Hi everyone,
In preparation for my garden sprinkler system, I need to lay the hose underneath the patio. Which hose would you recommend for this?
I’m planning 2 pop-up sprinklers and have 4 bar (58 psi) pressure. My plan is to run the hose about 7 m (23 feet) under the patio, then connect it with a T-piece and from there run 2 more hoses to the sprinklers.
Brand?
Diameter/inches?
Is my plan feasible and practical?
In preparation for my garden sprinkler system, I need to lay the hose underneath the patio. Which hose would you recommend for this?
I’m planning 2 pop-up sprinklers and have 4 bar (58 psi) pressure. My plan is to run the hose about 7 m (23 feet) under the patio, then connect it with a T-piece and from there run 2 more hoses to the sprinklers.
Brand?
Diameter/inches?
Is my plan feasible and practical?
bergi schrieb:
whether the lawyer Bird pop-up sprinklers can also be connected to the Gardena installation pipe, or if lawyer Bird offers their own installation pipes.They all offer their own pipes... whether Gardena, Hunter, or Rainbird...
But in any case, it’s a standard PE potable water pipe with a diameter of 25mm (1 inch)... I used Marley’s when Gardena was out of stock, and there’s no noticeable difference since it’s basically the same pipe.
And Gardena may be cheap, etc., but what I really like about them are the fittings for the pipe... everything is installed in no time, and you only need a shovel and a sharp knife.
bergi schrieb:
If I want to connect the whole thing to Loxone, I’d also need an irrigation controller.Why? I assume you want to connect it to Loxone? Or is that connection just for show and the irrigation controller handles everything?
So either Loxone or an irrigation controller... using both makes no sense at all.
RobsonMKK schrieb:
The system is supposed to eventually run autonomously with weather data and soil moisture sensor.That won’t change anything about the system itself... it will still deliver the same results as now… which I would rate as average (grade 3) if we judge it like school grades.
bergi schrieb:
a landscaper recommended the lawyer Bird system to me!
That’s why I had actually already decided on it!I would go with Hunter... they are comparable to Rainbird, or use a mix of both, e.g., Hunter sprinklers with Hunter and Rainbird nozzles.
Or that’s how I’ll eventually do it (once the Gardena sprinklers finally give up).
- Standard pipe from the hardware store
- Fittings from Gardena
- Hunter sprinklers + Hunter and Rainbird nozzles (depending on the task)
- Valves from Hunter/Rainbird
- Connection box and water outlets etc. from Gardena
- Autonomous control with any irrigation system or custom-made solution in KNX
- Drip tubing from Hunter/Rainbird
We use a complete Gardena system. The piping and all the connectors are really good. It's easy and quick to lay, with the digging still being the most tedious part.
A pipe cutter is highly recommended. You can get one for under €10 (about $10) on Amazon, and you don’t have to cut the lines with a knife or something similar.
All the threads in the system are 3/4" and therefore compatible with just about any system, if necessary with an adapter. Of course, it is important that your system has pipe threads.
Our system has now gotten through its first winter without any issues, and everything works perfectly. Draining it on time and bringing in all non-frost-resistant parts helps a great deal.
We have two of the square sprinklers model OS140. Unfortunately, other brands rarely offer something like this.
A pipe cutter is highly recommended. You can get one for under €10 (about $10) on Amazon, and you don’t have to cut the lines with a knife or something similar.
All the threads in the system are 3/4" and therefore compatible with just about any system, if necessary with an adapter. Of course, it is important that your system has pipe threads.
Our system has now gotten through its first winter without any issues, and everything works perfectly. Draining it on time and bringing in all non-frost-resistant parts helps a great deal.
We have two of the square sprinklers model OS140. Unfortunately, other brands rarely offer something like this.
I have gathered the following:
Cornat irrigation system HDPE pipe in a coil, Ø 25 x 2.3 mm (1 inch x 0.09 inch), 25 m (82 feet)
Gardena 2771-20 sprinkler system T-piece, 25 mm (1 inch), Quick & Easy
Pop-up sprinklers:
Hunter PGP-04 ULTRA
or
Hunter pop-up sprinkler I-20-04-SS Ultra stainless steel riser
Would this work? Do I need anything else to connect to the pop-up sprinklers?
Regarding the Loxone control system: since I don’t have Loxone up and running yet (it should be installed fairly soon!), the water supply for the pop-up sprinklers would initially have to be turned on and off manually at the faucet. That shouldn’t be a problem, right?
Do I need a connection box or something similar? Which one would you recommend?
Do the pop-up sprinklers require power, or are they activated just by the water pressure?
Cornat irrigation system HDPE pipe in a coil, Ø 25 x 2.3 mm (1 inch x 0.09 inch), 25 m (82 feet)
Gardena 2771-20 sprinkler system T-piece, 25 mm (1 inch), Quick & Easy
Pop-up sprinklers:
Hunter PGP-04 ULTRA
or
Hunter pop-up sprinkler I-20-04-SS Ultra stainless steel riser
Would this work? Do I need anything else to connect to the pop-up sprinklers?
Regarding the Loxone control system: since I don’t have Loxone up and running yet (it should be installed fairly soon!), the water supply for the pop-up sprinklers would initially have to be turned on and off manually at the faucet. That shouldn’t be a problem, right?
Do I need a connection box or something similar? Which one would you recommend?
Do the pop-up sprinklers require power, or are they activated just by the water pressure?
Basically, everything is still missing. How are you going to connect the hose to the faucet, to the sprinkler, and how do you plan to use two sprinklers/ pop-up spray heads without a T connector?
As mentioned in a few posts above, we use everything from Gardena. Just take a look there. They clearly describe what components are available and what you’ll need. Of course, you need an adapter from the buried hose to connect to a hose for the faucet or pump. You will need T connectors, elbows, pipe couplings, fittings for the sprinklers, and most importantly, a way to drain the system for winter (frost protection). And while you’re at it, you might want to install additional outdoor water outlets, for example, to access water at other places in the garden (very useful). For this, a second water circuit is absolutely necessary! Otherwise, you would only be able to draw water there when the sprinkler is running. You also need to calculate the maximum flow rate of your water source (faucet). You can’t just connect 20 sprinklers to one faucet...
The sprinklers operate only with water pressure. Electricity is generally not required anywhere.
By the way, what ultimately determines the price are all the fittings, T connectors, and so on. Pipes and sprinklers might only be about 50% of the cost. The rest adds up quickly.
As mentioned in a few posts above, we use everything from Gardena. Just take a look there. They clearly describe what components are available and what you’ll need. Of course, you need an adapter from the buried hose to connect to a hose for the faucet or pump. You will need T connectors, elbows, pipe couplings, fittings for the sprinklers, and most importantly, a way to drain the system for winter (frost protection). And while you’re at it, you might want to install additional outdoor water outlets, for example, to access water at other places in the garden (very useful). For this, a second water circuit is absolutely necessary! Otherwise, you would only be able to draw water there when the sprinkler is running. You also need to calculate the maximum flow rate of your water source (faucet). You can’t just connect 20 sprinklers to one faucet...
The sprinklers operate only with water pressure. Electricity is generally not required anywhere.
By the way, what ultimately determines the price are all the fittings, T connectors, and so on. Pipes and sprinklers might only be about 50% of the cost. The rest adds up quickly.
@Payday: Thank you for your detailed response. Yes, I was already aware of all the T- and L-connectors. I basically have the entire Gardena system now, including the drainage valve.
Last night, I did a test on my faucet. The 10-liter (2.6 gallons) bucket was full to the brim after 35 seconds! Is that enough to run the square pop-up sprinkler?
Last night, I did a test on my faucet. The 10-liter (2.6 gallons) bucket was full to the brim after 35 seconds! Is that enough to run the square pop-up sprinkler?
The OS140 has a nominal flow rate of 560 liters per hour. With 35 seconds per 10-liter (2.6 gallons) bucket, you get about 17 liters per minute * 60 minutes = 1030 liters per hour.
So you can run nearly two of these sprinklers simultaneously. However, the connection would then be at its limit and might not throw as far. In the end, it depends on the pressure and, of course, the pipe length. If you want to use one such sprinkler and nothing else is running at the same time, it will work without problems with a pipe length of around 10-15 meters (33-50 feet).
Be sure to remember that the line must be drained for winter! There are basically two systems. The Gardena pressure switch opens without pressure in the line and lets the water escape. Its major drawback is that the device tends to clog relatively quickly and then constantly drains. If you turn off the faucet, the device will drain the entire line every time (so the line must be refilled at every start). Since Gardena products are unfortunately no longer as high quality as they used to be, you basically have to turn off the water every time. My hose once popped off directly from the faucet. Luckily I was outside; otherwise, the terrace would probably have needed renovation... Nowadays, I always turn everything off—it’s just safer.
The second method, which I believe I already explained above, is to install a cap/valve or even just the Gardena end cap at the end of the pipe. In autumn, you open or remove this, and the line drains. The advantage is that the line does not drain every time. Also, it won’t clog. The disadvantage is that you need some kind of "pit" lower than the buried pipe. For me, this is the inspection chamber of the rainwater infiltration system. Another disadvantage is that you must not forget to drain the line in autumn.
A theoretical third method would be to bury the line below the frost line, with pipes for the metalwork going vertically up. Still, at least the water in the vertical part would have to drain out...
P.S.: The pipe must, of course, have a continuous slope toward the outlet. Even a very slight slope of 1% or less is enough. The pipe must never go uphill. For 20 meters (66 feet) of length, I have about a 15 cm (6 inches) height difference. The pipes survived last winter’s frost well.
So you can run nearly two of these sprinklers simultaneously. However, the connection would then be at its limit and might not throw as far. In the end, it depends on the pressure and, of course, the pipe length. If you want to use one such sprinkler and nothing else is running at the same time, it will work without problems with a pipe length of around 10-15 meters (33-50 feet).
Be sure to remember that the line must be drained for winter! There are basically two systems. The Gardena pressure switch opens without pressure in the line and lets the water escape. Its major drawback is that the device tends to clog relatively quickly and then constantly drains. If you turn off the faucet, the device will drain the entire line every time (so the line must be refilled at every start). Since Gardena products are unfortunately no longer as high quality as they used to be, you basically have to turn off the water every time. My hose once popped off directly from the faucet. Luckily I was outside; otherwise, the terrace would probably have needed renovation... Nowadays, I always turn everything off—it’s just safer.
The second method, which I believe I already explained above, is to install a cap/valve or even just the Gardena end cap at the end of the pipe. In autumn, you open or remove this, and the line drains. The advantage is that the line does not drain every time. Also, it won’t clog. The disadvantage is that you need some kind of "pit" lower than the buried pipe. For me, this is the inspection chamber of the rainwater infiltration system. Another disadvantage is that you must not forget to drain the line in autumn.
A theoretical third method would be to bury the line below the frost line, with pipes for the metalwork going vertically up. Still, at least the water in the vertical part would have to drain out...
P.S.: The pipe must, of course, have a continuous slope toward the outlet. Even a very slight slope of 1% or less is enough. The pipe must never go uphill. For 20 meters (66 feet) of length, I have about a 15 cm (6 inches) height difference. The pipes survived last winter’s frost well.
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