Hello everyone,
I would like to undertake a DIY project to widen a door opening. A structural calculation is available (steel lintel HEB), and according to the planner, I should be able to handle it alone (leap of faith *grin*). In any case, I need to expand a wall opening from 1 meter to 2 meters (3.3 feet to 6.6 feet) in width because I want to install a double-leaf door. Fortunately, the room is still in the shell stage, and the clear height of the existing opening is about 2.75 meters (9 feet).
My question now is, how far above the new door opening (or above floor level) should I position the lintel? Regarding plastering and possibly screwing the door frame into the lintel, I could imagine this might be problematic. (For fire protection reasons, it does not have to be covered!)
I would like to undertake a DIY project to widen a door opening. A structural calculation is available (steel lintel HEB), and according to the planner, I should be able to handle it alone (leap of faith *grin*). In any case, I need to expand a wall opening from 1 meter to 2 meters (3.3 feet to 6.6 feet) in width because I want to install a double-leaf door. Fortunately, the room is still in the shell stage, and the clear height of the existing opening is about 2.75 meters (9 feet).
My question now is, how far above the new door opening (or above floor level) should I position the lintel? Regarding plastering and possibly screwing the door frame into the lintel, I could imagine this might be problematic. (For fire protection reasons, it does not have to be covered!)
S
Simon-1897 Apr 2021 08:15Hello,
What type of frame profile are you planning to use? Corner frame or wrap-around frame?
Wrap-around frames are ordered to match the thickness of the masonry, so the frame is basically clamped and held in place.
Corner frames are usually anchored to the reveals with dowels. For your lintel (what is the calculated size of the HEB beam?), it could theoretically even be welded. Alternatively, you can make 3-4 holes on-site (depending on the pre-drilled holes of the frame) and securely screw it into the lintel. However, each manufacturer has slightly different specifications for this...
To cover the lintel, I would recommend welding a small angle bracket like 40*4mm (1.6*0.16 inches) or 50*5mm (2*0.2 inches) on the inside, both at the top and bottom. This way, you can screw drywall panels to it using self-tapping screws. Make sure to tightly fill the space with insulation beforehand!
Keep in mind, especially for a DIY project, that wide flange rolled profiles like HEA/HEB/HEM beams are quite heavy. With a door opening height of 2.75m (9 feet) and at least 30-40cm (12-16 inches) of support on each side, there will be a significant load. How are you planning to lift the lintel into place? Do you have a lifting device? According to the structural engineer, does the lintel only need to rest on the supports, or does it also have to be anchored? Do you have enough space for this?
What type of frame profile are you planning to use? Corner frame or wrap-around frame?
Wrap-around frames are ordered to match the thickness of the masonry, so the frame is basically clamped and held in place.
Corner frames are usually anchored to the reveals with dowels. For your lintel (what is the calculated size of the HEB beam?), it could theoretically even be welded. Alternatively, you can make 3-4 holes on-site (depending on the pre-drilled holes of the frame) and securely screw it into the lintel. However, each manufacturer has slightly different specifications for this...
To cover the lintel, I would recommend welding a small angle bracket like 40*4mm (1.6*0.16 inches) or 50*5mm (2*0.2 inches) on the inside, both at the top and bottom. This way, you can screw drywall panels to it using self-tapping screws. Make sure to tightly fill the space with insulation beforehand!
Keep in mind, especially for a DIY project, that wide flange rolled profiles like HEA/HEB/HEM beams are quite heavy. With a door opening height of 2.75m (9 feet) and at least 30-40cm (12-16 inches) of support on each side, there will be a significant load. How are you planning to lift the lintel into place? Do you have a lifting device? According to the structural engineer, does the lintel only need to rest on the supports, or does it also have to be anchored? Do you have enough space for this?
Hello Simon-189,
thank you very much for the extremely helpful tip about the brackets; that’s a really good idea. How would you proceed on the outside? (Tile wire or something similar?)
Regarding the type of door frame, I’m still not quite sure myself. Since it is an outbuilding (garage/workshop), I will probably choose the "simple" corner frame. Both doors are to be 2m x 2m (6 ft 6 in x 6 ft 6 in), double-leaf, multipurpose doors from H*******, with one of them being an external door.
The walls are made of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton blocks, the steel beam will be an HEB160, 2500mm (8 ft 2 in) long, primed, weighing about 70kg (154 lbs), resting on mortar on both left and right sides accordingly.
The current wall openings are 1m (3 ft 3 in) wide and completely open from rough floor level to rough ceiling. Therefore, I was unsure at what height above the door the steel lintel should be installed...
thank you very much for the extremely helpful tip about the brackets; that’s a really good idea. How would you proceed on the outside? (Tile wire or something similar?)
Regarding the type of door frame, I’m still not quite sure myself. Since it is an outbuilding (garage/workshop), I will probably choose the "simple" corner frame. Both doors are to be 2m x 2m (6 ft 6 in x 6 ft 6 in), double-leaf, multipurpose doors from H*******, with one of them being an external door.
The walls are made of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton blocks, the steel beam will be an HEB160, 2500mm (8 ft 2 in) long, primed, weighing about 70kg (154 lbs), resting on mortar on both left and right sides accordingly.
The current wall openings are 1m (3 ft 3 in) wide and completely open from rough floor level to rough ceiling. Therefore, I was unsure at what height above the door the steel lintel should be installed...
S
Simon-1897 Apr 2021 09:07Hello daytona,
The Hörmann doors have a lintel height of either 2.01 m (6 ft 7 in) or 2.125 m (6 ft 11.6 in) measured from the finished floor level, if I’m not mistaken. Custom doors with a disproportionate surcharge are possible. Alternatively, Köhler & Bandl could be considered as a manufacturer here. I think a corner frame will also be sufficient.
The outside is a good question. Basically, your lintel will probably sit centered on the masonry, so you’ll have about 40 mm (1.6 in) of space to bridge on each side. Will the door be installed on the inside or outside? For the exterior door, my first idea would also be a corner angle solution plus insulation, a plaster carrier board, and exterior render on top. The HEB160 steel beam could also be filled in with masonry, but I can’t say how practical or effective that is.
The 70 kg (154 lbs) weight can be lifted “relatively” easily with two strong people; it should be doable.
The Hörmann doors have a lintel height of either 2.01 m (6 ft 7 in) or 2.125 m (6 ft 11.6 in) measured from the finished floor level, if I’m not mistaken. Custom doors with a disproportionate surcharge are possible. Alternatively, Köhler & Bandl could be considered as a manufacturer here. I think a corner frame will also be sufficient.
The outside is a good question. Basically, your lintel will probably sit centered on the masonry, so you’ll have about 40 mm (1.6 in) of space to bridge on each side. Will the door be installed on the inside or outside? For the exterior door, my first idea would also be a corner angle solution plus insulation, a plaster carrier board, and exterior render on top. The HEB160 steel beam could also be filled in with masonry, but I can’t say how practical or effective that is.
The 70 kg (154 lbs) weight can be lifted “relatively” easily with two strong people; it should be doable.
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