ᐅ Installing Side Panels on an Ikea Pax Wardrobe

Hello,

my Pax wardrobe is positioned in the middle of a wall, with a gap of about 10 cm (4 inches) on each side between the wardrobe and the wall. I want to attach a cover panel in these gaps.

I can easily get and cut the wooden panel myself. But how do you attach it to the wardrobe (or otherwise)?

I’ve considered drilling two holes where wardrobes are normally screwed together, then attaching a batten on the outside and fixing the panel to that batten. However, the holes are quite far toward the front, which makes it a tight fit.

How have you done it?

Regards

Basically, it’s just as you described, but first screw the batten to the fascia panel, then attach the batten to the cabinet through the holes. This is also how filler strips are installed in kitchens.

If you’re wondering why not do it the other way around: if you screw the batten to the cabinet first, the fascia panel has to be screwed on from the front, which means the screws will be visible.

Wouldn’t it be more practical to have about 20cm (8 inches) on one side and install a hinged fascia panel there, so that space can be used for an ironing board, ladder, or something similar?

That would have been my idea as well, thanks Ikea-Expert.

Basically, just as you described, but first screw the batten to the trim and then attach the batten to the cabinet through the holes. That’s also how it’s done with cover strips in kitchens.
If you’re wondering why the order is different: if you screw the batten to the cabinet first, the trim has to be screwed on from the front, which means the screws will be visible.

To attach the screws from behind, you need a thicker trim. However, there is likely no space for this because the cabinet holes are too far forward. The roof batten itself also needs space, and if the trim is, say, 18mm (0.7 inches) thick, it will protrude at the front.

It would be nice if the trims could be clamped somehow, but I don’t know of any suitable components for that. You would need something that can be installed between the wall and the cabinet with rubber pads on the left and right sides to prevent damage to the cabinet, and which can be adjusted in width so it clamps firmly. Then the trim could be hooked onto this. But as mentioned, the specific components for this are missing...

Wouldn’t it be more practical to have 20cm (8 inches) on one side and install a hinged trim there so that space could be used for an ironing board, ladder, or similar?

One side is not possible because there is a TV connection there that I want to access by removing the trim. The other side is against an exterior wall, and I’d rather not place the cabinet directly against it. Also, I find it more visually appealing if the cabinet is centered.

According to the cabinet assembly instructions, the carcass should have at least 5cm (2 inches) of clearance from the wall on the sides, so positioning it centered is probably the best solution. Besides, I also think it looks better that way.

Here’s how I would do it: Have two pieces of back panel cut to size in the right color at your local DIY store. You might need to adjust them slightly if the walls aren’t perfectly straight. Back panels are about 3mm (1/8 inch) thick and are untreated on the back side. Then, get two wooden battens and glue them to the back panel. This will reinforce the whole structure and prevent it from bending over time.

To fix it in place, simply drill through the carcass walls from the inside where the shelf supports go, three holes per side should be enough. Then measure the height and depth of these holes relative to the front edge of the carcass and mark the corresponding positions on the battens on the back panels, then pre-drill the holes there. Now you can screw everything together, and you are done.

I hope this description was clear enough. If not, I can make a drawing...

Best regards,
Stefan

To be able to attach the screws from behind, you need a thicker cover panel. However, there is probably no space for this because the cabinet holes are positioned so far forward. The roof batten itself also needs space, and if the cover panel is, say, 18 mm (0.7 inches) thick, it will protrude at the front.

I don’t see that as a problem.
Here is a picture of a filler panel made from a 16 mm (0.6 inches) thick plinth panel, which is attached to the cabinet side using the grid holes. The holes in the Faktum cabinets also have the 28 mm (1.1 inches) spacing.

https://www.hausbau-forum.de/images/d137183db97fd1585d8f3201f140f2d0.jpg

It would also be nice if the panels could be clamped somehow, but I don’t know of any suitable components for that. You would need to mount something between the wall and the cabinet that has rubber pads on the left and right sides to prevent damage to the cabinet, and that can be adjusted in width to clamp it in place. Then the cover panel could be hung onto that somehow. But as I said, the specific components for this are missing...

You could simply clamp the strip by gluing window sealing tape (I-profile) to the side of the cover panel. The profile compensates for wall irregularities and ensures a sufficiently firm hold, provided you have mounted some kind of backing so it cannot be pushed through from behind.