are available?
Applying a plaster finish on the walls
Paintable plaster, roller-applied plaster, or simply smoothing with a drywall finish to Q3/Q4 level and painting
Alternatively, wallpaper and painting
Non-woven wallpaper, non-woven "Raufaser" wallpaper, painter’s fleece
We want the walls to be either smooth or with a light to medium texture (we are still undecided)
It is important to us to avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. Non-woven wallpapers are the better choice because they cover small cracks and will only tear if large cracks appear.
The application should be relatively easy to carry out by amateurs.
We plan to have the painter do the stairwell and ground floor.
We want to do the upper floor, attic, and basement ourselves because we don’t have enough budget to have the painter do everything.
What would you recommend?
What is the difference between painter’s fleece and non-woven Raufaser wallpaper?
Is the only difference that painter’s fleece is smooth and Raufaser has a texture?
Non-woven wallpapers are definitely preferable to normal paper wallpapers, right?
Thank you for your help
We are currently considering how to finish the walls in our new build.
The interior and exterior walls are made of sand-lime bricks, and a few non-load-bearing walls are made of gypsum concrete.
We want to design the walls so that we can avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. (These are unavoidable in new buildings.)
What options are available?
Applying a plaster finish on the walls
Paintable plaster, roller-applied plaster, or simply smoothing with a drywall finish to Q3/Q4 level and painting
Alternatively, wallpaper and painting
Non-woven wallpaper, non-woven "Raufaser" wallpaper, painter’s fleece
We want the walls to be either smooth or with a light to medium texture (we are still undecided)
It is important to us to avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. Non-woven wallpapers are the better choice because they cover small cracks and will only tear if large cracks appear.
The application should be relatively easy to carry out by amateurs.
We plan to have the painter do the stairwell and ground floor.
We want to do the upper floor, attic, and basement ourselves because we don’t have enough budget to have the painter do everything.
What would you recommend?
What is the difference between painter’s fleece and non-woven Raufaser wallpaper?
Is the only difference that painter’s fleece is smooth and Raufaser has a texture?
Non-woven wallpapers are definitely preferable to normal paper wallpapers, right?
Thank you for your help
A
Allthewayup9 Jan 2023 15:09Tolentino schrieb:
@Allthewayup Well, at least I have always talked about combinations of materials and I claim that these are almost inevitable. These don’t even have to be settlement cracks. Differences in thermal expansion coefficients alone can cause cracks on the surface. That’s why I also recommend using painter’s fleece. It turns visible cracks into invisible ones.I would definitely treat a timber frame house with drywall the way you and xXMisterXx suggested, but not a monolithic wall in a solid house! A brick wall is a brick wall, a aerated concrete block (Ytong) wall is an aerated concrete block wall, and so on. Different material combinations only occur in floor and ceiling areas, where the floor is usually covered by screed. So why worry about the wall, for example at 1.5m (5 feet) height? Nobody mixes bricks and calcium silicate blocks in the middle of a wall, right?
Maybe I just lack the imagination or experience to share your concerns.
So no criticism intended in your direction :-)
G
Gooosee1599 Jan 2023 15:09@Allthewayup It’s probably due to the way I’m expressing myself.
I’m a complete beginner and likely used the wrong terms.
I meant cracks that are structurally completely harmless and can occur naturally during the drying process or due to material combinations, or whatever, and that are considered normal.
There are different types of painter’s fleece.
Painter’s fleece that is completely smooth,
or painter’s fleece with a slight texture or grain,
for example Erfurt Vliesfaser MAXX Sand 217, Erfurt Vliesfaser MAXX Aranit 212, or Erfurt Variovlies Sand.
The painter’s fleece with a slight texture should mask minor unevenness and defects better than the completely smooth painter’s fleece, right?
Which brand of painter’s fleece would you recommend? Are there differences between the brands?
I’m a complete beginner and likely used the wrong terms.
I meant cracks that are structurally completely harmless and can occur naturally during the drying process or due to material combinations, or whatever, and that are considered normal.
There are different types of painter’s fleece.
Painter’s fleece that is completely smooth,
or painter’s fleece with a slight texture or grain,
for example Erfurt Vliesfaser MAXX Sand 217, Erfurt Vliesfaser MAXX Aranit 212, or Erfurt Variovlies Sand.
The painter’s fleece with a slight texture should mask minor unevenness and defects better than the completely smooth painter’s fleece, right?
Which brand of painter’s fleece would you recommend? Are there differences between the brands?
My recommendation is more general, based on experience with plaster quality and the final result. Not necessarily because of cracks in the wall.
But you also have material combinations in solid construction at the ceilings. Concrete intermediate ceilings or drywall due to suspended beams, or on the upper floor up to the roof. Of course, a key coat would be beneficial in these cases, but not all plasterers apply it as standard.
But you also have material combinations in solid construction at the ceilings. Concrete intermediate ceilings or drywall due to suspended beams, or on the upper floor up to the roof. Of course, a key coat would be beneficial in these cases, but not all plasterers apply it as standard.
Gooosee159 schrieb:
The painting fleece with a slight texture should mask minor unevenness and defects better than the completely smooth painting fleece, right? In my opinion, the weight of the fleece is more important for dimples. For bumps and pimples, that doesn’t help much because the entire sheet then stretches. That’s why sanding is important.
Gooosee159 schrieb:
Which brand of painting fleece would you recommend? Are there differences between the brands? I have a smooth variovlies from Erfurt, a smooth fleece from Action, and a “standard fleece” from Pro[f]home mixed at my place. No noticeable differences. That’s why I wouldn’t choose the one from Erfurt (too expensive).
G
Gooosee1599 Jan 2023 15:33Okay, thanks. So the thickness of the material is the most important factor, and it's not necessarily required to choose high-quality brands?
StoTap painter’s fleece was recommended by painters in tutorial videos on YouTube. It is pre-primed painter’s fleece. What is the advantage of this? Is it just that you only need to apply one additional coat afterward? It costs about 2.50 per square meter (0.23 per square foot), so it’s quite expensive.
Then we could also use no-name painter’s fleece with a weight of 150 g/m² (4.4 oz/yd²), or maybe 130 g/m² (3.8 oz/yd²) or even heavier than 150 g/m²? Or is 150 g/m² exactly the right sweet spot?
I came across different terms when searching for painter’s fleece.
Painter’s fleece, renovation fleece, universal fleece, primer fleece — are these probably all the same thing? What is glass fleece?
StoTap painter’s fleece was recommended by painters in tutorial videos on YouTube. It is pre-primed painter’s fleece. What is the advantage of this? Is it just that you only need to apply one additional coat afterward? It costs about 2.50 per square meter (0.23 per square foot), so it’s quite expensive.
Then we could also use no-name painter’s fleece with a weight of 150 g/m² (4.4 oz/yd²), or maybe 130 g/m² (3.8 oz/yd²) or even heavier than 150 g/m²? Or is 150 g/m² exactly the right sweet spot?
I came across different terms when searching for painter’s fleece.
Painter’s fleece, renovation fleece, universal fleece, primer fleece — are these probably all the same thing? What is glass fleece?
Gooosee159 schrieb:
Ok, thanks. So the material thickness is the most important factor, and you don’t necessarily have to go for high-quality branded products?At least that’s been my experience during application and in the results up to about a year later. It’s possible that branded fleece lasts longer or is easier to remove.Gooosee159 schrieb:
StoTap painter’s fleece was recommended by painters in tutorial videos on YouTube. It’s pre-primed painter’s fleece. What’s the advantage? Just that you only have to apply one additional coat afterward? About $2.50 per square meter, also expensive.Probably, although I only needed one coat on most walls even with my cheap fleece. Sometimes I just applied a second coat because I had leftover paint.Gooosee159 schrieb:
Then we could also use no-name painter’s fleece with a weight of 150g, or would 130g or if possible heavier than 150g work? Or is 150g the exact sweet spot?Yes, in my opinion, 150g is just right. I haven’t tried 130g, but that might be sufficient too. Anything heavier got too expensive for me, and I can’t imagine it would be much better.Gooosee159 schrieb:
Painter’s fleece, renovation fleece, universal fleece, primer fleece—are these probably all the same? What is glass fleece?From my perspective (except glass fleece), it’s mostly marketing. Of course, there could be different formulations. Glass fleece should be glass fiber fleece wallpaper. Stay away from that. Almost everything said before does not apply there. It’s not vapor-permeable, you need special adhesive and, as far as I know, special paint. Although it is more durable, in my view it only makes sense for specific applications.Similar topics