ᐅ Engineered wood flooring mistakenly treated with penetrating oil
Created on: 26 Mar 2010 12:48
M
MatthiasHello,
I installed a very high-quality two-layer oak parquet floor in my apartment (5 mm (2 inches) wear layer). The parquet was pre-oiled, but I applied another coat of oil and then went over it with a floor buffer and a white pad. However, after several cold winter weeks during which the underfloor heating was running at full power, I felt that the floor was quite dry, so I bought what I thought was a maintenance oil to treat it again.
It turned out later that I had been sold an intake oil based on linseed oil, even though I had clearly explained what I intended to do. The oil was easy to apply but did not properly absorb into the parquet and instead remained on the surface. It hardened there, making many spots look as if they were varnished.
I had a flooring specialist come to take a look. He said it would be possible to treat it again with a pad, but this would create stains on the surface. He also mentioned that in many areas, the floor buffer and pad wouldn’t be effective at all.
I was advised to completely sand the floor down and then re-oil it wet-on-wet. However, this would cost several thousand euros and I don’t feel confident enough to do the sanding myself.
What would you recommend? Should I try using a pad again, perhaps a coarser, brown one? Do you have any other advice or experience?
Thank you and best regards,
Matthias
I installed a very high-quality two-layer oak parquet floor in my apartment (5 mm (2 inches) wear layer). The parquet was pre-oiled, but I applied another coat of oil and then went over it with a floor buffer and a white pad. However, after several cold winter weeks during which the underfloor heating was running at full power, I felt that the floor was quite dry, so I bought what I thought was a maintenance oil to treat it again.
It turned out later that I had been sold an intake oil based on linseed oil, even though I had clearly explained what I intended to do. The oil was easy to apply but did not properly absorb into the parquet and instead remained on the surface. It hardened there, making many spots look as if they were varnished.
I had a flooring specialist come to take a look. He said it would be possible to treat it again with a pad, but this would create stains on the surface. He also mentioned that in many areas, the floor buffer and pad wouldn’t be effective at all.
I was advised to completely sand the floor down and then re-oil it wet-on-wet. However, this would cost several thousand euros and I don’t feel confident enough to do the sanding myself.
What would you recommend? Should I try using a pad again, perhaps a coarser, brown one? Do you have any other advice or experience?
Thank you and best regards,
Matthias
Hey Matthias,
As an amateur, I’ve worked on an approximately 80m² (860 sq ft) pre-oiled solid oak plank floor from the manufacturer using a floor sanding machine with a rotating pad. The goal was to apply oil. After a short adjustment period with the machine, I started by setting the handle height a bit lower, just below waist level. Clean planks are essential. Apply oil to 5m² up to 10m² (54 to 108 sq ft), spread and work it in with a telescopic mop, wait at least 15 minutes (similar waiting time for each section), then remove excess oil with a squeegee—either reuse it or collect it. Next, use the floor sanding machine with a green pad, then thoroughly wipe off any remaining excess oil along the grain with a cotton cloth. This resulted in a beautifully oiled oak plank floor.
I used a green pad, as recommended by the manufacturer. It creates the “baby skin” effect. In my opinion, the white pad is only good for polishing and practicing with the floor sanding machine. In other words, the white pad does not work the oil into the floor at all. To compare, think of the green pad as the green side of a sponge—that’s basically what it is.
I believe this is the cause of your problem.
However, I can’t professionally advise how to proceed from here, as I’m not an expert.
Regards
MichiSW
As an amateur, I’ve worked on an approximately 80m² (860 sq ft) pre-oiled solid oak plank floor from the manufacturer using a floor sanding machine with a rotating pad. The goal was to apply oil. After a short adjustment period with the machine, I started by setting the handle height a bit lower, just below waist level. Clean planks are essential. Apply oil to 5m² up to 10m² (54 to 108 sq ft), spread and work it in with a telescopic mop, wait at least 15 minutes (similar waiting time for each section), then remove excess oil with a squeegee—either reuse it or collect it. Next, use the floor sanding machine with a green pad, then thoroughly wipe off any remaining excess oil along the grain with a cotton cloth. This resulted in a beautifully oiled oak plank floor.
I used a green pad, as recommended by the manufacturer. It creates the “baby skin” effect. In my opinion, the white pad is only good for polishing and practicing with the floor sanding machine. In other words, the white pad does not work the oil into the floor at all. To compare, think of the green pad as the green side of a sponge—that’s basically what it is.
I believe this is the cause of your problem.
However, I can’t professionally advise how to proceed from here, as I’m not an expert.
Regards
MichiSW
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