H
hampshire2 Feb 2019 19:45Hello everyone,
We have the idea and space to install an inclined lift for loads of at least 150 kg (330 lbs). This would make it easier to transport items such as drinks, firewood, stones, soil, building materials for garden sheds, and plants to different garden levels and the kitchen entrance. At the same time, we would need less driveway construction.
The inclined lift would need to overcome a slope of 20-40% and have three intermediate stops, covering approximately 18 meters (59 feet) of vertical height on a straight, curve-free track. In our research, we keep coming across Göde.
Who has experience with something like this and can share their insights?
Does anyone know of other alternatives?
Thanks and best regards,
Max.
We have the idea and space to install an inclined lift for loads of at least 150 kg (330 lbs). This would make it easier to transport items such as drinks, firewood, stones, soil, building materials for garden sheds, and plants to different garden levels and the kitchen entrance. At the same time, we would need less driveway construction.
The inclined lift would need to overcome a slope of 20-40% and have three intermediate stops, covering approximately 18 meters (59 feet) of vertical height on a straight, curve-free track. In our research, we keep coming across Göde.
Who has experience with something like this and can share their insights?
Does anyone know of other alternatives?
Thanks and best regards,
Max.
I have no experience and couldn’t name any ready-made devices off the top of my head.
For the short term (during the construction phase), I would simply build a chute out of boards (two side by side, with half boards on each side as guides) and use a basic hand winch to move a kind of dolly (two boards screwed together in an L-shape) along the chute. At each station, there would be a switch (which an electrician should be able to put together within 2 hours).
In the long run, you could turn the chute into a small stream or waterfall, adding two inconspicuous aluminum rails on the sides. The “dolly” would then have two aluminum rails mounted underneath, perpendicular to the direction of travel, and connected to the side rails by linking pieces to keep it guided.
Alternatively, you could use a 500-millimeter (20-inch) diameter sewer pipe and cut openings at the stations. Later, this could be buried to hide the lift completely.
I definitely wouldn’t hang a “cable car” in the garden. The tension in the cable alone would keep me from relaxing calmly on the sun lounger.
For the short term (during the construction phase), I would simply build a chute out of boards (two side by side, with half boards on each side as guides) and use a basic hand winch to move a kind of dolly (two boards screwed together in an L-shape) along the chute. At each station, there would be a switch (which an electrician should be able to put together within 2 hours).
In the long run, you could turn the chute into a small stream or waterfall, adding two inconspicuous aluminum rails on the sides. The “dolly” would then have two aluminum rails mounted underneath, perpendicular to the direction of travel, and connected to the side rails by linking pieces to keep it guided.
Alternatively, you could use a 500-millimeter (20-inch) diameter sewer pipe and cut openings at the stations. Later, this could be buried to hide the lift completely.
I definitely wouldn’t hang a “cable car” in the garden. The tension in the cable alone would keep me from relaxing calmly on the sun lounger.
H
hampshire5 Feb 2019 00:12Thank you for the great idea. I looked up some materials online. The construction is not rocket science. DIY is an option, but it doesn’t seem significantly cheaper if it’s supposed to be durable. We’d rather avoid a stream or waterfall. There is enough space to keep the setup out of sight when sitting inside the house or on the terrace. Planting works just as well for that.
Listen to the child inside you and build a proper slide
But seriously: What kind of materials did you look up that you don’t see a significant saving in the end? The Geda lift you mentioned costs around €3,700 (including a 2m (6.5 ft) rail) in its basic version. Every additional meter of rail costs €100, which in your case likely adds another €2,300. And that’s just the lift itself, without the necessary terrain modification, which I’d cautiously estimate at another €10,000, and without installation of the whole system.
Another idea: place 80mm (3 inch) I-beams parallel on the slope and use a winch to run a “handcart.” The beams should cost no more than €30 per meter (€1,500), a decent winch around €500, and a good Fetra front-loading trolley for about €350 (which you can also use “upstairs”). Add roughly the same amount for some digging, supports, and welding, and you have, in my opinion, a practical, durable, and inconspicuous solution for under €5,000, on which you can even let Hot Wheels cars race.
But seriously: What kind of materials did you look up that you don’t see a significant saving in the end? The Geda lift you mentioned costs around €3,700 (including a 2m (6.5 ft) rail) in its basic version. Every additional meter of rail costs €100, which in your case likely adds another €2,300. And that’s just the lift itself, without the necessary terrain modification, which I’d cautiously estimate at another €10,000, and without installation of the whole system.
Another idea: place 80mm (3 inch) I-beams parallel on the slope and use a winch to run a “handcart.” The beams should cost no more than €30 per meter (€1,500), a decent winch around €500, and a good Fetra front-loading trolley for about €350 (which you can also use “upstairs”). Add roughly the same amount for some digging, supports, and welding, and you have, in my opinion, a practical, durable, and inconspicuous solution for under €5,000, on which you can even let Hot Wheels cars race.
H
hampshire5 Feb 2019 09:38Costs – I totally went overboard, Tim-Taylor style…
I was thinking of using “light” HEA beams. On top of that, a sled-roller setup that grips the beam from three sides so the cart can’t derail. At the same time, it should be resistant to dirt “on the running surface.” On this would be a “box” with adjustable sidewalls. It would probably easily handle a ton – perfect for improving the garden slope at the top with a dry-stone wall when you can’t drive up to it. Also great for bringing firewood cut from the forest behind the house to the storage area under the overhanging terrace.
Darn – caught fire again. Can you guess why my construction project is not staying within budget?
I was thinking of using “light” HEA beams. On top of that, a sled-roller setup that grips the beam from three sides so the cart can’t derail. At the same time, it should be resistant to dirt “on the running surface.” On this would be a “box” with adjustable sidewalls. It would probably easily handle a ton – perfect for improving the garden slope at the top with a dry-stone wall when you can’t drive up to it. Also great for bringing firewood cut from the forest behind the house to the storage area under the overhanging terrace.
Darn – caught fire again. Can you guess why my construction project is not staying within budget?
No way to guess that at all.
To handle the retaining wall, we are planning to install a small 1,000 kg (2,200 lbs) crane with a 5 m (16 ft) cable winch on top of the wall.
We can access the slope from both above and below. A chute or a lift would also be useful. That way, everything is always where you need it. Carrying anything over 2 or 3 meters (6.5 or 10 ft) on a 40° slope is no fun.
To handle the retaining wall, we are planning to install a small 1,000 kg (2,200 lbs) crane with a 5 m (16 ft) cable winch on top of the wall.
We can access the slope from both above and below. A chute or a lift would also be useful. That way, everything is always where you need it. Carrying anything over 2 or 3 meters (6.5 or 10 ft) on a 40° slope is no fun.
Similar topics